$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

So my car is smoking like a train although it only has minor shaft play I've narrowed it to turbo seals. What you guys think?

So I guess my two options are rebuild or 6266.

I'm wanting to switch to a vband exhaust not sure how much
Pte is gonna charge me for all that. I might be better of getting the 6266

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not enough faith in the turbo to rebuild it? Perhaps the "perfect" excuse to get something else? Find the cause as to how its doing that so it doesn't happen to another turbo...

B and B

iTrader: (3)

So Mac,
What in your opinion is the main cause of leakage?
I asked a local rebuilder his opinion and he said hot shutdowns and poor drain setups...
Both of which I feel contributed to my Holset smoking.
I have been working on the drain component .. Need a turbo timer I guess.
I also ran a blanket which I think held the heat in more..exacerbating the hot shutdown problem..
I daily drive mine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

OP needs to make a decision

1. Rebuild current turbo and use it
2. Get a 6266 and use it, rebuild old turbo or keep as is and try to sell it, or throw it away (if throw it away is your choice, send it to me and i'll make art out of it, maybe a lamp or something lol)

Keep in mind going to a bigger turbo like the 6266 will require a retune as well as potential modifications... such as the downpipe, intercooler pipe off turbo (unless direct backdoor)

also, will the larger turbo mean a stronger clutch? will it require a fuel system upgrade? How will the drivability/power curve of the car change? etc

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Thanks for the input guys. And yes my main concern is keeping this from happening again.

I religiously let my
Car ideal for at least 2 minuets before shutting it down and I am chafing my drain set up.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Current turbo is a sc61

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

I have faith in a rebuild I'm just not sure that $300-350 to get it re build plus how ever much they are gonna charge me for the vband exhaust housing. Is gonna be worth it. A bnib 6266 is 950$

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

it wouldn't be worth it but you have to think about how much swapping to a new turbo will cost

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Yea I would have to get a retune, that the only big thing all the other stuff is no biggie. Thanks guys

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ummm.. Not anymore player.. Those prices went up over $100 a while ago, now..


http://www.extremeturbosystems.com/P...bocharger.html

http://www.maperformance.com/pte-626...Few7MgodDygA0w

http://www.suprastore.com/prt62bi.html

http://www.nolimitmotorsport.com/prod/PTB-PT6266-CEA

Even eBay's usual Bottom-down pricing has Forsaken the ultimate cheapos..
http://www.ebay.com/bhp/precision-6266

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Got a quote on here from Chris miller racing $950 shipped. Are those guys not legit or Somthing? I found them on the sponsor market place thread.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

As I was just posting that, I thought of that. If its the Miller ad that he's running here:

http://hondamarketplace.com/showthre...2982658&page=6

He may be having a blowout sale, because newer prices kicked in, and doesn't want to reorder the same amount.

Chris Miller is VERY legitimate. You can buy with confidence there. But there are alternatives to that 6266 for slightly more with as much if not more potential

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Yea that a killer price to pass up and my tunner recommended the 6266.

You only deal with ball bearing turbos or you have jb as well. Wanted to get a way with out plumbing for a water source

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's a BIG reason to run water... But yes JB and BB. The JB one uses optional water, not required.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

yea I would buy from Chris Miller anytime. he's one of the guys that still loves our cars lol
he's always been trying to innovate products and.continues to break records with his Integra at the strip.

super legit guy

I would also talk to TheShodan as he builds some wicked turbos. I'm sure he could make you a custom turbo around your goals and motor for a very similar price and you would have an amazing turbo when it's all said and done

plus Mac (TheShodan) stands behind and in front of his products 110%


but if you do decide to stick with the sc61 (tried and true turbo. everyone knows its potential and how well they work) I would look here in the fi classifieds or on eBay for that v-band turbine housing.

or help a brother out and mail it to me lol ;-) :-P

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Ok.

1) The heat blanket assist with cooling engine bay temps and at the same time keep the turbine hot enough to help get those exhaust gases out.. The blanket helps, just in ways you may not aware of. So, no.. that's not a source of the problem at all.

2) The drain setup is even more important because without the proper drain setup, you can have oil backups that will easily bypass the oil sealing ring. In some cases, just because oil has gone passed that sealing ring and started burning on the turbine wheel heat shield due to a bad return setup doesn't mean that its automatically ruined; if caught quickly enough, you can make adjustments to the oil return line and center section to correct the problem and save that ring from having any further "coked" oil that's been burning on it. In most cases, its best to make sure that no 90* oil drain fittings are anywhere on your oil drain line, either at the drain flange or at the oil sump/pan. This is big key in helping to stop oil backups.

2.1) With the oil drain comes oil feed. The Holset and the Garrett cartridges have different oil pressure parameters. Holset center cartridge oil galleys can withstand much higher oil pressures without the need of restrictors and other regulators to ensure proper bearing lubrication, unlike Garrett and similar styled turbochargers that may have smaller galleys that require specific sized restrictors that would work best. Unlike what Precision is preaching, the use (or no use) of a restrictor is determined by your oil pressure at the oil feed inlet at Cold start or Wide Open Throttle.
Anything over 80psi of oil pressure for a Garrett or Garrett-styled turbo (such as a Precision) requires about a .060" - .065" in either a 1/8th or 1/4NPT fitting into the inlet.

3) Water cooling.. Most of the reasons why even using a turbo timer is not enough to keep oil from coking is from the use of water lines. Just because a turbo uses water lines doesn't automatically mean that its a Steel Ballistics ball-bearing turbo. Its a requirement for the ball-bearing series (because of the fact that they use about 1/3rd less oil to lubricate the bearings than a journal bearing does, with double the friction from the bearing surfaces contacting the shaft creating more heat) but an option on the journal bearing series.

Contrary to popular belief, the use of water was meant for endurance racing cool downs and daily driving, NOT for drag racing. Think about it for a minute, with the exception of diesel applications, all OEM based turbochargers used water to cool down, because the biggest abuse for the turbo was commuting miles, not racing. On average, a car that is cruising without load on the highway at 65 miles/hr still created turbine EGTs at over 1400*. Even with proper cool down, the water in the jacket keeps the heat that transfers from the turbine housing to the center section from coking the oil. The white paper on this is on the FAQs.

Drag racers on the track more than the street, don't require that as much as a daily commuter because the oil temps just don't get hot enough, fast enough to need water. So, really, the more you're on the street or circuit, the more water is needed.

So, in essence , your issue is solved more with the use of water lines more than worrying about a turbo timer, (although it does help, too.)

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Tons of great info. I have a 90 at my pan on return side I'm betting that's why mine took a **** .

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

very much soo... But now you know, and you need to correct it before getting ANYTHING else.

portenio78

iTrader: (1)

I kinda know what your setup is, why not go 6262? Its just a stock sleeve street car right?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

so can I make art out of your toasted turbo lol? <3

B and B

iTrader: (3)

me too

I also have no money for a water-cooled turbine.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

for a professional rebuild you're looking at roughly 250 (assuming all hard.components are in reusable shape)

this includes disassembly, cleaning, and inspection of all components. then the chra would be cleaned, inspected for cracks/damage then have new bearings and seals installed then the turbine shaft and compressor wheel would be installed and the entire assembly would be rebalanced

if it all checks out they would then ship it back to you

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's gone up a bit for most places. About $375..except possibly places like gpopshop.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

yes stock sleeve street car/ weekend strip car. right now im running a SC61 with a .63 ar

tony reccommended 6266, but i think i may want to go with a water cooled unit. throwing around options now.

i will see how much coin PTE is talking to rebuild my current unit.

you ran 6262 Journal Bearing .83ar on your SOL. any trouble with it? i have heard a lot of PTE JB units going bad rather premature

a buddy of mine is running a GT35 BB on b18C setup the thing has lasted 6 years no trouble out of it.

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

yea i was figuring around $350 plus shipping. problem is i broke a bolt off in the housing when i was drilling it out i broke the drill it off in it too, lol.
shodan almost has me sold on one of his units as well so we see what happens