Okay so I own a J spec type R that I'm getting ready to boost. I am doing a rod piston set up and have a spare type R head. I'm wondering is the the type R b18c and gsr B18c any different because I can pick up a hole gsr b18c engine for 200 ebay the head and just build the bottom end on the gsr that way my DD won't be down while I do my build. Any help would be appreciated.

 

the blocks are basically the same, just the cranks are different.

 

everything is identical in the bottom end except the pistons but that is of no concern to you because you said your doing a piston/rod setup. the cranks are the same stroke and materials, the blocks are exact same thing. run which ever one you want.

 

thanks for the help guys

 

J spec ITR cranks are full weight and balanced better.

 

Crappy low revving LS are perfectly balanced to 10K rpms, are you saying the JDM ITR crank is balanced to 10,001 rpms?

 

You guys are SPLITTING HAIRS at this point for these stock cranks. Either crank when balanced with the rest of the assembly will do fine for whatever power you're going to use, unless you're in the NHRA. This is giving people nausea.. Get the damned thing already and run it...

 

No, I'm saying it's balanced to 10.123K rpm to the 10th power! Duh!! It's common knowledge that the JDM ITR crank is balanced better than other B-series cranks so your comment about revving an LS to 10K rpm is moot. Heck, I have seen stock B16A1 cranks revved to 11.5k rpm without any issues.

Just stating the facts about the JDM ITR cranks. The JDM ITR crank is heavier than the normal SiR/SiVTEC B18C crank because additional balancing weights were added to give it a fully balanced 8-weight balancing setup that supposedly reduces vibrations by as much as 20% over the normal crankshaft in the upper rpms. Is it a necessary evil if you own a GSR block instead of an ITR block? NO!

Hell, I'd rather have the LS crankshaft for my 84.5mm GSR block.

 

Wait what? Honda motors are Zero Balance and you should never have to balance the crankshaft in almost all street cars and drag cars for that matter only the Rods and Pistons... Sorry Shodan no BoB Weight Formula here... LOL

 

No. What I'm referring to is what many of us do to ENSURE that car can take higher rpms safely. We balance the crank/rods/pistons as one rotating assembly TOGETHER, and have the rods "hung" so that they can be in perfect balance. This is what a competent machine shop does when one BUILDS a motor. Now I understand that may not be what the "cheaper" individuals do, but that is the BEST way to ensure that when building a new project that everything together is balanced. I was not referring to a Factory engine crank only, so calm down, please.

 

Dosn't matter now I got a trade offer on the car I can't refuse. But I hope to stay around here you HT FI guys/girls are some of the coolest car guy/girls around.

 

So the balance is better with the JDM crank, but it doesn't matter because there's nothing wrong with the LS crank? What you are sayinf is the common knowledge "better" balance of the JDM crank is about as accurate as all the other JDM Hype that doesn't make a single whit of difference when the tire hits the dyno or track.

Gotcha, thanks.



It's not that crucial on an inline four cylinder motor. 95% of the time you can throw unbalanced rod/piston assemblies onto a factory crank and the problems you'll have with high rpms is in the head.

 

That's why I used the term ENSURE.. e.g extra precautionary measures, for non-oem setups using OEM parts.

 

you can sell a good condition itr bottom end for almost enough money to build and buy a gsr bottom end

cranks are different but negligable

 

I'm going to disagree, completely.

You know quite a lot, sir, defintely far more than I do about turbos and their parts interchange and - knowing the sort of person you are - a number of different aspects I am not aware of both automotive and not. That being said, nobody knows more than I do about the limitations of stock parts; my immediate social circle includes people who build motors with intentional design flaws in order to see how far it can be taken, and I tune them so I get to stand there with them when they tear broken **** apart and analyze the cause of failure. Based on my experience, crankshaft balance on a Honda D/B/H22 is something I'd forget about completely even if I was a multi millionaire with a fetish for FWD riceboy toys.


Fixed.

 

thats the word i was looking for thanks

 

I don't think I want to see what my LS-T would do if I tached passed 9k

 

prob mess the head up horribly, even with a built ls head i had to do a valve adjustment every 1,000-2000 miles revving to 8500rpm, if not the nuts would back right off the valve adjuster

 

Sometimes you get lucky when it flings out a rocker, and the rocker doesn't get lodged anywhere vulnerable. I have seen stray ones destroy cams/head. FYI, if you go to adjust your valves on an LS/B20 head and one particular rocker wants to pop out when tightening it, that rocker is prone to flying free at higher rpms. Replace that rocker, and the ball seat it interfaces with, and you'll have very good luck.

The Nissan guys have some rocker followers made out of spring steel, with "fingers" that come down and catch the rockers when they try to rebound past stock valve closed position. I've always wanted to see something of the like for LS, but meh.

 

Joseph. Look, my friend. Its simply your call if you like to push the stock parts to their limits all of the time, in order to have the international connections that you have analyze results and look for areas of failure. I guess where I come from in the motor city, we just don't let it fail in the first place. If that means that many decide to go ahead and reinforce the already stout aspects of a honda rotating assembly for insurance, that's one's call.. But I guess I come from the school of thought of not allowing that part of the build to fail in the first place, then to push it beyond its limits and analyze later.

This is not a question of right or wrong. It is a difference of perspective in terms of how one prepares for a build, be it NA or turbocharged. Nothing more.

 

Good luck with not letting it fail in the first place. Failure's part of the car game, if you aren't breaking things you aren't making power.

That being said, hit the high points and let the silly stuff go. Anything else is a money pit.

Also, there's quite a bit of aftermarket "performance" tomfoolery that does absolutely nothing and is weaker than fifteen year old high mileage stock pieces... just waiting for people who do not know the limitations of stock to buy it as "insurance." I fail to see how you can perform a modification "just in case" without knowing the limitations of the part you are replacing, and the limitations of the part it is being replaced with.

 

That's fine. Then let's just agree to disagree on our methods, shall we? You're in NASCAR country, I'm in the Motor City. Similar schools of thought, but different execution methods. Let the OP himself/herself decide what's best for them. this thread was about them in the beginning, wasn't it?

 

I love seeing stock engines pushed to there limits

 

[QUOTE=TheShodan;39060345] You're in NASCAR country, I'm in the Motor City QUOTE]

Wait are you calling Chicago the "Motor City" or are you more referring to your "thought process"???

 

I didnt know that Detroit was so superior when it comes to engine production? Last time I checked there having some troubles...

That is if you mean Detroit is this magical motor city your from