Death_to_Thieves

All,

I have a 2000 integra with an LS-T. Completely stock motor with drag kit. Kit consists of Drag mani, turbonetics 57 trim, Tial WG and Ebay intercooler, DSM injectors and Walbro pump. 2.5 DP and exhaust

Car has been boosted for almost a year now with no issues. This is my daily driver and not abused at all. Ran beautiful. A few days ago as I was accellerating the car seemed to hit a wall. TOTAL loss of power. Seemed to do it consistently at 10 psi (MBC was set to 13) but still does it on lower boost running off the spring. Only happens after being WOT for like a second or 2. Went for a drive with my buddy who did the turbo install and tuning and he says it is boost cut. Boost cut is set at 15 psi and car is now only running off 7lb spring after removing the MBC and still does it. The car just totally loses power and boost just drops. No accellerating possible unless I let off the gas.

Eliminated the MBC to only run off spring and same thing. Checked and took apart the WG and all seems fine with it. Changed vacumm sources to the WG and still the same. Verified that boost cut is at 15psi. Reburned chip and installed. Same problem. It's not like the car breaks up, it just loses all power and boost drops. I have checked piping and all is secure and in place. My buddy says its possibly a bad MAP sensor although I am running an Omni MAP that is only a few months old. What could be causing this? What should I look at? Has anyone ever experienced this before? Before I spend $125 on a new map, would a faulty one cause this?
Car makes boost nice and smooth to the 7 lbs but once its at full boost with me at WOT for like a second or 2 it totally dies. Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks all.
Jaysem

integrawow

So it's not like it does it every time you reach regulated boost pressure, right? Or, does it do this like every time you reach regulated boost which would be for you, from what i've read, about 7 to 8 psi?

Also, is your rev limiter SOMEHOW activating early? It isn't misfiring when it does this, or does it? Does the car run like it's not boosted when it does this, such that we can eliminate any little problem that might be occurring with the turbo?

These questions might help. Hey, it could be your MAP sensor, but I don't know.

Honda Bull

Is it misfiring? Or it dies and just coasts? Weird issue. In for answers.

Death_to_Thieves

Before I removed the MBC regulated pressure was 13psi. When this started happening the car would no longer get to 13. Always died before that, mainly around 10. Now that I removed the the MBC and it is running off the 7lb spring, it will reach 7-8 psi but die once Im WOT and at 7-8 for a couple seconds.

When driving the car normal and not reaching max psi, the car runs like it always has. Car will make the boost nice and smooth as always but then hits thsi wall as soon as Im on it for a few seconds at max boost. No breaking up no misfiring, nothing.



Car just dies and coasts. No breaking up at all. Once the loss of power hits, I can no longer accellerate or anything, even if I keep my foot on the gas at WOT the RPM's just continue to drop as if I put the car in neutral and was coasting. In order for me to be able to accellerate Ihave to take my foot off the gas and then get on again.

malubawla

sounds like the car is sputtering.....i had a similar problem when I hit WOT my car would be stuck as if I was hitting the rev limiter. I ended up changing my plugs NGK part number 6097 and distributor and the problem was gone. Good luck

lilintegra25

change ur spark plugs.... same thing happen to me.....

Death_to_Thieves

On my old GSR I had the problem in which it was hitting its rev limiter at 3500. I changed the distributor and it was good after that. I know exactly what you are talking about and at first thought it may have been the same, but don't think so now. That problem was more of a sputtering and hitting the limiter at 3500. This is a TOTAL loss of power not sputtering or breaking up and Im not hitting a limiter. The RPMs drop completely even with my foot on the gas where if it was a problem like before, keeping on the gas would just bounce off the limiter.

Was thinking of doing that anyway since I havent changed them since being boosted. Hopefully it's something as quick as that! So you're car was doing the same thing?

90matthf

Im going with the spark plugs also, you could just try gapping them a hair tighter to see if it fixes the problem.

Honda Bull

*gasp*

Shame on you.

Definitely change them out if you've had them for nearly a year being abused. Not sure if that will cure what your engine is doing, but for such a cheap fix ($10), not going to hurt to attempt.

nemisish20

Hit me up . Im in west haven 215-8996. i had the same issue with a single cam (did you check and see if your TPs is off?) And what size map sensor are you running?.

lilintegra25

what plugs are you using? are you tuned?

Death_to_Thieves

Fixed

I'll let you guys know how I make out. Thanks

Death_to_Thieves

Changed my plugs and so far so good. I fail . Done numerous pulls and no symptoms yet. Keeping my fingers crossed. Hope this does it. When I pulled my old plugs, a couple of them had a bunch of oil on them. Is this anything I should be worried about or just normal for some plugs that should have been changed out a long time ago?

Thanks to everyone for their help.

accord_raffi

check your new plugs after like a day. you may have oil leaking through the spark plug tube seals. mine need to be replaced. I'm hoping it's just the upper ones because i don't feel like taking the head out to do the bottom ones.

HamiltonRex

Bottom ones?

Honda Bull

Good to hear that it's good now. Was the oil on the electrode or just the threads? Could be oil making its way in through the valve cover seals (o-rings) like mentioned already.

lol. I don't know either. The headgasket is a seal for the head to the block... not for the plugs.

accord_raffi

Lol i most definitely did not mean the headgasket. I just remember reading online and through manuals that there are 2 sets of spark plug tube seals. It is much more common for the ones pressed into the valve cover to need replacing, but i was pretty sure in the readings it said there is another set that can only be reached if you remove the valvetrain...maybe i have it mixed up with something else. if you guys know what i might have it confused with, let me know. i'll look it up again.

Death_to_Thieves

Little bit of oil on both. Only a couple of them had oil on them but it was on the electrode and on the threads.

turboteg2nv

Spark plugs Same thing happened to me a while ago, my roommate was driving behind me and saw fire pop out the exhaust.

FYI, I change my NGK-BKR7E plugs with every oil change.

Death_to_Thieves

Car is acting up again. I put the MBC back on and put the boost back up to 13. Got on the highway today and it did the same ****. Not as bad though, it lost power but starting building boost and accellerating if I kept my foot on the gas but would die a couple seconds later. I bet my plugs probably have oil on them. I'm going to pull them out and replace the VC gasket and the tube seals and get another set of plugs.

If I still continue to get oil on the plugs, what is the next step? valve seals? piston rings?

Death_to_Thieves

NGK BKR7E
Yes tuned on Crome Pro.

NJIN BUILDR

Give the igniter in the distributor a try.Swap it with another one,used is fine.I chased a "boost cut" for a while until someone said to try the igniter.It would cut out at 6k under boost,just like you describe.I put a junkyard one out of a smashed distributor and it cured it.

Honda Bull

It probably is something in the ignition. Since you changed sparkplugs, you've still got plenty of things to check. Plug wires (I had a misfire with a bad one, but nothing like what you are going through), cap/rotor/contacts, ignitor, ignition module, etc. Distributor issues suck. Hopefully you can figure it out.

Well, before doing anything drastic, do compression and leakdown tests. It's probably harmless oil, but the tests will tell you most of what you need to know.

For the leakdown test, when you pressurize the cylinder with the air, and see good numbers through the gauge (<10%), then you're fine. If one is bad, you'll be able to hear what the problem may be.

If you hear (you'll faintly hear it, so listen carefully) the compressed air in the exhaust pipe, exhaust valve(s) are in poor condition. If you hear it intake (disconnect the charge pipe and listen through the throttle body), then your intake valve(s) are in poor condition. If you can hear the compressed air coming out of the crankcase (open up your oil fill), then the ring(s) and/or headgasket are probably in bad shape.

Death_to_Thieves

Hopefully it's not a distributor issue since this one is less than 1 year old. Im going to replace the tube seals since the oil is on top of the plugs.

Dont think it is a HG since I dont have any overheating issues or mixing of oil and coolant.
Before I get to ahead of myself I'll start with thos tube seals and go from there.

Thanks to all for their advice and help.

-Jaysem

Death_to_Thieves

changed seals and plugs again. same thing. dizzy is next