Hey Sonny. You're using a ZC head on your D16A1? Which generation of ZC? 84-87 or 88+?
If it's 88+ (the one everyone puts in EF's), does it bolt on?

 

TJ:

I will probably use an 89 Integra head with ZC cams. I got the whole ZC head + cams from Dustin, but exhaust valves are a little messed up and 2 of the chambers are pitted. The 89 Teg head that I have is in perfect shape.

The 88+ DOHC ZC head is virtually identical to the 88-89 Integra head. The 86-87 Integra head is also pretty much the same. The main difference in the 86-87 head is that the mounting bolt locations for the distributor and cam angle sensor are much different.

Here is a pic of my "selection"



From left to right, that's the 88-91 JDM ZC, 88-89 Integra D16A1, and 86-87 Integra D16A1.

Sonny


[Modified by Sonny, 4:59 PM 7/3/2002]

 

I can have one of these head. heheh. j/k everytime i look at engines it turns me on

 

Got Head?

 

hey sonny,

Do u mind if i complile all this info and all these pix into one condensed deal, and posted it up to the site in my sig?

 

Do I get royalties for each page hit?

Go ahead and "post" it, man. Pun intended.

Sonny

 

Work looks good. A question would be how do you account for the thermal expansion rates of the alum on the block to that of the iron sleave and the steel of the stud? Could be no problem, but I'm just curious.

 

Earl:

The stud is made out of aluminum and should have about the same coefficient of expansion as the the outer portion of the sleeve. It does not penetrate the outer portion of the sleeve at all.

We'll see how it works!

Sonny

 

good job sonny

i am not sureif it's bee asked or not
but what else do u use except the studs? any sealant ?

 

Let us know the results. Project looks good.
I'm still not sure that pinning is the way to go as I believe Honda made the cylinders floating for a reason but on a street turbo block it could be just what is needed. I would never have had the guts to drill that first hole in the block

 

i would bet about 100 bucks that when the cylinder starts coming up to running temperature they will egg shape and the car will start smoking profusely. the reason i say this is a freind of mine had peices of aluminum put in between the block and cylinders in his b20. when it starts warming up it starts using oil very badly. cylinders were checked for out of roundness after installing aluminum peices and they were within tolerances. do keep us informed when you get it together.

 

back from the dead. how is this setup going sonny?

 

It's still on the bench. The engine should be finished in the next month or so. I'm hopeful.

Sonny

 

hmm, thats interesting...
i'd be kinda worried about how the heat expansion would affect things.. yeah it was already addressed above..

like was asked earlier, what material is the pins/posts ?

i'd like to see how the pistons have warn in those blocks using this posting..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by speedworks &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i would bet about 100 bucks that when the cylinder starts coming up to running temperature they will egg shape and the car will start smoking profusely. the reason i say this is a freind of mine had peices of aluminum put in between the block and cylinders in his b20. when it starts warming up it starts using oil very badly. cylinders were checked for out of roundness after installing aluminum peices and they were within tolerances. do keep us informed when you get it together. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Back from the dead....

UPDATE: 1200 miles on the engine...good compression across the board...no smoke! So, I don't think the posts distorted the cylinders. After they were epoxy'd in, a bore and hone job were done to true everything up.

The new engine swap (see web site in my sig for details) gained me 1.5 seconds in the 1/4 and 10 mph. Can't wait to turbo it. Art sent me a very purty SC50 that is dying to be put to use.

Sonny

 

back from the dead, i really want to do this to a gsr block, i just want to know how it worked out

 

Hey, I've got a couple questions about this.....

First of all, where do you put the holes? I'm guessing you don't just eyeball it.

Also, do you need to bore/hone after doing this? I really want to stick with stock bore.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by alpalwal &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey, I've got a couple questions about this.....

First of all, where do you put the holes? I'm guessing you don't just eyeball it.

Also, do you need to bore/hone after doing this? I really want to stick with stock bore.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Larry at Endyn helped me with the post locations. They are a little different depending on which motor you are using.

Bore/hone is necessary in my opinion. If you've got the engine that far apart, why not spend the little extra money to do it right? You are gonna be in a world of hurt if you do it wrong and have to tear the whole thing apart again.

9k miles on the engine and 180 psi compression on all cylinders. I'd say that the posting works.

Sonny

 

How many pounds of boost were you running?

 

What would be the advantage of posting the block as opposed to filling it? Is it better for cooling to post it?

What did you use to seal the posts? You said epoxy... just regular epoxy? JB Weld? I heard you are supposed to use some special stuff...

I'm glad to hear it's still holding up for you, this may be an option for me in the near future...

Where can I find out the posting locations for a d-series engine?

 

I posted my y8 block about two years ago. I used the Endyn supplied posts at $36 shipped.
I'm confused at your pictures because I was told to use 1 post a quarter of the way down the bore on the exhaust side right in the middle of the cylinder, and 2 posts on the intake side evenly spaced apart at the same height. (reminds me of a triangle looking at them down the bore)
I put mine up against the cylinder at the rate of 2/inch pounds (yeah, I just guessed) and used regular jb weld. It's held up to 19 psi and then I melted a piston lol. (AFC hack + 19psi = meltage)


We've since rebuilt the motor, being broken in now with same posts.

 

Back from the dead!!!


How about an update? How do the posts hold up after a few years?