Valve Train...
I have a question about what type of valves springs to use, with 00-01 ITR (CTR) cams. I plan to use this with a turbo setup down the road too and dont plan to do the work over. I looked around and havent found the specific to my question. I saw some guy with a set of Skunk2 valves and he has the Tuner and Pro series. I was going to get the Pro, but he said it not needed. SO I would like a second opionion....
Oh yea, what type of valves do you guys recommended too? (Also, plan to get a full port and polish and plan taking to 9k-10k RPM)
Modified by del_slow at 1:25 AM 1/31/2008
Oh yea, what type of valves do you guys recommended too? (Also, plan to get a full port and polish and plan taking to 9k-10k RPM)
Modified by del_slow at 1:25 AM 1/31/2008
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a question about what type of valves springs to use, with 00-01 ITR (CTR) cams. I plan to use this with a turbo setup down the road too and dont plan to do the work over. I looked around and havent found the specific to my question. I saw some guy with a set of Skunk2 valves and he has the Tuner and Pro series. I was going to get the Pro, but he said it not needed. SO I would like a second opionion....
Oh yea, what type of valves do you guys recommended too? (Also, plan to get a full port and polish)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use your stock valvetrain, if your keeping your stock redline. Other than that I would invest in springs/retainers.
Oh yea, what type of valves do you guys recommended too? (Also, plan to get a full port and polish)
</TD></TR></TABLE>
You can use your stock valvetrain, if your keeping your stock redline. Other than that I would invest in springs/retainers.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by red_crx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You can use your stock valvetrain, if your keeping your stock redline. Other than that I would invest in springs/retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have read the whole post, I said....TURBO Setup. Thanks for the info though.
You can use your stock valvetrain, if your keeping your stock redline. Other than that I would invest in springs/retainers.</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have read the whole post, I said....TURBO Setup. Thanks for the info though.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by del_slow »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
If you have read the whole post, I said....TURBO Setup. Thanks for the info though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?
If you have read the whole post, I said....TURBO Setup. Thanks for the info though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A wise man once told me that when dealing with boost- you have to consider that your boost pressure will make it harder for your intake valves to close. Running upgraded springs, even with a stock redline, is not a bad idea.
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
A wise man once told me that when dealing with boost- you have to consider that your boost pressure will make it harder for your intake valves to close. Running upgraded springs, even with a stock redline, is not a bad idea.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by clarkekent13 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
A wise man once told me that when dealing with boost- you have to consider that your boost pressure will make it harder for your intake valves to close. Running upgraded springs, even with a stock redline, is not a bad idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are very correct sir, but upon reading the OP's response to his comment, it was clear he didn't know what he was talking about.
While it is smart to upgrade the valve train with any modifications really, a mild build and boost you can run safely on a stock valve train.
A wise man once told me that when dealing with boost- you have to consider that your boost pressure will make it harder for your intake valves to close. Running upgraded springs, even with a stock redline, is not a bad idea.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You are very correct sir, but upon reading the OP's response to his comment, it was clear he didn't know what he was talking about.
While it is smart to upgrade the valve train with any modifications really, a mild build and boost you can run safely on a stock valve train.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by totsie7944 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
um... Added pressure on the backside of the valve during boost....thats all.
a 30mm valve has ~ 1.09563263 sq in of surface area
at 15lbs of boost thats taking 16.4344895lbs of pressure to hold the air back......
a 35mm valve (h22 intake) needs ~ 22.3691662lbs to hold the air back.
that extra 22lbs is taken from the seat pressure.... so you tell me if its important
what the hell does a turbo set-up have to do with stock redlines and valve train? You do know what a valve train does right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
um... Added pressure on the backside of the valve during boost....thats all.
a 30mm valve has ~ 1.09563263 sq in of surface area
at 15lbs of boost thats taking 16.4344895lbs of pressure to hold the air back......
a 35mm valve (h22 intake) needs ~ 22.3691662lbs to hold the air back.
that extra 22lbs is taken from the seat pressure.... so you tell me if its important
So with all that being said, this goes back to my orginial question.....if I order a set of valve springs which would you guys recommended....I dont want to go all out with the top-end of one manufactors and knowing I could have use the lesser one for the same results. ie...Skunk2 Pro Series or Tuner
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pyrorocketeer »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
um... Added pressure on the backside of the valve during boost....thats all.
a 30mm valve has ~ 1.09563263 sq in of surface area
at 15lbs of boost thats taking 16.4344895lbs of pressure to hold the air back......
a 35mm valve (h22 intake) needs ~ 22.3691662lbs to hold the air back.
that extra 22lbs is taken from the seat pressure.... so you tell me if its important</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you're revving to 8000rpm, how long is your valve closed for?
um... Added pressure on the backside of the valve during boost....thats all.
a 30mm valve has ~ 1.09563263 sq in of surface area
at 15lbs of boost thats taking 16.4344895lbs of pressure to hold the air back......
a 35mm valve (h22 intake) needs ~ 22.3691662lbs to hold the air back.
that extra 22lbs is taken from the seat pressure.... so you tell me if its important</TD></TR></TABLE>
When you're revving to 8000rpm, how long is your valve closed for?
I was seen a lot of people using Ferrea Valves, and not a many complainces either and they run pretty cheap too. But what type of valves springs, I like the Skunk2 but dont know what to choice, Pro or Tuner?
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