VTcivicHB

Being the poor college student that I am I can't figure what to do with my 350$. I have to drive from Texas to Vermont twice a year so I want to make my car as reliable as a turbo D can get.

I can't turn down the boost (internal wastegate) and I need the car to last for awhile. My clutch is slipping really bad when I get on it and shift but in normal driving it does okay. I'm looking into a ACT HDSS.

I haven't had the turbo on long and i think that my head is lifting a little because I was watching a video of my car and I saw some white smoke coming from the exhaust which leads me to believe the head is lifting. I can make more money during the summer and I don't want to have to hold off to do both at once. let me know what you think my next step should be.

Setup:
T25 on stock D16y7 @ 10 psi
uberdata tuned
RC 440's
JRC 6" intercooler
stock clutch

boostincoupe

ACT HDSS clutch, all day long.

HamiltonRex

Get a new clutch.. When a clutch goes it sucks Happened to me.

platinum00

always replace and maintain exsisting parts before getting new ones.

spend the money on keeping the car running and get the clutch.

take some timing out of your map if your lifting your head.

platinum.

VTcivicHB

The tuner told me he took off a degree per pound of boost, so I think my timing is in the clear. As far as driving the clutch is driveable, but I'm not to sure if the head is lifting and might cause problems when I drive cross country

StolenTeg

Stay outta boost but i know it impossible to do, so change the clutch and take it *easy*

platinum00

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VTcivicHB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The tuner told me he took off a degree per pound of boost, so I think my timing is in the clear. As far as driving the clutch is driveable, but I'm not to sure if the head is lifting and might cause problems when I drive cross country</TD></TR></TABLE>

not necessarily, D series are whack sometimes...

whats your base timing?

whats your total timing?

what ECU and base map did you start with?

all of these need to be dead on with the D series or you can have head lifting problems. i used to have the same problem at only 9psi and was pulling alot more timing per lb then you.

platinum.

VTcivicHB

yeah my tuner wouldn't give me a map of my timing/fuel, I'm still kinda pissed he told me there was "no way he could get it off the computer" and I sort of hate having to take his word for it.

For the most part I can stay outta boost cause its highway driving but I just don't want to get stranded if you get what i mean.

Drew Peacock

It wasn't just condensation? I often have white smoke coming out my exhaust especially when its cold theres no problem though. Defintely clutch

TURBOELEMENTS IKE

buy just the clutch disk, and take the rest and buy arp studs, and torque the head down.

mike93eh

is your coolant resevoir bottle overflowing? if no, then your head isnt lifting. but that doesnt mean you dont have a blown headgasket or something else.

Everyones Hero

OT: What tuning program are you using? If you're using uber or crome you can get the moates.net burner and read the rom off of your chip.

I would get the headgasket and headstuds. That should only cost you about 130 or so. Headgasket- $60, ARP studs- $80.

That leaves you a little over $200 to put towards your new clutch or whatever.

BTW- I've heard bad things about one brand of clutch. I can't remember if it was ACT or Exedy or another brand.

Joseph Davis

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by platinum00 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

not necessarily, D series are whack sometimes...

whats your base timing?

whats your total timing?

what ECU and base map did you start with?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Somebody local to this guy, buy this man a beer. Buy him two.

Y7 = Y8 cyl head, for all intents and purposes.

Most SOHC basemaps are done off of OBD1 code dumps.

There is a nice thread on PGMFI where the OBD2 P2P (EX) code dumps revealed radically different ignition timing maps for the Y8. Combustion takes place at a different rate, since both port and chamber design are different, than the D15B7/D16Z6 most people are getting their maps from.

Slimm-rw-

I say wait and see which takes a **** first. If its the clutch, go clutch. if you blow the HG, do that. But dont' spend it prematurely, or you might not have the $$ when its necessary

Boosted Power

If your car is tuned properly and set up properly, then the chances of your head gasket going is slim. Unless your car is like 200k miles or something or had an abusive pass.
I say, do your clutch. Cause in order for you to keep using the power long, you'll need it sooner or later.
You can save the money for the head gasket and while you're replacing that, throw in some ARP head studs.