tactzer0

Hi honda-tech, I've been around these forums a while but I never had a need to really post anything until now.

I currently own a 1990 Acura Integra RS with a B18C1 engine swapped in (engine has a little less than 80,000 miles). I have the A/C and Power Steering removed btw. I have some basic mods already like an Apexi Exhaust, Tenzo-R Cold Air Intake, DC Sport Header, OBD II to OBD I Conversion, and an Exedy stage 1 Clutch. (I'm aware these all are pretty much going to need to get replaced)

My goal is to get around 500+ whp with a turboed setup along with whatever motor upgrades I'll need.

My questions for you guys are:

What should I do BEFORE buying the main turbo parts?

What parts should I replace? Fuel pump? Rails? -- and what parts of the engine should I get checked out? (or pressures, temperatures)

What new parts will I need? (Hondata, LSD, etc.)

What motor work needs to be done for a hp goal like this? (Pistons, Cams/Gears)

Should I relocate my battery for the space or just buy a compact battery or both?

Another side goal is to keep this very light, so if you guys have opinions about flywheels or other lighter components with a turboed setup, let me know.

Can you list the priority in which I should get this stuff done?

I'm looking to spend the time and money doing everything right so I have a very stable car. If you guys need me to give more details just let me know.

Silva Bullit DC4

For starters, the purpose of the car, what kind of powerband you're looking for, and what fuel will be used, is gonna determine the outcome of your power goal.

On premuim pump gas, 500+ whp is pretty lofty, but is achievable, granted you have the setup to do it. However, such a goal on pump gas leaves minimal margin for error for your tuner, and IMO, is not a necessity on the street alone, due to massive traction problems, if not running boost-by-gear. Race gas or E85 pump fuel, is a different story. Many other factors will come into play as well, such as what piston compression chosen, cams, manifold style, etc.

State the purpose of the car, be it a daily driver, weekend/track warrior or both, and I'll go into further detail on your questions. Depending on your answer, you may wanna rethink your goal.

ryguy2588

iTrader: (11)

Silva is right about the use of this car. Is this gonna just be a track car or DD? You’re not gonna be getting very much traction with 500+hp on the road, so I’m guessing this is gonna be a track car. Detonation is gonna be hard to get around if you’re just gonna run 91 octane unless you have an amazing tuner.

I’m running a fully built poorman’s type r that putting down about 330 whp running 91. It’s pretty much gonna be the same setup, but mine has a b16 head. I can run a lot more boost, but it’s my daily and I don’t have the fuel for that hp unless I go to the track.

1) Buy supertech/ferrea dished valves, dual valve springs, and titanium retainers, take the block apart, take the block and the head to ur trusted machine shop, and get all the machine work for the head (deck/valve job/ port and polish (if wanted)) and the block (deck/hone/bore) done to make sure there isn’t anything wrong with the head or the block.

2) You’re going to want to do a fully built motor it you want this to be reliable down the road. I mentioned what you need for the head in 1). I’m not the guy to recommend cams cuz i’m using stock GSR cams and they work great. I have friends that make 600hp on stock GSR cams. Get some Blox/AEM adjustable cam gears for your tuner to fine tune your power band. For the block, you’re going to want some Eagle rods, new Cleavite or ACL race bearings, forged pistons (I’m using Supertech), maybe an aftermarket crank, but it’s not needed, and to make your block bulletproof, I would get some Darton sleeves installed.

3) For fuel, you’re gonna want a Walbro 255 fuel pump, an aftermarket fuel rail, fuel pressure regulator, and some big *** 1200cc RC or precision injectors.

4) New parts? You’re gonna need a whole new turbo setup if that’s what you mean…turbo, intercooler, charge piping, bov, wastegate, downpipe, and all that good stuff. You’re gonna want to get a good tuning system. I’m running Hondata S300 and absolutely love it. Get the software that your tuner is comfortable with. LSD in a tranny will work wonders for traction. You can just get a GSR tranny with it already, or you can go buy your own and install it yourself.

5) If you’re gonna spend the money, go with an ACT or even better clutch kit. They’re great kits, and they can be very light.

6) Battery is up to you. I just left my battery in the same place cuz it’s not the most important thing to move your battery. It’s mainly just for looks.

There’s probably stuff that I’m missing, but that is most of my setup with a couple things added in that I don’t have.

tactzer0

It's definitely a "project car", however, it's also my daily driver. Currently, I get around 400 miles to the 13.2 gallon tank without trying, so if I have to sacrifice some mpgs I'm ok with that.

As far as a purpose goes, I'm looking to have a big turbo with less boost and aim for a higher powerband - maybe around 4k - redline - I just know that I do NOT want the turbo to run out of breath at 7k. I wouldn't say it's a quarter mile car, I'm more interested in circuit racing. However, I have to take in consideration what application the car is being used for the most - and that is highway driving.

Also, if I have the power kicking in later, I feel like I'd have more traction starting out and I'd be able to control mpgs more if I wanted to. Most of my driving is on the highway and I already have got used to downshifting/rev matching to a lower gear to be in my powerband, so again, having power in the lower rpm ranges isn't as big of a deal to me.

As far as gas, I would like to still use the typical 93 premium.

ryguy2588

iTrader: (11)

If it's gonna be ur daily, then I would run two different maps. Run a daily driving map with lower boost, and then have another map just for the track. Cuz if you have 500+ to the wheels, even if it doesn't spool till 4-5k, once you hit full boost, you will have quite a bit of tire fire.

If you want a turbo that doesn't run out of breath that's an amazing turbo, I would get a Holset hx35 or hy35. They don't hit full spool until 4-5k rmps. I'm running the hy35 right now and I love it. They run between $250-$300.

tactzer0

As far as traction problems go, are you guys saying from a 60 roll in third gear I'm going to just spin my tires rather than go anywhere? Can't I just give the car less throttle?

th3pwn3r

Of course but most people don't have that type of control over their foot haha.

ryguy2588

iTrader: (11)

Ya you can drive it really lightly, but what's the fun in that? lol. You could be spinning from a 60 roll if you don't have wide enough tires or enough grip especially with that kind of power.