Blind-Fashion

Ok, I got cheap and bought napa bearings to see how they would spec out. .0015 all the way across ( all 5 mains ) I'm just wondering if these are ok to use. the ones i have are teflon coated. I honestly dont see why this would be a problem, i have rebuilt many engines but always used honda bearings, so, if someone has used them or has had friends that have, could you tell me how that went.. and if you have not, don't reply, i dont want your guess.

Thanks alot

Josh

Blind-Fashion

oh yes, and this block is sleeved by GE and has plans for 450+ hp.

RyanEJ8

I don't think they are a tri-metal bearing like the Honda or ACL. You could've gone with the ACL, they can be had for a GOOD price.

Rod.

acl's are about 99 bucks now.

m R g S r

If they are teflon coated (which you said they were) AND tri metal, then they should be fine. Just try contacting the manufacturer and see if they are tri metal.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Honestly Im sure they are perfectly fine. How do any of us know that Tri-metal is the best? For all we know they could be the worst. Many of us simply regurgitate what we've read on here. I think clearances are more important.

As long as the clearances are within spec, which .0015" is then your good to go!

Arturbo

"Imatation is the highest form of flattery but it has no place in your honda."

USDM 4G VTEC

last time i bought bearings from NAPA for my D16Z6 they carried CLEVITE
clevite is a good brand of bearings...
even used by nascar and stuff

ido believe they are coated wit something...... since they look kinda greyish/withish

RyanEJ8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Honestly Im sure they are perfectly fine. How do any of us know that Tri-metal is the best? For all we know they could be the worst. Many of us simply regurgitate what we've read on here. I think clearances are more important.

As long as the clearances are within spec, which .0015" is then your good to go!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Now you you are regurgitating information that you've read on Honda-Tech. What makes you so sure that stock clearances are best for a motor that is NOT stock? Do you use stock piston to wall clearance or ring gap clearances on your engines? Probably not if you're using forged pistons.

Redwidow

I used cheap also, (ROCK from BAP imports.) This is my second time using them I have had no problems for my rods or mains...
Blind You should be good, I am...

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Ryan, my intention was not to attack you so dont feel that way.

I am certainly not regurgitating specs without being knowledgeable on the subject. When I built my engine I was not an expert (nor am I now) so I talked to 3 well known engine builders, Earl, Rocket, and Boosted-Hybrid and that is where I got my information. All 3 recommend staying within the factory clearances. However they all prefer clearances on the looser end of the tolerance for extra thick layer of oil.

I learned from their experience and put it into practice with my own engine which I just built which is now running without problems.

http://www.boosted-hybrid.com/viewtopic.php?t=326
http://m24x.zeroforum.com/zerothread?id=53

ATS*Mark

i used honda bearing . i didnt buy NAPA brand pistons or rods...so i wouldnt skimp out of anything else in the motor , even though they may be very good , i wanted oem quality.

Blind-Fashion

i'm using oem honda bearings for the rods. but the mains speced out to .0015 and i called larry at endyne up and he said i should be just fine and dandy.. So thanks for all the feedback everyone...

oh, and the coating is like a really light grayish for the person that was talking about their coating.

-Josh

dsadas89das78934

i'm using 'cheap' bearings for my rods in my d16 (i cant remember the brand).... so far, so good at 8k miles

99blackcivicSi

I use Honda or ACL, i had a set from advance but sold them before i used them

Blind-Fashion

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 99blackcivicSi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use Honda or ACL, i had a set from advance but sold them before i used them</TD></TR></TABLE>

k thanks for the useless info.

The Destroyer

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blind Fashion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

k thanks for the useless info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Hahahaha.

How much did the bearings run you?

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How do any of us know that Tri-metal is the best? </TD></TR></TABLE>

I had a nice long talk with Vizard circa '91 about tri-metal bearings, he sold me some of the last tri-metal Vandervells in the world for a Triumph straight 6, and at lower cost than Vicky Brit or British Parts NW offered crap bearings for. (BTW, British Parts NW is a groovy company )

ACL, OEM Honda, Clevite 77, and I'm sure there are some other good tri-metal ones out there, all work well in your Honda at higher than stock hp.

Blind-Fashion

guys think i'm ok? i dunno if its tri metal though :-(

ATS*Mark

im sure youll be fine .

i would have went with quadroople metal just to be safe

Blind-Fashion

why not more then that?

99blackcivicSi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blind Fashion &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

k thanks for the useless info.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I gave you my adivice on what i use, take it as you will, i didn't use the advance auto ones because i didn't know what they were made of or if they were even going to be in spec, no use in finding out if they are or not when i can spend a little extra money for the quality.

Also looks like you got a good bit of money in your build why cheap out now on the most important part of your rotatin assembly?