blwn95civic

Well i just got my car tuned on wednesday at Blueridge Motorsports, Ls/v setup with built internals. The motor ran strong putting down 416whp at ~19psi tuned by Joseph Davis . While on the way home i had a oil fitting break where the oil pressure sending unit was mounted on the block. Noticed the problem right away when it happened so i didnt suffer any damage, lucky there. So i fixed that and relocated the oil pressure sending unit. Well i was driving around last night on 13lbs and ran it up to 7000 rpm and shifted to what i thought was 4th.... instead went to second (damn me)

Right when it revved to the moon i pushed in the clutch and the motor shut down. I pulled over pulled plugs and they all look good. The tops of the pistons look good good and and from looking down through the head see no signs of valve contact. With the valve cover off and plugs out all the valves look to be fine and are all moving correctly while turning the motor over on the starter.

With all the plugs pulled and turning the motor over there's no clicks or knocks so i believe the bottom end isnt hurt. At least hope so. Cyl 1 and 4 have compression still but 2 and 3 are dead as hell. Sounds like a valve is staying open when i try to turn the motor over. I didnt have a compression gauge so a friend held his thump over the spak plug wholes in the head to ghetto feel the compression. Oil looks good and coolant looks good.

I'll be pulling the head off today to check damage. But i have a question. Somebody told me that it could have just blown the headgasket between cyl 2-3 causing the pressure for that cylinder to go to the other side and out the intake valve. I'm pretty sure its bent valves but could this also happen and cause the same problem?

If its a bent valve what all lies ahead of me and should i replace all the valves just to be safe?

Damn thing ran good as hell and would spin third like it was nothing, didnt even get to drive it for 50 miles. But i know im the person to blame so try not to load the thread up with flaming comments


Modified by blwn95civic at 10:01 PM 3/5/2008


Modified by blwn95civic at 11:22 PM 3/27/2008

SOHC_MShue

it sounds like you probably just bent some valves. At least your spark plugs arent mangled and there are no visual signs of bad stuff in the valvetrain with the valvecover off. It couldn't have been but so bad.

HiProfile

IIRC Honda has a service bulleten out stating slightly bent valves can eventually weaken as they tweak when going onto/coming off the seat, and break. I'd definately check the valves over very good, as a snaped valve will usually ruin the pistons, head, and turbo.

I'd be curious what type of shift lever you're using? One reason I hate oem shifters is the slop that can cause 3-2 shift.

Kings Performance

Ooooh yes, I did and I have evidence!

Check out the video from Englishtown:

http://www.tunedbycft.com/index.php?p=videos


And I did it the day before the NHRA East coast Finals

1st - 2nd - 1st

Fernando @ CFT

nebulight

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2179581

blwn95civic

well just got the head off and found out the results. Sure enough the valves hit the pistons. The pistons dont look to be hit too hard.. barely made a mark on the pistons... you can see in the pics where they were hit. sorry for not taking up close pictures.





Here's a pic of the head. You can clearly see the exhaust valves on cyl 2 and 3 arent closed all the way. But the rest look to be fine even tho there seemed to be small valve marks on all 4 pistons.


now my question is what about the bottom end. I have eagle H beam rods and wiseco pistons.... should i go ahead and pull the block out and pull the rods and pistons or should they be fine?

Teglove2

I would def check all the bearings before you pull it apart and I would DEF replace all the valves. Sorry about your luck...man that sucks

blwn95civic

yea i'd better be safe than sorry... It also cracked a valve guide on cyl 2 and chipped a piece of it off on cyl 3. Im gonna pull the turbo off tomorrow and see if it went through or if it ruined the blades. Hopefully the turbo is still good. Just sucks like ***** cause i dont even got 50 miles on the turbo setup yet By changing the valves out i shouldnt have to retune should I? Im not too knowledgable in the tuning end haha

blinx9900

dont feel too bad i was once a victim of the 1-2-1 shift!!! yes to me, and that was on a CTR tranny

the head was fine but i did manage to toast all my rod and main bearings, this was on a stock b16b and i was NA at the time, but still going back into first from 2nd at 9000rpm is pretty nasty.

my advice is drop the oil pan, you will most likely find some bearing material in there, make sure to check out the inside of the oil pickup as there is a little screen in there that may be holding some metal shavings as well.



Modified by blinx9900 at 5:07 PM 2/29/2008

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blinx9900 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont feel too bad i was once a victim of the 1-2-1 shift!!! yes to me, and that was on a CTR tranny

the head was fine but i did manage to toast all my rod and main bearings, this was on a stock b16b and i was NA at the time, but still going back into first from 2nd at 9000rpm is pretty nasty.

my advice is drop the oil pan, you will most likely find some bearing material in there, make sure to check out the inside of the oil pickup as there is a little screen in there that may be holding some metal shavings as well.

well i guess its a learning experience.... but dont ya just feel so stupid afterwards haha i know i did.

I'm taking the head to my motor builder in the morning to go ahead and check everything and replace everything thats damaged. I dont feel like messing with it so i'll more than likely tow the car up to him and let him go over the bottom end also just to be on the safe side. But to the tuners reading this, Should i have to retune or will the tune still be up to par?

thanks for all the help


Modified by blinx9900 at 5:07 PM 2/29/2008</TD></TR></TABLE>

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i guess its a learning experience.... but dont ya just feel so stupid afterwards haha i know i did.

I'm taking the head to my motor builder in the morning to go ahead and check everything and replace everything thats damaged. I dont feel like messing with it so i'll more than likely tow the car up to him and let him go over the bottom end also just to be on the safe side. But to the tuners reading this, Should i have to retune or will the tune still be up to par?

thanks for all the help</TD></TR></TABLE>

stupid? i felt completely retarded! do you have any idea how hard you have to force the shifter to get back into first!! i thought it was my typical 3rd gear grind so i just forced it in with all my strength turned out i had a SOHC through out bearing on there, thanks to XTD for sending me the wrong part and myself for being too stupid and cheap to realize it. it certainly was a learning experience though.

jdm_vtec

wow.. I granny shift everytime and now I know why. (daily driver that is)

Turbo-charged

i'd be more worried about the rod bolts than the bearings. you usually hurt the rod bolts on the mis shift. everything seems fine so you put it back together, and next thing you know you shoot a rod out of the side of the block.

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

time for a t1 shifter kit next time around

blinx9900

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by paulzy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">time for a t1 shifter kit next time around </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive had my eye on those things for a while now!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-charged &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i'd be more worried about the rod bolts than the bearings. you usually hurt the rod bolts on the mis shift. everything seems fine so you put it back together, and next thing you know you shoot a rod out of the side of the block.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is that with stock rods or any rod?

ehh, i never had a rod problem after my 1-2-1 shift but my motor blew up 500miles later thanks to some fantastic camp1320 injector clips that fell apart

GSRswapandslow v2

trav-***??????????

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSRswapandslow v2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">trav-***??????????</TD></TR></TABLE>

dont know what that was about?? but ok...

Well im on the way to my engine builder now. Im taking him the head to re do the valves and what not. Later this week I'll pull the motor and take it to him to check the tolerences. I defenately dont wanna get it back together and go another 30 miles and have any type of problems.

So do i need a retune? Im not planing on changing anything on the setup unless something is out of wack, then i'll just replace it with the same part from before.

maddog20

everything being the same I would say nay on the retune.


But i would give JD a call maybe he can go for spin around the block to make sure everything looks good.

paulzy

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maddog20 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


But i would give JD a call maybe he can go for spin around the block to make sure everything looks good.</TD></TR></TABLE>

blwn95civic

Well after looking at the head he wasnt concerned at all about the bottom end... He said it looked as if the valves just barely tapped the pistons. So that makes me feel a little better. The head is being disassembled monday and then i'll get the phone call for money and parts haha. Im going to let him put the head back on and run the car a little bit before i pick it back up just to make sure there's no issues in the bottom end.

Also i pulled the exhaust off the turbo and checked the exhaust turbine. No chips scratches or any kind of signs of the piece of the retainer coming through the wheel so that makes me feel alot better.

So who's using the T1 shifter? I'd like to hear some ppl's input on this. I really dont want this to happen again, I'd rather tell ppl i got a shifter b/c i was afraid of missing a gear rather than actually doing it again and maybe something worse happen

0project dc2

iTrader: (1)

any more pics of the setup trav ??

blwn95civic

Here's some shots before going to get tuned... After i get the motor back and running again i'll post up the build thread with dyno graphs and the build list

Now have skunk2 cam gears... these are junk

Mag00n

what kind of manifold is that?

blwn95civic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what kind of manifold is that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Spoolin Performance quick 4

GSRswapandslow v2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by trav95civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">dont know what that was about?? but ok... </TD></TR></TABLE>


lol, wrong person! ask joey about trav-***. i saw 400whp+ and trav, and assumed


nice setup though, and nice power