well, i just dove back in and found that my wastegate gasket was burnt to all ****, so I threw on another one that I had, and no more leak. I also have had a HORRIBLE time with spoolins manifold. Ive had bolts fall off left and right, even though i bought the manifold stud kit

Tomarrow Im going to grab the stock boost gauge out of my friends suby. Im also thinking about going and getting some rc 880's and getting it retuned. Id like to just save up for the motor build, but ill need the 880s sooner or later, might as well make it sooner and be safe.

 

motor is a stock h22. i went with super low boost because of the h22 status. I need to do a compression and leakdown ASAP to check it out.

 

The IC is NOT the problem. I've made 331whp on a smaller IC than that. You have a busted motor, or a boost leak or something. Blaming the IC for only making that amount of HP is unbelieveable ignorant. You could make more HP that that WITHOUT an intercooler. Leakdown/compression test would be the first things i'd look at.

 

that look like a stock dyno graph to me too. When your can was on the dyno, did you hear the wastegate open?

 

you know, i didn't its weird. I can hear the turbo spool just fine, but nothing like the "kuchunk" ive heard on other builds. thats a good point.

Im left feeling like theres either a boost leak, or that the motor is fubar. The thing is my BOV is sounding off great, so the boost leak theory is at leak looks kind of shaky. Boost gauge and compresion/leakdowns will tell me what i need to know however, so until then im kinda in the dark i think.

Yea i didnt think it was the intercooler size. i did see my water temp go down a significant amount after the turbo install though.

I love you guys, Ht brings tears to my eyes like a love onion

 

you can have a boost leak and the b.o.v will still go off

 

oh yea? good to know, good to know.

Any ways to check for fried rings besides the two aforementioned test? any clues in the oil?

I realized that my exhaust at WOT is smoking, its white/greyish, and not the stark blue of oil............... dammit?

 

As stated, the first thing I would do is a compression test and then a leak down.

If those turn out OK then hook up that boost guage and make sure you're putting out the PSI that you think you are.

Next on the list would be just spend the $$$ on the injectors that you're gonna need later anyway , pop'm in and get it retuned at a little higher PSI (so you can move a little closer to your turbos efficientcy). And if you don't already have one, get a higher out put fuel pump.

I would expect no less than 230whp .....

 

doesn't white smoke mean headgasket problem? and you're loosing coolant?

to check for ringland problems... compression and leakdown test is your friend... if you have bad compression... throw in a cap full of oil in cyl to see if it gets better pression... leakdown test and check to see if your valves are outta whack... =] good luck... we're all waiting for your compression test and boost gauge!

 

How much oil are you supplying to your turbo??? Do not run stock oil pressure to your turbo. In my experience I ran too much oil to the tubo bearing which slowed the turbo down causing major turbo lag and loss of power, not mention smoke from the tailpipe which could have been mistaken for white. Also, what weight spring do you have in your wastegate? Any wistling noise outside of normal turbo sounds when "Boosting"? this could be a sign that you have boost leaks. Maybe what you think is the BOV is actually a boost leak. Any CELS showing?

 

.4 bar on a sc61 isn't even touching that turbo. Are you putting this setup on your H23? And also that intercooler isn't the damn problem. Are you dead sure there is no boost leak? Also how are you sure you were running .4 bar, you said you didn't have a boost gauge? Why spend money on a tune and not even know exactly the boost man?

 

two words.....1000cc injectors.

 

well, my boost gauge was supposed to come weeks ago, and i had an appt. to tune. I needed my car to get to school etc, and just needed to drive, so i went ahead and got it tuned.

Imunna get the tests done and then start working towards this new motor. I should be daily on 11 pounds, and the turbo should really get into its efficiency range. I got the turbo setup with my view a ways down the line, for when the motor is built

 

has to be a boost leak, check all your friggin hose clamps (you should buy T-bolt clamps) Takes like 5 mins (if your retarded) to inspect all your IC piping connections. theres people making more power than you with STOCK injectors, so i dont think fuel is an issue at this point...
PS my BOV sounds off even when i dont make ANY boost, so thats irrelevant.

PSS i have a fairly large turbo which is sized for a 2.2L+ or a 6 cylinder on my b18c, and on 6psi untuned the thing friggin tears the **** outa my BFG drag rads... Which means im making a **** house more power than 10whp over a stock b18c...You have a boost leak...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mildly.interesting &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">two words.....1000cc injectors.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

one question, why?

 

1000cc should be able to give me the widest possible range of tunability I think. I can pull out fuel now, and add more later.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chihuahuamanx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1000cc should be able to give me the widest possible range of tunability I think. I can pull out fuel now, and add more later.</TD></TR></TABLE>

talk about over kill... IF and when that block ever gets built i'm sure that 1000cc is gonna still be over kill. try 720s or maybe 880s. My personal experiece is, don't run any larger injector than you have to, within reason or course. I tuned my buddies h22/drag kit @10psi/rc880s/Uber, it would idle fine but was very tempermental to weather change. I think weather has a greater effect on larger injectors.... long term fuel trim??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evosol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

talk about over kill... IF and when that block ever gets built i'm sure that 1000cc is gonna still be over kill. try 720s or maybe 880s. My personal experiece is, don't run any larger injector than you have to, within reason or course. I tuned my buddies h22/drag kit @10psi/rc880s/Uber, it would idle fine but was very tempermental to weather change. I think weather has a greater effect on larger injectors.... long term fuel trim??</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you have a EMS with AIT correction you dont have to worry about that problem.

 

BOOST LEAK....

 

From looking at that dyno plot, the way the power line looks, it makes it sound like the motor didnt' see any boost at all. As stupid as it sounds, it just seems to me that no matter how much boost your were running or how much power it would make, that the HP line on the dyno plot would be more "peaky" showing where the turbo starts spooling and what not. i dunno, its wierd though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by chihuahuamanx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you know, i didn't its weird. I can hear the turbo spool just fine, but nothing like the "kuchunk" ive heard on other builds. thats a good point.

Im left feeling like theres either a boost leak, or that the motor is fubar. The thing is my BOV is sounding off great, so the boost leak theory is at leak looks kind of shaky. Boost gauge and compresion/leakdowns will tell me what i need to know however, so until then im kinda in the dark i think.

Yea i didnt think it was the intercooler size. i did see my water temp go down a significant amount after the turbo install though.

I love you guys, Ht brings tears to my eyes like a love onion</TD></TR></TABLE>


Yeah man a boost gauge would help. It really doesn't look like you're making any boost. I'd almost put money on it being your problem.


The turbo will always spin, it doesn't mean it's spooling. When it spools you should hear a hissing sound and you should feel it while driving the car.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SHystrdyGSRtdy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how do you run injectors at "105%"?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basicly, the computer is keeping the injector open longer than the actual time it takes for the engine to make two complete revolutions.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR981002 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The IC is NOT the problem. I've made 331whp on a smaller IC than that.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Lies!! It has been written on HT that Bar and Plate IC works great...meaning tube and fin must suck a$$. (stupid logic) As ITR said, your IC is more than plenty.

Your a/f looks good, but your most likely looking at very low boost and or bad timing.
Second, have you ever seen too much fuel burn white or blueish? Nope...it burns black...meaning your burning oil. The color gives you a better idea of where your burning it from. I don't remember which color means what...but its either a leak at the valves (or possibly turbo) or your rings are going.
Are you using any kind of oil restrictor on the oil feed line to the turbo?

 

Let me guess...


...stock clutch?

Sounds to me like you forgot a clutch.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by redteg_87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me guess...


...stock clutch?

Sounds to me like you forgot a clutch.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You'd know if it was the clutch.

 

Definitly get a boost gauge on there.. Also, as people have mentioned the bov can still operate even with 0 gauge pressure.