tron_

Can we get a sticky on this thread?

DarryCar

I like it! Great idea.

DarryCar

An update, and some bad and good news. Unfortunately I got myself a bad tank of gas! Took the ride to the track to see what kind of times I could put down. By the end of the night and a long ride home, the car started running like ****. Misfires, barely able to go from a stop, all kinds of problems. So I started taking things apart and what did I find......



This is my brand new, 20 day old fuel pump sock! If you notice earlier in this post, I put the brand new sock next to the 7-10 year old sock to compare the two. The old sock, just discolored. This new sock, ****ing black!

So here is what I noticed, my fuel press gauge on the rail was erratic. Without the idle changing it would move from 55psi all the way down to 46-47psi and wiggle or bounce around a lot like I was using a non fluid filled gauge. Pulled out the pump and found the "black sock" along with black sediment in tank. Put a new sock on and cleaned out my fuel filter (40 micron inline which was also clogged), and tried it out. Same results. Also noticed that my static fuel press would drop to 0 psi about 20 minutes after the car would sit.

Now at the very same time, I was having another issue that was driving me nuts which was that my factory coil was breaking down. So I can't really say that all my problems were coming from my fuel system debacle.

Here is the good news and some of you are going to like this. It so happens that I was a BMW mechanic for some seven years and I still have some good friends in the dealerships. BMW is now using the (almost) exact Walbro 400lph in most of their vehicles now. The only difference is a check valve that is not in the pump. This just means that in vehicles other than BMWs (and maybe some others) it will drop all fuel press as soon as the car (in this case a Honda) is turned off. No biggie cause as soon as I turn the key to the "on" position, I get full press in the rail. Oh ya, I put one of these "BMW" pumps in my car. It works great! The needle on the fuel press gauge holds steady (no bouncing, no crazy shifting 10psi) like it is supposed to.

I'm still working on my coil situation (upgrading to Hondata CPR), but just an FYI out there for anyone, BMW is using the Walbro 400lph all day every day. There is actually a recall on them which means they are throwing away perfectly good ones. Shhhhhh! Don't tell anyone. The one I dropped in my tank has 1000 miles on it and works better then the brand new one that I ran a bad tank of gas through. Hope this helps.

*Disclaimer* I aint one for talkin, so you aint heard that from me. No you haven't!

tron_

Thanks for the update! I will be installing my 400lph in a couple weeks and I'll be referencing this thread

darkhorizon

the BMW pump uses a different style pump wheel in the bottom of the pump that flows alot less than the walbro branded one. They still outflow a 255, but they are not the same as the walbro branded "400".

eg:R

I didn't notice that much different after The 400 pump install. My duty cycle is still high as if the 255 pump is still on after a couple adjustments.

DarryCar

Seems like the one I put in from the BMW is flowing just as well. Same tune and I am not leaning out at all.

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

Would this rewiring of the fuel pump be only recommended on this pump due to its size or can it be done to any other smaller pumps like the regular 255, aeromotive 340 and others in similar size?? Reason I'm asking is because I need a retune on my car. I have ther aeromotive 340 in my car right now. Would this rewiring help much in improving the performace of my pump or should the stock connectors hold up fine?

DarryCar

If you are referring to the hard wiring and relay for the fuel pump, it is recommended whenever you upgrade the fuel pump and when you start getting up into higher hp and rpm numbers. I did this upgrade while I was running my 255. There is a lot of technical scientific mumbo jumbo that goes into it. This is why I am just going to give you a link to a great write up explaining exactly what happens to your fuel pump with small wiring and at higher RPMs. Enjoy!

http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump-rewire.htm

scarvalho

i have one on my ek

i like

eg:R

I know a lot of you guy have these 400pump install to your vehicles, but have you notice any duty cycle improvement? Cause after this Upgrade my duty cycle was still high if not it didn't change. I also have a relay install too.

DarryCar

Did you change your rail press? If so, what do you have it set to and what was it before?

DarryCar

Just curious, where did you get that info from?

eg:R

I had it at 50psi before, now I have it at 60psi.

Axatax

EDIT: You answered my question above. Thx.

DarryCar

Did you do a retune after the install and raising the rail press? Here was my situation; I had my car tuned with the 255 when ambient temps were in the upper 80s, low 90s. After the summer and once it cooled down (50s, 60s degree temps), I was hitting 100% duty cycle at around 5500-6000 RPMs and about 22psi (I was tuned to 26psi). I would then begin to lean out, way out. With the cooler temps and possibly the change in E85 mix, the 255 could no longer keep up. That's why I moved to the 400. With the 400 I still hit 100% duty, but not until 7900 RPM and 25psi. That is what it is tuned for and it is only at 100% for a short period of time as I only rev to 8400 RPM with my B20. I am no where near leaning out and actually have a lot more room for boost and power. I have just about maxed out my turbo and I need to upgrade my I/C and piping. I am actually running quite rich and it is set up that way due to fact that I never know what kind of E85 mix I am going to get out of the pump, so it is a "safe" tune.

Not sure if that helps or not. Just my experience.

function>form

are you guys going to bigger return line when your installing the 400?, im installing a 400 now, my tuner said i would have to get rid of the stock return line it wouldnt return enough fuel so in going to a -6an fuel retune line

darkhorizon

Walbro (aka TI automotive) is based in my state. I know a test engineer that works at the walbro facility in Caro MI. I have personally been running these pumps for awhile now... almost 4 years. I had a "obtained" a prototype of the 400 almost 5 years ago now that went into a friends car. The production versions of the 400 use a different pump wheel (same motor) that is more suited for OEM flexfuel situations.... it just flows a bit less... its similar to most any of the other new "big" pumps out there.

I never had problems with stock regulators / return lines on any of my GM applications.

DarryCar

^^^That is interesting. I just got my Hondata CPR system installed and now I am running WAY rich. So even if it flows a little less, there is still plenty of room to play. Time for another retune!

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

Sorry to bump this back up, but I'm a bit lost ...

Ill be doing the rewire soon to my Civic and I'm lost on the " 86 to stock power wire that used to go into fuel pump connector"

Is that the green/yellow wire on the fuel pump harness ??

If so, does that mean I will cut and connect the green/yellow wire to the 86 on the relay??

DarryCar

Yup, it's the yellow/green wire that went to the pump connector. I just took the wire and pin out of the connector and plugged it onto pin 86 of the relay. I think it fit right on too.

Pullig

Where did u get female spades that fit your new bigger power wire. I want to Reuse the plastic plug that goes to the top hat

DarryCar

You know I don't remember. I wanna say that I found them in a O'reilly's or AutoZone. Thought I got it in the same place I got the relay. I do remember it was a little tricky to find and may have ended up at an electronics store like Fry's or something. Not sure where you are and what you have available to you. You'll find something with a little digging.

Black R

Why up the static pressure when installing the 400?

Or are you saying it bumped up (without any change to the fpr) just bc it's a higher flowing pump?

DarryCar

Using E85