vafc with check valves throws code at 12psi? map sensor
ok first i will give you the setup
.....
b16a2 resleeved (aebs) bore 84mm
cp 9.7-1 pistons
aebs typhoon intake mani
bbk 70mm throttle body
crower valves, springs, and retainers
msd sci-l
drag gen 3 turbo kit
greddy profec b boost controller
Vafc...
and more but hopefully i gave the relevant parts
the problem, i have about 7 check valves and when i hit about 12-13 psi in 3rd gear i throw code 3 (map sensor). i have read that you shouldn't need any but when i get rid of them it goes of almost imediatly with boost. i can't really afford hondata at this point so what can i do? if you need more info on the car let me know.
.....
b16a2 resleeved (aebs) bore 84mm
cp 9.7-1 pistons
aebs typhoon intake mani
bbk 70mm throttle body
crower valves, springs, and retainers
msd sci-l
drag gen 3 turbo kit
greddy profec b boost controller
Vafc...
and more but hopefully i gave the relevant parts
the problem, i have about 7 check valves and when i hit about 12-13 psi in 3rd gear i throw code 3 (map sensor). i have read that you shouldn't need any but when i get rid of them it goes of almost imediatly with boost. i can't really afford hondata at this point so what can i do? if you need more info on the car let me know.
Convert to Uberdata. You will have to get a 2 or 3 bar MAP sensor in order for the computer to see the boost and run safely and correctly. The setup is very inexpensive and I can make a basemap for you to get the car running (probably better than it is now
).
Phil
). Phil
right now i am puting the motor back together after throwing a rod bearing for the second time so i have no money and i want to make it work at 14psi if possible the car should be done this weekend cause i just got my new rings today
Trending Topics
whats your air correction -35 to -40? your probaly throwing a low voltage code.
and for a word of advice. uberdata is free, the kit cost five bucks and if you can solder it takes 15mins to set the ecu up. all you have to do is find some one that can burn the chip for you like...hondaguyef. as for a 3 bar, go to the junk yard and take one off a caddillac (mine come off a 88 seville).
vafc isnt a good source of management, if you want to know why do a search and youll see what I mean. I personaly run hondata...but uberdata is a good program also, especially since its free.
and for a word of advice. uberdata is free, the kit cost five bucks and if you can solder it takes 15mins to set the ecu up. all you have to do is find some one that can burn the chip for you like...hondaguyef. as for a 3 bar, go to the junk yard and take one off a caddillac (mine come off a 88 seville).
vafc isnt a good source of management, if you want to know why do a search and youll see what I mean. I personaly run hondata...but uberdata is a good program also, especially since its free.
i will look into that further. see the thing is also i am very persistent. so i want to know how some people make it work correctly. i would like to know. even if i don't use it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cls1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your using a stock 1.75 bar honda map you not going to get more than 11 with out throwing that code.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes but, he can limit the amount of boost the MAP sensor see's w/ the check valves or a missing link.
That VAFC hack will only take you so far. To <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colt45turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> make it work correctly</TD></TR></TABLE> you'll have to get some real management. Click HERE to learn how
.
Phil
Yes but, he can limit the amount of boost the MAP sensor see's w/ the check valves or a missing link.
That VAFC hack will only take you so far. To <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colt45turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> make it work correctly</TD></TR></TABLE> you'll have to get some real management. Click HERE to learn how
.Phil
save time and money and switch to uberdata. Piggybacks suck. You've spent gobs of money making a nice setup and you'll proabably gain 10 ponies for $200 it takes to get tuned w/uberdata
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Yes but, he can limit the amount of boost the MAP sensor see's w/ the check valves or a missing link.
That VAFC hack will only take you so far. To you'll have to get some real management. Click HERE to learn how
.
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
check valves and missing links are a primitive way to tune with and with a sleeved block ect to cheap out on the most important part is a waste of momey in my opinion
im not gonna start another gooberdata vs thread because it seems that every one on ht thinks that if its not gooberdata it sucks. the only thing i will say is that i would run it if you have the time to work through all the issues in the software and you know how to tune <not just tune to a good afr and thats it> i just wont run it on any cars i build but thats just my opinion.
Yes but, he can limit the amount of boost the MAP sensor see's w/ the check valves or a missing link.
That VAFC hack will only take you so far. To you'll have to get some real management. Click HERE to learn how
.Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
check valves and missing links are a primitive way to tune with and with a sleeved block ect to cheap out on the most important part is a waste of momey in my opinion
im not gonna start another gooberdata vs thread because it seems that every one on ht thinks that if its not gooberdata it sucks. the only thing i will say is that i would run it if you have the time to work through all the issues in the software and you know how to tune <not just tune to a good afr and thats it> i just wont run it on any cars i build but thats just my opinion.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cls1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
check valves and missing links are a primitive way to tune</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are not a way to tune at all IMO! I was just stating that those are what he is using. What "issues in the software" would you be speaking of? What other management would you suggest for him within his price range?
Phil
check valves and missing links are a primitive way to tune</TD></TR></TABLE>
They are not a way to tune at all IMO! I was just stating that those are what he is using. What "issues in the software" would you be speaking of? What other management would you suggest for him within his price range?
Phil
im not sure if the afc will work right with the check valves. as it manipulates the map signal going to the ecu. if u bleed it off using a check valve, it's gonna throw it off balance. my bet would be to get big enough injectors so tht u can turn the trim down to -40 to -35, and remove the check valves...u shouldnt have a problem running 12psi, but no more than tht.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaguyef »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
They are not a way to tune at all IMO! I was just stating that those are what he is using. What "issues in the software" would you be speaking of? What other management would you suggest for him within his price range?
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
there are plenty of bugs in the 6 thousand versions of uber that are out there you just need to work them out, and if he cant afford the hondata there is no other way but like i said im not gonna turn this into a uber vs XXX which seems to be what every "what management should i use" thread becomes
They are not a way to tune at all IMO! I was just stating that those are what he is using. What "issues in the software" would you be speaking of? What other management would you suggest for him within his price range?
Phil</TD></TR></TABLE>
there are plenty of bugs in the 6 thousand versions of uber that are out there you just need to work them out, and if he cant afford the hondata there is no other way but like i said im not gonna turn this into a uber vs XXX which seems to be what every "what management should i use" thread becomes
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by colt45turbo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok first i will give you the setup
.....
the problem, i have about 7 check valves and when i hit about 12-13 psi in 3rd gear i throw code 3 (map sensor). i have read that you shouldn't need any but when i get rid of them it goes of almost imediatly with boost. i can't really afford hondata at this point so what can i do? if you need more info on the car let me know. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Put on more check valves or get a missing link.
.....
the problem, i have about 7 check valves and when i hit about 12-13 psi in 3rd gear i throw code 3 (map sensor). i have read that you shouldn't need any but when i get rid of them it goes of almost imediatly with boost. i can't really afford hondata at this point so what can i do? if you need more info on the car let me know. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Put on more check valves or get a missing link.
oh my lord. that engine is gonna go. VAFC hacks suck b/c they dont take TIMING into consideration. Timing maps are not like fuel maps.
Its throwing a code because your stock map sensor cant see more than ~11.5psi under full load. Isnt this common knowledge?
why would you build that motor and then run a damn hack? Besides for the money you spent on that afc you could probably have uberdata running in your car for less.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b18cls1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if your using a stock 1.75 bar honda map you not going to get more than 11 with out throwing that code.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Perhaps you mean .75 bar?
Perhaps you mean .75 bar?
i had the vafc long before i built the motor. i realize that the vafc is not the wisest of choices for engine management, but when the machine shop that i was using put my motor together they didn't do it rght. i have had two replace my rod bearings and crank twice since having the sleeves, pistons, and rods done. the first time it went out i had only about 4-5 thousand miles on it, and the bearing went out on number 4 so i sent it back to them. which it then cost me a thousand to fix that. now just two months ago after only putting 1500-2000 miles on it and i might add changing the oil evry 400-500 miles. i threw another rod bearing. so i said screw them and took it to a local machine shop and had it fixed(crank resurfaced and rods rehoned. so i HAVE NO MONEY. if i had the money i would spend it on it but i dont. trust me i know that there is better managment for the motor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mag00n »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its throwing a code because your stock map sensor cant see more than ~11.5psi under full load. Isnt this common knowledge?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Actually it means it will throw NO codes at any pressure above the max reading of the sensor provided the output to the ecu is scaled to atmospheric for the max reading of the sensor. Obviously he's coding because the ECU is still seeing boost at some point.
Actually it means it will throw NO codes at any pressure above the max reading of the sensor provided the output to the ecu is scaled to atmospheric for the max reading of the sensor. Obviously he's coding because the ECU is still seeing boost at some point.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TheShodan »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Perhaps you mean .75 bar?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, He meant 1.75 BAR
Phil
Perhaps you mean .75 bar?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, He meant 1.75 BAR
Phil



