MalcolmV8

Hey Guys,

I've been trying to trace a very small exhaust leak that was so small I couldn't hear anything but rather I noticed when I'd roll up my windows driving I could smell it.
I suspected the exhaust manifold gasket between the cylinder head and the manifold because those nuts had wiggled loose on me and I replaced them all with lock washers this time.

However in the process of pulling everything apart tonight I noticed the four bolts that hold the turbo to the exhaust manifold where finger loose. Yes I didn't even have to use a wrench to remove them. Owch. I had put those in pretty tight and used lock washers which are now completely flat and have no spring to them what so ever. I'm assuming they got so hot the metal fatigued and now they're flat washers with a slit lol.

So anyhow how are you guys securing those bolts? I assume some lock tight in this location is a bad idea?

Thanks
Malcolm

david974

go for studs and crimplock nuts
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com..._cat=Fasteners

MalcolmV8

Ah, I can see how a crimp lock nut won't vibrate loose but what's keeping the stud in the exhaust manifold? Do you put some lock tight on it before installation?

XxRoCkMaNxNEOxX

iTrader: (3)

this is a good thread mine came off from my blox cast manifold where the t3 inlet goes to the manifold.

show us your techniques.

W!d3b0dYr3X

you can always safety wire the bolts if it has a nut on the other side

MalcolmV8

Not sure I could safety wire that in the give space to work especially on the one side.

kyden

split lock washer.

SiRCiviC94

I loctite all the threads going in the head and for the nut/washer but dont know if they will losen up yet

napa was saying use the red stuff but fk that I used just the blue they are crazy

what about double nuting the stud that would help too

MalcolmV8

That's what I originally used. They fatigued and no longer have any spring to them. Presumably from the high heat right at the turbo.

LightningTeg

Copper exhaust lock nuts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-M8-1-25-Exhaust-Lock-Nut-Copper-Plated-Steel-12mmHex-/400178033051?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DS I%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BUA%252BFICS%26otn%3D21 %26pmod%3D120869971943%26ps%3D54

Never had one back out

MalcolmV8

Do you use studs with it? For that price I should just get this kit I'm thinking, it has the copper nuts too http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...nd+Gasket+Kit+

tron_

Good thread, I can see a lot of people having this problem. Right now my manifold flange is threaded so I have bolts holding the turbo to the manifold. Plus I have split washers with each stud double nutted.

MalcolmV8

Yeah my manifold is threaded too and the holes don't go all the way through so I have to use studs. Those crimp lock nuts look like the solution and I'm thinking put some lock tight on the studs as they go into the manifold.

LightningTeg

Yeah that kit is for the turbo not your head. I just went to ACE or autozone and got the studs I needed. That price for the nuts themselves is very good since you cannot reuse them more then a couple times.

digital sol

iTrader: (1)

Wait a sec, your turbo manifolds have "threaded" holes for where the flange connects to the turbo & wastegate?

mines13

http://www.nord-lock.com/ This is the best product ever made for this issue. Period. Kind of pricey but worth it.

MalcolmV8

Correct it's the turbo to manifold I'm having issues with. It's those four bolts that came loose even with lock washers.

Yes. I take it yours does not? This is the manifold I'm using
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/go...-manifold.html

I looked over the site. It's just two washers with some steps cut in them. Clever if it works but how pricey can that really be? Sounds like they may over charge if you're saying it's expensive.

LightningTeg

Yes. GoAutoworks ftw

Whiterice-gsr

i used a dab of rtv on the bolts holding the turbo and mine have been good to go since day one, no washers just bolts in the threaded manifold.

MalcolmV8

I'm surprised the RTV didn't burn away with the heat there. Cool yours is working though.

mines13

The Nord Lock setup works extremely well. I have them installed on my turbo setup. These are a common sight in high-end industrial applications where this could be an issue.



Tension makes the bolt self-locking. Since the cam angle " α " is larger than the thread pitch " β ", the pair of washers expand more than the corresponding pitch of the thread. the washers lock the fastener in a joint which maintains tension in extreme vibration or dynamic loads.

thewrai6th

Awesome, if mine ever back out again I'm getting those. I've tried so many things, like locktite and different types of washers. The intense heat just breaks them all loose. Where can those be purchsed in the US?

Whiterice-gsr

the rtv i use is the high heat stuff i put a small bead on all exhaust gaskets, it doesn't burn away ever man. i put a small bead on all exhaust gaskets. if youve ever tried to get an exhaust gasket off the head after using the rtv u know it sticks like hell and thats on a flat surface so with a threaded surface it holds amazingly well. i put it on all the studs, bolts gaskets and nothing leaks.

MalcolmV8

I've been thinking about this for a while and I don't think I'm going with the stud and nut method. I agree a crimp lock nut is going to lock onto that stud like there's no tomorrow and probably never back off but what's keeping the stud in the manifold?
What ever method I use to secure the studs into the manifold (high temp RTV) I might as well just use on the bolts and save buying the studs and copper crimp nuts.

mines13

I bought my set here: http://www.mcmaster.com/#nord-lock-washers/=gv88ga