Just a quick question, when I drill the holes for the fitting do I stop before going through the baffling ? Also what size fitting should I use, and is the any certain place I have to drill the holes........
thanks in advance

 

I would stop before the baffling and I think 10 an or 12 an is sufficient?Correct me if i am wrong

 

-10 is fine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by siblues &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would stop before the baffling and I think 10 an or 12 an is sufficient?Correct me if i am wrong </TD></TR></TABLE>

you are.


bigger the better... this way you attempt to get the "air" rather than the "oil"

we run 2 -16's on the front and 1 -12 on the rear side.





if anyone needs any weld bungs i have a few left over from this. pm me.

 

They need to be tig welded correct?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HighRevn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They need to be tig welded correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>

they dont "need" to be. you can also use a bulkhead type fitting.

the bungs i have need to be welded on.

 

what is the purpose of that many holes..

thats enough bungs to flow like 200 cfm.

why doesnt the stock vent work?

 

crankcase pressure relief...


the 2 front ones are the main ones im worried about. the rear -12 is just for this lame vacum pump that doesnt do ****. im not pulling vacum from an oil drain back hole in the engine. it gets way to much oil in the catch cans using that method.


Modified by dturbocivic at 1:06 PM 10/15/2006

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

bulkhead type fitting.

.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Whats exactly is that?

 

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...25727

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs...09746

 

so bulkhead fittings are weldless fittings?

I have a JDM type r valve cover I dont want to repowdercoat from welding. So i just drill, tap, and bulkhead fitting?

 

youcan use a bulk head, but it doesnt seal perfect cause the valve cover isnt very thick to get a good thread on

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cubish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">youcan use a bulk head, but it doesnt seal perfect cause the valve cover isnt very thick to get a good thread on</TD></TR></TABLE>

If they dont leak then thats the ones I'm going to use. If they seal and dont leak then theyre good to go. I might get a little bigger/better o-ring tho.

 

would a bulk head fitting be a bad idea to use on an oil pan for the oil return?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">would a bulk head fitting be a bad idea to use on an oil pan for the oil return? </TD></TR></TABLE>
yes the oil pan is way to thin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dturbocivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">crankcase pressure relief...


the 2 front ones are the main ones im worried about. the rear -12 is just for this lame vacum pump that doesnt do ****. im not pulling vacum from an oil drain back hole in the engine. it gets way to much oil in the catch cans using that method.


Modified by dturbocivic at 1:06 PM 10/15/2006</TD></TR></TABLE>

i am still confused.. diagram of why this is beneficial?

 

WHAT! no, it is not too thin. please don't post if you don't know what you are talking about. I guarantee you'll get on my bad side!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_ex_95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes the oil pan is way to thin. </TD></TR></TABLE>

The only problem you may run into in using a bulkhead fitting is finding a flat spot so the nut can be tightened and the gasket to create a seal. That andlocking the nut down so it doesn't back off.

 

what if you put one of those fittings on and JB weld the **** out of the outside of the fitting? or should you not ghetto rig something like an oil line?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Flexin5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what if you put one of those fittings on and JB weld the **** out of the outside of the fitting? or should you not ghetto rig something like an oil line? </TD></TR></TABLE>

ive seen it work for people in the past.(and not leak)

 

Here's mine:

 

^ stealth! Lines go to the black box where the old battery location was?

 

i wouldn't drill unless you have something to tap machine threads because most if not all fittings are machine thread. best bet is to get it welded, will cost a bit more but you won't have to worry about anthing coming loose or leaking. drill behind baffled parts of valve cover

 

I dont think if you use the bulkhead fittings you can keep the baffle?I could be wrong.

 

you need the baffling to prevent oil from filling up the vents.