I got my car on the dyno yesturday to get tuned, and ran into a big problem. The Vtec wont engage. the vtec solinoid is getting power and it clicks when tested but still wont engage. What else could be stoping the vtec from working? the balance shafts were removed if that makes any diffrence. the car is still at the shop. please help. thanks

 

1st thing i would always do is check the oil level and then go from there. also what motor is it

 

a quick search i found "The Official why vtec wont work thread"

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=830163

 

there is enough oil and the oil pressure is good.

thanks for the thread

 

you need to be at operating temp, have oilpressure, and power and ground at the solenoid.take away one of those and you lose vtec....get to work trouble shooting! like the guy above said...check your oil

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by japan4racing &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you need to be at operating temp, have oilpressure, and power and ground at the solenoid.take away one of those and you lose vtec....get to work trouble shooting! like the guy above said...check your oil</TD></TR></TABLE>

water temp is good, oil pressure is at 50 at wot, power and ground is good at the soilinoid, there are 5 quarts of oil in there too..

its an h22

 

damn, well, im not expert at this but if you have the operating temp, oilpressure and the solenoid is good have you tried swapping the pressure switch with a known good one?

 

no i havent, but do u think the stock oil pressure sensor is needed for the vtec or only the pressure switch?

the vtec always worked fine before, only now after my build did it take a crap

dam i hate my jewish luck!

 

r u throw n any CEL like coolant temp sensor? if no check engine lights then i guarantee you the person who put your head back together forgot to install the two dowel pins or oil orifice's towards the timing belt side of the head. these dowels lock the rocker shaft in place. if u dont have this u dont get vtec

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boosted k20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">r u throw n any CEL like coolant temp sensor? if no check engine lights then i guarantee you the person who put your head back together forgot to install the two dowel pins or oil orifice's towards the timing belt side of the head. these dowels lock the rocker shaft in place. if u dont have this u dont get vtec</TD></TR></TABLE>

No no cels for coolant temp sensor, im using an autometer coolant temp sensor that came with my guage, should i put the stock one back in? is there anyway to find out of those dowl pins arnt there without taking the head off?

 

yea, if you leave out an orifice it wont work. a freind of mine did that to his motor and had to take it all back apart. if vtec never worked after your build then that is most likely the prob. if everything works fine and you have no cel it has to be mechanical and the orifice is in fact a mechanical deal. check with you engine builder. to boostedk20 for logical thinking!!

 

if seriously that is the problem i will kill FSM

 

any other suggestion on what the problem might be

 

how far into the head do i have to go to, to see if the dowel pins or oil orifice's are there?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerdbygarrett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

water temp is good, oil pressure is at 50 at wot, power and ground is good at the soilinoid, there are 5 quarts of oil in there too..

its an h22</TD></TR></TABLE>

is it just me or is 5qts of oil not enough for an h22. mine takes around 6.

 

open valve cover, loosen timing belt, remove the 12 mm bolts and the 10mm bolts that hold the cam shaft cover. remove the cam caps on the end by the timing belt side and you should see two holes, one on the intake and one on the exhaust. there should be dowels or oil oriface's in the holes.

let me see if i can get a pic

 

looking at this pic, on the top left corner u will see a dowel with a hollow threaded hole (right next to where the 10mm and the 12mm bolts would go)

theres no need to pull out the head.


if those two orifices are not in u wont get VTEC. all u gotta do i put it back in. u might need to loosen the hex screws on the side of the head (by the VTEC solenoid and the dizzy) in order to get access to spin the rocker arm rod to line up the holes so the orifice can slide in and lock the rocker arm rod in place.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by powerdbygarrett &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if seriously that is the problem i will kill FSM</TD></TR></TABLE>

Already confirmed with Chris that is not the problem. We're keeping updates with him, and are concerned. FWIW, the original oil pump was re-used for the build even though we recommended using a new one soo......

 

water temp is good, oil pressure is at 50 at wot, power and ground is good at the soilinoid, there are 5 quarts of oil in there too..

50 psi seems kinda low, my gsr is @80psi@wot

 

this is gonna sound stupid but have you cleaned the screen filter on the gasket? on our s2000 powered sandrail, our vtec was clicking on/off, but wasnt engaging, kinda weird, looked it over, took it off, cleaned the dirty "plugged" screen on the gasket and it worked.