the rook

Any first hand experience with ssauto chrome turbo kits on a D series? Turbo kit.Com and phearable.net offer a turbonetics for $2000. SS is considerably less expensive buthan I'm curious if it's junk or not. Thanks.

Schister66

Its junk. Complete and total crap

For comparison - a standard Garrett T3/T04 50 trim is $731.25 from Full Race: http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo...e-turbo-1.html

Whereas the entire pile of this junk is only $500: http://www.ebay.com/itm/B-SERIES-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-CAST-MANIFOLD-KIT-B16-B18-B20-INTEGRA-DC2-CIVIC-EM1-/150478543521?hash=item2309385aa1&vxp=mtr
What do you think? Ever heard the saying "if its too good to be true, it probably is"? Well, it applies here...

the rook

I figured but thought I'd ask.

So any suggestions for a complete kit that's affordable? Like I said, I saw the turbonetics kit for 2grand. It has a garret upgrade option. Is that about as inexpensive as I'll be able to get the kit? Are there any other recommendations in a similar price range?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The two biggest companies still dealing with the Honda market in the way of complete kits are Go-Autoworks, and RCAutoworks(?). They have all the equipment including return lines, feed lines, clamps and couplers.

Yes you can piece together one, but only if you know exactly what you're looking for and have an idea about assembly.. So if this is your first, I'd go for the above companies.

But remember, these kits don't include other parts like injectors, fuel pulls, turbo oil filters, or engine management.. That's for you to fill those gaps.

Schister66

Pre-packaged turbo kits are convenient for a first-time turbo build, but most people here have pieced their setups together. I'd still recommend buying certain things as combinations, but other than that, you can source all of the same parts as the people slapping these kits together.

Mani, dp, dump should be bought together while keeping turbo selection in mind. Injectors & pump are based on fuel type and power level. Oil lines are fairly standard. IC and piping is more chassis-specific, but can easily be customized to fit.

Research is key - read the https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...2A%2A-1024174/

the rook

Thanks for the tips. Go Auto is one of the kits I looked at on turbokits.Com and phearable.net. I have some fuel travel in mind. I've inquired and figured out I need a p28 upgrade. But I didn't think about turbo oil filter. Good to know. Any recommendations for fuel pump and injector size if I'm trying to make around 225-250hp?

Schister66

Walbro 255lph will make 500whp on pump gas and that's the smallest pump to upgrade to. Injectors for that range are 440-550cc. The easy math is 6cc per whp to get a minimum size established. The math is as follows: If you want 250whp, then 250x6=1500cc .... 1500cc / 4inj = 375cc minimum. This only allows you to ballpark where your choices should fall. I'd definitely recommend upsizing from what this equation says.

Wahski

Also heard good things about Go Autoworks. If I ever turbo my EM1 I'll probably go with them. It helps they're right down the interstate from me.

the rook

Well I looked at some skunk2 550cc injectors. And if the injectors and pump are bigger than necessary I can still tune it down to the specs I want correct? Better to have it and not need it than need it and not have it?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Junk2 </p><p>So many better options.</p>

Schister66

Don't bother with Skunk2 - go with Precision, Delphi, Bosch, Injector Dynamics, etc.

And yes, if the pump and injectors are oversized, the tuner will dial back the duty cycle on the injectors. The excess fuel from the larger pump will bypass the FPR and recirc back to the tank. Its better to be too big than run out of injector; however, if you get TOO big, then you start having idling issues....not a concern with anything under 1000cc though.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

The Grams aren't bad. I've utilized about a dozen sets. They're bosch-style like the others, just different top-hats.

The question is the fuel you're using. Going E85, go much larger than you think. Staying with 93 octane? slightly larger Rochester/Lucas or some Bosch also.

I'm with Siemen Deka at 540whp, and I don't need to change for a nice while until I switch to Haltech. Even then I'm going direct with Bosch, and skipping the whole FIC vs ID vs. Five-0 stuff.

theYBLEGAL

Go autoworks is great. I use their parts. I have intercooler piping, an intercooler, and a radiator from them. Great quality.

I'd recommend piecing it together. It's not that hard. Just don't be super trigger happy buying parts. When you ask the right questions, people have no problem responding nicely either It's ok to ask..

Junk 2 is a good way to put it. Skunk 2 is not above average quality. They are average to below average depending on the category of part you're looking at.

Big hint, companies that make only 1 or 2 parts, or parts for just one area like just suspension, are the ones you want to deal with. The ones that diversify into every single part the car has, generally cut corners and are more about the margins. For instance, Tein, only suspension. Brian Crower, only cams. Eagle Rods, rods only. Get my drift?

Though Bosh is a sensor powerhouse, that's their specialties. So small electrical controlled things are their forte. Bosh injectors are nice. So are the rest Schister and Shodan are talking about.

But ya, cheapest IMO, piece it together. Get a DSM turbo, something small, rebuild it, usually cheap. Get a cast log manifold, they are cheap and strong. Do NOT cheap out on wastegate. Tial is best IMO. A blow off valve is not even required if you really want to cut corners, but I'd say get one. ****, an intercooler is not even required, but they are cheap from go autoworks, as well as the piping kits.

You can get some DSM injectors, find a tuner to tune on crome free, and you could be turbo for less than $1,500 if you turn most of the wrenches. Reliable power...

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I can agree to a point.. Definitely not the DSM turbo. I wouldn't touch them with a 50 ft pole. even with eBay parts (which is all that are left for those things, and even then, you can get a crappy replacement DSM knock-off for a few hundred bucks more), they don't survive long after going into the junkyard.

I literally gave away 6 DSM turbochargers to someone who just "SWORE" they could rebuild them in a way I couldn't/wouldn't. He later got scrap money for them when he gave them to the junkyard and made over $100 for all 6.

As for Grams, we can simply agree to disagree. I'm ok with that. Its the OP's choice either way. its all semantics in the end, as we aren't building the car for him.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>Brian Crower...ew, no. &nbsp;Crower yes, Brian Crower no. &nbsp;One is a damn good company. &nbsp;The other is the son who tried to offshoot his own thing.</p>

theYBLEGAL

Idk my dsm turbo off a 91 eagle talon is fine. Rebuilt with emotors ebay kit 2 years ago. Daily'd rather hard. Raced on too. But I don't spool it very high rotationally at only 5-10psi.

My fault stating brian crower. Bad example then.

Grams might be the way to go as well. Point was, skunk 2 has their hands too many places

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

only 5-10psi. So no thrust loads at all. No wonder its lasted that long. I've 14bs and 16Gs last for 10 years when cared for. Thats at 18-30psi. Real MHI parts is all I'll use. Since that's next to impossible over the last 4 years, I just won't touch 'em. Let someone else handle those things with eBay nonsense.

theYBLEGAL

Ya I hear ya. I rolled the dice, $60 bucks later, I've milked 2 more years of use out of it. I've had 4 years of total fun with it so far. When it ***** seals, I'll buy a real turbo. The 14b was free. Most are, for the reasons you've outlined.

I have more confidence in it than a full ebay casting. F that, last thing I want is turbine fan disintegration.

Ya, low load on my turbo tho.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

the rook

I'm really liking all the feedback that I'm getting from you guys. As far as the piecing it together thing goes I would say that that might even be better for me because coming up with two grand off the cuff isn't the easiest thing in the world to do for the middle class American. Lol. I did have someone offer me a garret t3 turbo with a cast-iron manifold and he said it was the same style that they used to use on Volvo and that they were known for their reliability. I know that Garrett is a quality brand. I feel as if it would be worthwhile to go ahead and do a blow off valve and an intercooler. I'm definitely not trying to go cheap as hell at risk of damaging my ride. I'm trying to find the balance between value and quality. I'm definitely taking notes from you guys and I really appreciate the information.