I also offer the jg303 regrinds but they aren't cheap as others.

 

It looks like the lobe is hitting the rocker?

What do I need to do in order to run regrinds safely? I'm very interested in doing so if I decide to stay non vtec.

 

Anticipating the vtec crossover point, and hearing the change in sound is quite nice also lol.

 

When looking at the LS heads

IF you ignore the proximity to the adjuster nut, which may be an illusion. The problem when you grind away the base circle you move the (cam/rocker) contact point farther back on the rocker. Anyone know what happens when you move the contact point closer to the pivot point on a lever? Anyone care to take a guess how this can be fixed?

You absolutely can change how a cam performs by grinding the base circle and re shaping the lobe but the gains are very limited when used like this.

 

I'm just going to voice my VTEC fanboy-ism real quick. I'd say VTEC is the way to go. It flows better and I just don't see any reason not to. You can make more power with less boost on the VTEC head. If it was the other way, wouldn't there be B16s with LS heads?

 

To the OP:
I rev to 8000k and my power starts to drop at 7900rpm, and i got my exhuast advanced(secret ammount) and intake gear tuned too(secret). the machineshop that did my regrinds builds 2000hp super boat engines and insane v8s so i felt pretty safe leting them do it RIGHT. been over 2 years on regrinds stock valve lash specs.

To Turbo-ls:
its ok, your forgiven, not everyone is a good reader. you obviously didnt get my point. kinda sad, but then again your running high 10s with 700whp so to me that says alot about your engineering and R&D. lol holy jesus you must suk dick at driving or really have the wrong setup. i hit a 6.966 eighth mile with 24.5 m&hs and didnt even make over 410 whp. thats a 10.9 pass for sure with 300whp less.

To the guy who said your better off getting vtec parts if you can get them cheaper, then i agree completly. but around here a gsr head(not even complete with paperwork costs like 500bucks at least) and an LS head can be bought for like 50bucks lol, sometimes even free on craigslist

 

pretty simple man. just have a really legit and experianced machine shop do it. someone with over 20 years of experiance and been in business strong. and not some young chump who dont know **** and probably just wants to take your money. dont spend money on jg303s, for that money just go vtec lol

 

YES you can in fact make more power with vtec, but im also assuming you guys are street racers/enthusiasts/ track people and not dyno queens. meaning you guys actualy want to be fast, and not sound fast but not go anywhere cuz your spining like a retard puting way more strain on engine.

 

lol ill dumb it down for you guys. what i meant is that with LS you can control the boost to lay the power down way better than you can with vtec. with 5psi a vtec engine will make 300whp which is simply too much for the streets in first gear and maybe even 2nd. With LS turbo, 5 psi will make like 200whp which WILL grip and GO. thats what i meant turbo ls. im sure you would agree. im not talking about slicks here man, im talking about a street car or your average person. Your average person does not have time to tow their car, jack it up, swap slicks, risk police trouble, and waste their thread instantly. the OP want 4-500whp, not 700. with ls turbo and the right turbo, 4-500 is easily attainable

 

That could be either case. That's a driver issue, not a VTEC vs. NON-VTEC issue.

 

I'm waiting for it to get a bit better with this explanation, but so far, its not going so well here... hmmm. I'll let you continue.

Nah.. No dice there.. that's a matter of torque in the lower powerband due to the longer stroke crank. Not VTEC vs. NON-VTEC related...This phenomenon occurs regardless.. and still get dicey in any gear. This explanation has nothing to do with the cylinder head flow of either engine platform, and looks more towards driver ability. We would race Turbo LS and VTEC side by side, and in the end, they both did well, with the VTEC cylinder head able to take more top end in the upper rpm band.

This is about powerband not power itself.

 

::

He still thinks the head is the reason you can control power better and put it to the ground more effeciently.

You do realize there are ways of having 0 pounds of boost in 1st gear if you TRULY wanted that. But im the guy that doesnt know what R&D is. Seting up a new race car is trial and error and making the right changes to benefit the system all together. I know the OP isnt talking about a 700hp. Why run a larger turbo and way more boost when you can take a vtec engine less boost smaller turbo have a much more volumetricly effecient engine and setup and broader powerband which will spank all up on any LS of the same hp that has a larger turbo and higher boost pressures to obtain the same power which in turn means turbo lag and even more of a head start for the vtec engine.

 

I'm enjoying this.

Ive decided to go vtec. I'm WTB the following parts

oil pressure switch
b16 intake manifold
gsr/b16 arp head studs
water pump

Thanks for the info guys

 

blox and ebay lsv kit sometimes don't do quality control as well on their dowel pins and i've had some customers complain about them. The blox customer did get new dowel pins shipped to him for free. Just heads up....

GE is what i'd go with.

 

DDTECH has found the limit with LS regrinds and the problem is you end up having the cam contacting the BACK (nearest it's pivot point) on the rocker arm, which causes rocker wear not to mention wearing the tip of the camshaft lobes... So this limits how aggressive they can be

with a new billet/cast blank you can have the lobe profile (or lobe separation) wherever you want it, this way you have the cam lobe contacting the rocker arm in the proper place...

I know the VTEC guys running huge cams still have an issue where the cam lobe contacts the lifter/rocker arm... WEB Cams noticed this and made new rocker arms out of a more durable, hardened material and it offers a much larger, and harder contact surface for the cam lobes and still retains the stock valve lash adjustment system

 

That 600 was terribly ridden, you beat the rider not the bike, and I wouldnt call it a real win either.

For 450whp just get cams / springs retainers and call it done.

 

^lol

you can have anything that is fast but if the driver/rider sucks then it isn't so fast anymore

 

real talk from non-vtec turbo guru FTW...... thread close. haha

 

Honestly, my build is not complicated and has the same components anyone would use on a VTEC build minus the VTEC. Sure it takes a bit more boost pressure and a larger turbo to be 'efficient', and you'll sacrifice some drivability down low (after all that is the purpose of low cam in VTEC), but it hasnt been hard to make power.

I think the issue is most LS builds are budget builds and people keep their log manifolds and stock intakes and start pushing high boost pressures only to hit a wall at 400whp. I netted ~50whp from switching to a Ramhorn on my LS setup. I just kept going because the car kept making power. It seems around 600whp the power has stopped climbing though hehe. But that's plenty

If your building a motor from the ground up and the cost difference is not so great, then there is not reason to go VTEC because it does have many benefits.

 

yea but how much torque do you make

 

 

How did switching to a ramhorn affect your torque curve?

Theres also one thing someone said that also I wanted to point out. Say it takes 20psi to hit 400 on ls, and 14 to hit 400 on a gsr, same turbo, manifold, etc. The engine doesnt care, since the combustion pressures will likely be close to the same.

Its really the turbo thatll thank you, not the engine. 400hp is 400hp regardless of boost.

You build pressure due to flow restrictions, thats why it takes more boost to net the same power on a non-vtec vs vtec head. Vtec heads flow better, thus, less restrictions, and less boost to net the same combustion pressure as non vtec

At least, I think thats how it works.

 

the cylinder pressures would be very different.

higher boost pressure means higher cylinder pressures, not to mention it changes the effective compression ratio of the motor.

400hp is 400hp regardless of how you get there but a setup that has to run more boost over another will always have higher cylinder pressures.

also turbo life wouldn't matter at 14psi or XXpsi. as long as the pressure produces airflow rates that are still within the effective service range of the compressor wheel. what would matter would be EGTs between the two setups. of course this all comes down to how the car is tuned but overly/excessively high EGTs would cause a turbo failure long before running a pressure ratio that is within the operating range of the turbo.

also *normally* higher pressure ratios also mean more torque, as you have higher cylinder pressures which means more force is exerted on the crank which equals a torque gain...

so both setups making 400hp, the one with a higher boost level to make 400 should theoretically make more torque (not at the rpm where the 400 was made *assuming 400 is peak hp* but before or after that point, because we all *should* know that hp is a function of torque and rpm)

 

Log manifold, Red line is 15lbs



Ramhorn 15lbs

 

Lighteningteg's change in power also deals with increased exhaust gas VOLUME from the ramhorn manifold to the turbine of the turbocharger (which also needs to be reasonably matched, or it won't matter). this is slightly different from exhaust VELOCITY that is shown with Quick4s and "shorty" equal length manifolds, in addition to the cylinder head flow).