WB o3 sensor problem
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 93
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From: boucherville, Quebec , Canada, Canada
Hi,
I need to know if someone have built this WB.
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htm
I have some problem with it and i did EVERYTHING on the site so maybe someone can help me?
Thanks a lot
Modified by civic1990si at 7:46 PM 5/10/2004
I need to know if someone have built this WB.
http://www.diy-wb.com/info.htm
I have some problem with it and i did EVERYTHING on the site so maybe someone can help me?
Thanks a lot
Modified by civic1990si at 7:46 PM 5/10/2004
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: boucherville, Quebec , Canada, Canada
i source the sensor in the downpipe, maybe 8 inch after the turbo.
The problem is when i power on the WB, i start the car and the Vout give me a value for maybe 30 sec and after it's always the same value = 2.5V.
Thanks a lot
The problem is when i power on the WB, i start the car and the Vout give me a value for maybe 30 sec and after it's always the same value = 2.5V.
Thanks a lot
It normally gives that value while the sensor is warming up. A DIY-WB 1.0 will give out 2.5v until the sensor is at operating temp.
Have you played around with resistors across U1, or any of that nonsense, to up the amperage going to the sensor's heater circuit?
Have you played around with resistors across U1, or any of that nonsense, to up the amperage going to the sensor's heater circuit?
on that note, your sensor may not be getting to operating temp. make sure the unit is getting enough voltage, and also make sure that the power wires to the unit as well as the heater wires to the sensor are of a large enough gauge to ensure the heater is getting the power that it needs. if you use too small of wires, it will never heat up.
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 93
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From: boucherville, Quebec , Canada, Canada
Thanks for the reply, i return on the site and see that i need to wait for the ready led before starting the car, i open the WB and the reday led never come on. So i need to change the resistance.
J DAVIS: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It normally gives that value while the sensor is warming up. A DIY-WB 1.0 will give out 2.5v until the sensor is at operating temp.
Have you played around with resistors across U1, or any of that nonsense, to up the amperage going to the sensor's heater circuit? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does i need to do something with u1 ????
Thanks a lot guys.
J DAVIS: <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It normally gives that value while the sensor is warming up. A DIY-WB 1.0 will give out 2.5v until the sensor is at operating temp.
Have you played around with resistors across U1, or any of that nonsense, to up the amperage going to the sensor's heater circuit? </TD></TR></TABLE>
Does i need to do something with u1 ????
Thanks a lot guys.
Start first by adding a ~39 ohm resistor across U1. This will give you an extra 75 mA directed towards the wideband heater circuit to help it reach operating temp.
You can also play around with 1 ohm 5 watt resistors (need to be the big 5 watt ones to dissipate a lot of heat) in parallel with R4 after you've upped the amperage via U1.
If I recall correctly, I probably don't, you should get around 1.00-1.25 volts across U1 once up to temp... it starts out higher and gradually falls to spec as the heater circuit warms up.
Your light should blink as the circuit warms up, will read ~4.00 volts output in free air.
You can also play around with 1 ohm 5 watt resistors (need to be the big 5 watt ones to dissipate a lot of heat) in parallel with R4 after you've upped the amperage via U1.
If I recall correctly, I probably don't, you should get around 1.00-1.25 volts across U1 once up to temp... it starts out higher and gradually falls to spec as the heater circuit warms up.
Your light should blink as the circuit warms up, will read ~4.00 volts output in free air.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 93
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From: boucherville, Quebec , Canada, Canada
OK
Right now, i have already a resistor 1 ohm 5% in R4. So what i need to do is install a ~ 39 ohm resistor across U1 But it's across U1 and another resistor or in the two jumper of U1???
Thanks
Right now, i have already a resistor 1 ohm 5% in R4. So what i need to do is install a ~ 39 ohm resistor across U1 But it's across U1 and another resistor or in the two jumper of U1???
Thanks
STFU DEVNULL!!!11 
Uhm, you run the resistor across U1 in parallel to the component, and the ones across R4 are addition to the one already there, and in parallel to the original one.

Uhm, you run the resistor across U1 in parallel to the component, and the ones across R4 are addition to the one already there, and in parallel to the original one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by J. Davis »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">STFU DEVNULL!!!11 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
transvestike

</TD></TR></TABLE>
transvestike
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