Hey guys.
I was wondering about turbo-ing my ls vtec... Never owned a turboed car before and dont know that much about it. Im just wondering if its worth turboing an ls/vtec in a 92 Hatch.

What kind of problems am i going to run into?
Is my motor strong enough?
Will I need anything else?
Costs?
Extra Maintenance?

What kind of power gains can I expect?

Any information on turboing this setup would be appreciated.


Here is my setup now:
Engine
B16 head
Skunk2 stage 2 cams
BDL cam gears
Omni power springs
Omni power retainers
ARP head studs
ABES intake manifold
Thermal Intake manifold gasket
RC 310 injectors
Chipped ECU with data logging
I think that’s it??

LS block
Fresh honed
New OEM P30 pistons (11.7:1~ compression)
New OEM Oil pump GSR
New OEM Water pump GSR
ARP Rod bolts

Integra Type R transmission 97 spec LSD
Exedy Stage 1 organic clutch

Breathing/Cooling
Megan Racing header
2.25 exhaust (no cat)
Intake system
GSR radiator

Suspension
Tokico Whites 5 way adjustable struts
Comp Tech Lowering springs
Skunk2 camber kit
Energy suspension bushing kit

Braking
Full GSR four-wheel disk conversion
Drilled and slotted rotors

 

11.7:1 cr? Where did you get that figure from? Stock LS rods, P30 pistons, and a B16 head...? If that is indeed accurate, turbo should be a no-no, that's high for a forced induction application.

Power expectations? Expect increases in power in the neighborhood of 25-500%. You best do a lot of research before expecting any serious responses to most of the questions at hand.

 

Those are just the numbers the previous owner gave to me... Ive got a compression tester and was thinkin about doing a test sometime this weekend

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Momentum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are just the numbers the previous owner gave to me... Ive got a compression tester and was thinkin about doing a test sometime this weekend</TD></TR></TABLE>

To be frank:

LS/Vtec swaps typically have VERY high compression, with the addition of P30 pistons it probably bumps it more *so 11:1 is believable, albeit 11.7 sounds a bit excessive...*

high compression with boost Pops motors VERY quickly, Ideally you want a CR of 8.5:1-9.0:1 for a boost application *Hence why Stock LS motors are popular for boosting with a stock CR of about 9:1*

if you REALLY wanna boost it, look into buying some dished pistons to drop the CR to a safe level.

 

So would I be completely mental to boost it the way it is... if i leave it at stock boost?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Momentum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So would I be completely mental to boost it the way it is... if i leave it at stock boost?</TD></TR></TABLE>

A little FYI, Stock boost on a LS/Vtec engine is 0PSI (as in it was never a production engine, and it honda never sold any boosted 4 bangers Pre 2000ish, Technically its actually Vacuum, so yea, leave it at stock boost...

 

nothing wrong with turboing a high compression motor. less boost and you'll make the same power as lower compression people.

 

KaaaaaBOOOOOMMMMMMM!!!!!


&lt;then you.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Grimace &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nothing wrong with turboing a high compression motor. less boost and you'll make the same power as lower compression people.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is true, but it requires MUCH more extensive tuning, and a MUCH smaller margin of error to produce the same power regardless of boost levels.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .Grimace &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nothing wrong with turboing a high compression motor. less boost and you'll make the same power as lower compression people.</TD></TR></TABLE>

it all depends on the tune, make sure you get a good tune and your tuner knows what they're doing, there is nothing wrong with boosting high compression motors.

 

just gives you a smaller less tolerable detonation threshold sortaspeak, cylinder pressure is cylinder pressure, just different ways to go about it.

 

So as long as i keep the boost low I should be fine...

My injectors are good enough, etc? Noone notices anythign else that should be upgraded for low boost?

 

what is this test or something and we're missing an answer? do some ******* research and you'll find the damn answer.

 

wow whats up your ***...

I just asked a siple question.

 

exactly a simple question searching would answer.

 

A quick search will tell me if my car is built for a turbo?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Momentum &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Those are just the numbers the previous owner gave to me... Ive got a compression tester and was thinkin about doing a test sometime this weekend</TD></TR></TABLE>

This statement alone means you shouldn't turbo your motor because you don't know enough about Honda motors or cars in general. A compression test tells you how much each cylinder has the ability to hold compression; not what the compression ratio is.

Typically, checking the compression numbers against a known range for a motor with known compression ratio X is a good way to see if your motor is healthy. However, since you don't know your CR for sure, doing this isn't going to be much help since getting Y PSI average per cylinder is only going to tell you that each cylinder is holding Y PSI. In other words, you can get a good compression figure, but if you're rolling with an 11.7:1, it may be horrible.

In example: you could see 240 PSI per cylinder when you do this test (correctly). Now, that's a good number, but for an 11.1:1 CR. Your 11.7:1 CR should be yielding at least 280 per cylinder, if not 300+, to say it's healthy.

 

Im definately going to do some research before I decide to go boosted or not. If im going to go ahead with it it will be over the winter, so I have all summer to research and prepare for it.

------------
Engine: Fresh honed block, new P30 Pistons, Skunk2 cams, BDL cam gears, Omni springs and retainers, ARP head studs and rod bolts, ABES Intake manifold, RC 310 Injectors, Ecu chipped on crome/uberdata.

Transimission: 1997 Integra Type R short gear tranny with LSD

Cooling: Megan headers, 2.25' exhaust, CAI, radiator replaced with a GSR rad (bigger, not that half sized crap hondas come with stock)

Suspension: Tokiko Whites 5-way adjustable shocks, Comp Tech springs, Skunk2 camber kit

Braking: GSR disk brake swap all the way around with drilled and slotted rotors.( I have the ITR brake/wheel swap laying around not sure if im gunna switch it or not )

----------------

 

You can certainly turbo your setup, but it requires care. You need to locate a REPUTABLE tuner, as well as a REPUTABLE person with the experience to lead you down the right path. Search in your area, or make a thread to find who's got a good rep where you live is my suggestion.

I also noticed you asked about your injectors. The ones you have will certainly not be adequate. To cite Schister's common post, 6cc's x whp desired / 4 =injector size needed on gasoline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RC000E &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also noticed you asked about your injectors. The ones you have will certainly not be adequate. To cite Schister's common post, 6cc's x whp desired / 4 =injector size needed on gasoline. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Hmm....and here i thought people turned a deaf ear to me

The 6cc per whp formula is a rough estimate of your injector sizing. Its not exact science, but gives you at least something to base your choice on...