hi guys,

im looking at trying to get more torque out of the mighty b18 without having to up the boost if possible.. any fellow tuners got any tips? was thinking maybe adjustable pulleys might allow to tweek the cam timing perhaps to squeeze some more torque out of it..?

heres the brief spec of the motor and dyno graph..


JDM 96 spec Integra type-R

b18c
wiseco forged pistons
eagle rods
ITR head
ITR camshafts and stock pulleys
ITR inlet manifold
ITR throttle body
ITR flywheel
ITR gearbox/LSD
garrett t3/t4 57 trim
tial 38mm ext w/s
AFI ramhorn manifold
AFI 3" downpipe
custom full 3" stainless exhaust system (turbo back)
garrett core backdoor style fmic
Omni 4bar map sensor
hks evc5 boost controller

mapped on eCtune at 1.2bar boost (97 pump gas)

dyno graph (452bhp @ flywheel) :

 

Not really. As I stated in your other thread, you may have to do it the old fashioned way of actually changing displacement as to where the best torqueband comes in.

NOW.. I do know that many have used a different final drive as a good torque multiplier, like in rally cars in Group A, but it can't be shown as a representation on a dyno graph because it only shows 1 gear in optimal conditions. I'll see I have the torque multiplier data handy, but its not in graphical form.

 

More info

 

There is no more info. Either Change your displcement, (including BORE & STROKE) or use a torque multiper such as a final driver to give a better torque BAND. The drawback is you shift more often, but the rpm range falls right into the torqueband of the car.

That's all one can do. This thread should be over already.

 

That looks like one of Piv"s torque curves
At a guess he's also been careful with the timing?
You have 300lbft for approximately 3000 rpm that's got to feel quick.

Eddie

 

That's a pretty sick powerband already, IDK what you can do to better what you are already putting down... Remember your driving an I-4 not a V-8.

 

Just curious, is that real brake HP - meaning measured on an engine dyno where the crank bolts right up to it? Or is it just whp multiplied by ~15% to give a very rough idea of crank HP?


IMO the only way to get more torque is to ditch the ancient turbo technology and get something like a Holset or Borg-Warner. That's assuming you don't wnat to change the fuel you use to something like C16 or Q16.

 

Larger exhaust. Better turbo. Better intake manifold. Better Throttle Body.

 

i can only think of 4 ways you can get what you want
1. get an ls tranny
2. change to smaller hotside
3. change to a smaller turbo or a turbo around the same size but better technology
4 change to a divided manifold and or #3

 

How is LS gearing going to increase his torque? What your suggesting will do the exact opposite of what he wants to do...

 

That will probably be coast down and correction factors calculated as you thought.
In the UK they tend to run 4th gear pulls on a Honda as it’s the closest to 1:1.
Not sure how to work back the numbers between calculation standards such as SAE etc.

 

I agree, this will actually affect his acceleration rate negatively.

 

when you said change the final drive what would you suggest? I thought you meant change to an ls is why i said that.

 

Gear multiplication means spinning the output slower at the same input speed. So that means a "shorter" tranny, like a B16 being shorter than a GSR. But with that much HP, he'll need to shift into 5th in the 400m (1/4 mile) with a b16 trans. Unless you have an F1 tranny, it can actually slow you down.


1:1 through the main & counter shafts, but you still have an additional 4.x:1 reduction through the diff. You'd need the rollers to be exactly 4.x times bigger than your tires to get an exact 1:1. Then considering low-pressure slicks will sap a lot more power than the stock pizza-cutters, quoting brake HP on a chassis dyno is just retarded.

 

What intake Manifold do you currently run? I was able to change my TQ on my 81mm stock sleeved B18c by a change of IM.

 

I certainly don't disagree with you, the point being, this is how it's done a vast majority of the time in the UK, retarded or not.
Ultimately, a dyno is a tool for tuning, the numbers produced only serve as a guide for outputs, and we all know the real proof of power output will be track times.
I also think the opening post is ambiguous, there has to be a reason why you would want more torque, mainly what application, road, circuit, drag or auto x, surely that’s going to dictate the shape of the curve.