AlienKrOZ

I have 11.1pistons in my R motor now and i want to boost it without lowering my compression ratio, what would be a good turbo for street/highway. I know that 11.1 compression i kinda high for boosting but looking to do something different. T3/T4? GT35R? Ball Bearing or not? How much earlier does ball bearing kick in compare to regular turbos? Some1 was telling me to run 1 EGT in each cylinder to get the best results for my AEM EMS. I know this will be a big chunk of my wallet i'll be spending.

beerbongskickass

I like the gt30r on your motor, good spool/powerband, and it will support 550whp. That's cool if you want to be different and go with high compression, but you might want to rethink that idea if your going to be on pump gas the majority of the time.

Boostage

I see alcohol injection in your future.

AlienKrOZ

im running this right

AEM EMS
RC 550cc
Walbro intank 255

The motor can push up to 9k but can the turbo handle up till there? for the GT30R should I go BB or just regular journal? what rpm does it full boost at?

atec

the GT30R turbo have no problem handle that engine rpm.

remember the internals of your engine is weak, so if it so much as see detonation the rods might brake or pistons will have a nice hole.

Look at these pics, this is what your engine looks like inside:



I drove my engine at 9-10psi on 98 ron,(about 93us octane I think)
Btw the turbo was a t3-t67, .82ar hotside.

no issues with blown engine here.
but with stock internals on pumpgas you are taking a big chance.

Why don you upgrade pistons and rods, decomp it to about 9:1 or 10:1
its not that expensive.

infulleffect

With keeping the higher compression pistons try for a GT-28RS or the GT2871R.

alpha

Does your motor have forged rods and pistons? If so GT30R. If not GT2871R. Dont cheap out on tuning.

AlienKrOZ

stock jdm pistons might go with forge but can i just swap the old pistons and rods out with the motor in the car? or do i have to rip it apart to get it honed?

AlienKrOZ

if i were to drop it to a 10.1 or 10.5 how much boost can it handle? 10psi? 15psi?

Also have a crazy question to ask. i have a zex 75shot wet kit sitting around you guys think it will handle it?

AlienKrOZ

ttt

yellowturbo

Well keep in mind that the ball bearing turbo are always better... but more expensive so its up to you.

A GT3076R .82ar would be a good choice for now and you could always upgrade your engine later.

AlienKrOZ

i now im really looking into upgrading my internals to forge cause a local shop gave me a good price for JE pistons ($480) or Wiseco ($420) and Eagle rods ($320). Labor for just dropping them in is $300. He's just dropping them straight in since it's go 10k miles and its a fresh new block not a rebuilt. Which pistons would be better? or both just about the same just different brand? if i was going to do them should i drop the CR to 10.1? 10.5? or just keep it at 11.1? for a forge setup what turbo would be good cause now i think the GT35R will be too big for a street/road race setup? GT28RS? GT2871? T3/T4E stage 3?

Setup
Thermal 3" turbo exhaust
RC550 injectors
Walbro Intank 255 fuel pump
AEM EMS or Hondata not sure yet

beerbongskickass

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlienKrOZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if i were to drop it to a 10.1 or 10.5 how much boost can it handle? 10psi? 15psi?

Also have a crazy question to ask. i have a zex 75shot wet kit sitting around you guys think it will handle it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like you want to run a lot of boost and maybe nitrous. If your going to drop the compression look into some good 9:1 pistons. You will be able to make more power and it will be safer on pump gas than if you went with 10.5:1 compression. Seems like every high horsepower honda you see these days are running 9:1 compression, so it must be for a reason.

This thread should help...

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewtopic.php?t=19

AlienKrOZ

i would like to make about 300-350whp on street with low boost 7-10psi. and 400whp on track or when racing my boss's skyline GTR (12psi 478AWHP) on high boost 11-15 with nitrous maybe. but i dont want 2 kill the true potential of the motor by lowering the CR to a 9:1. if i was gonna do that then i would've just built my stock ls motor and sleeve it for even cheaper. but i want something around 10:1 or more CR on pump gas daily drivable. i currently have a T3/T4E stage 3 with my turbo kit but i hear alot of good stuff on the gt28rs (.60 or .82 trim) and gt2871. i've been building this project for a while already so might as well do it right the first time and save a bit of $ instead of popping stuff.

beerbongskickass

You won't be killing the potential at all. You will be keeping your motor safer. You won't notice much difference at low rpms between 9:1 and 10:1 anyways, but if that's what you want go fo it.

Dee

I ran an 10.6:1 JDM GSR motor at 11psi on a 60 Trim AR.60 T4/T3 AR.63 stageIII for quite a while with no problems so you shouldn't ahve any problems either.

Stronger internals are good but a good tune is even beter.

AlienKrOZ

how much power did you get? stock internals?

wpgcivic

550cc injectors will be maxed out in no time...might also want to get bigger

Dee

I was in the 260~270hp range. I have since upgraded to a T67/T3 that will run at 11psi until I can get the 84.5mm bore motor together.

AlienKrOZ

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I was in the 260~270hp range. I have since upgraded to a T67/T3 that will run at 11psi until I can get the 84.5mm bore motor together.</TD></TR></TABLE>

those numbers seem a little low with 10.5CR and 11psi

Dee

Those numbers are perfect for a VERY conservative tune with the old turbo. I am pretty sure the T67/T3 will produce higher numbers at 11psi (eventually it will see 21psi).

1Quikgsr

my compression is at 11.3 no problemes here what so ever on 6psi i made 297 and 194 tq.

RedR

stock itr here 11:1 compression, well i did get a 3mm hg just for peace of mind, running almost 10 psi on a t3/t04e 60 trim .63 a/r no issues so far

HiProfile

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AlienKrOZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">but i dont want 2 kill the true potential of the motor by lowering the CR to a 9:1. if i was gonna do that then i would've just built my stock ls motor and sleeve it for even cheaper.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm glad someone sees the light.

The "true potential" of any turbo motor is at full boost, not bogging it around town pulling away from a stop sign in 2nd gear. The true potential of a high compression streetcar w/stock internals is NA. The ultimate goal for a boosted motor - consistency. 11:1 and weak interals is living on a knife edge. One side is the potential for detonation, the other for failed parts - and both slopes are steep. If it was me, I'd sell the R, get the LS sleeved, build a vtec head, and boost it. And still have money for the titty bar

BTW - teh second goal for a boosted motor: perfect synergy. If you aren't making 600whp (or half that), why do you neeed a turbo for that much?

*Boostwerks*

This is enough evidence for me for staying on a stock block...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1478127

What I would do...

Double up on the head gasket too bring it down to the lower 10s, get ARP head studs, get the biggest bar/plate IC you can fit, GT30R, and most importantly...get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing!

If your not looking for more than 400whp, I say...Stay with the stock block.