tclmember

I'm currently considering going turbo on my h23a1 for now, then later on build a jdm h22a and turbo that.

But for the time being, I was hoping to get some specific questions answered:

1. If I piece together a turbo, the only thing I'd have to change when I switch to h22a would be the turbo manifold, correct?
All intercooler piping, wastegate, dumptube/downpipe?( I'm still learning), will all be the same?

2. Do you know of any ps/ac compatible turbo manifolds? I've heard of lovefab? and another that starts with an h, can't remember the name, but most I've seen aren't ac/ps compatible.I don't really want to get rid of it, and I know that lessens the options I have, but does anybody know of any that are currently being made?

Thanks for any and all input!

Slacker93eg

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/%2A%2A%2Aforced-induction-forum-faq%2A%2A%2A-1024174/

tclmember

I've lived in that htread for the past couple of days. That doesn't specifically answer my question. But I appreciate the input!

carnot

Generally speaking a log type manifold will allow you to retain ps/ac. You have probably heard/read this before but before you start your project you should figure out how much power you would like to make or how much money you have to work with. When going with a turbo setup you can build either the h23 or h22 to meet your goals and since you already have an h23 it may make sense to build that. Let us know what your goals are..

tclmember

Okay, so with the h23 I's like ~230 whp.
Money wise, I guess it's not too much of a worry since I'll be buying parts over a period of time. I'll recuperate by the time I get a next part. Once I start buying, that is. The thing is For sure I'm going to buy a h22a and build that on the side. But that's after I've completed the turbo on my h23, everything completely stock.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

I think your missing the point carnot was trying to make.....You don't need to waste money on an H22, why?
Just so you can say you have an H22 Dohc Vtec?

You can make as much power as you want/would with an H23 as an H22.

You will spend $2000+ the cost to build the bottom end on an H22

You could Buy another H23 block, spend that $2000 to get it sleeved and have forged rods and pistons, then slap that block in. With the right turbo set up and tune you can make 500+ whp for a lot less money than swapping in an H22 first.

Plus if your power goal is 230 whp, ****, you can make more than that by sticking a leaf blower to the intake of your H23, no Build or swap needed, Just a small turbo set up and your done.

tclmember

Yeah, Idk I just really wanted vtec with turbo. BUt I suppose if I can make as much, if not more power, without having to sleeve the block, stock, then hell, why not?

It makes complete sense now, I don't know why I didn't understand when carnot said it lol.

That makes more sense now. But the only problem is the lower redline on the h23 is the only downfall that I can see, that would make me choose the h22 over the h23. May not be much, but it seems like a big difference to me. I don't expect to be reving to 10k either, just maybe 8k tops, if that.

According to a squirrel performance calculator, I'd need 7.6 psi to make assuming my peak power is at 5800, redline at 6500, and max boost at 4000 rpm. I'd only have 2k rpm of boost? seems like it's not much. But then again it is only for dd.

I appreciate the input, though, it made me re think my future plans drastically. I think I'd prolly prefer spending the extra money i would've spent buying the h22, plus sleeving, to just sleeve an h23 and build the bottom end.

EDIT: lol, wow i'm blind, he specifically said to build the h23 since I already have it lol. I'd have to start fresh however, i think 13x,xxx miles is a little too high?

Whiterice-gsr

this is where i would disagree with these guys, i would always start with the platform i wanted. however if your goals are only 230 your jdm h22a already makes 220 at the crank. why not drop in your h22 and leave it n/a, with a few bolt ons and a tune you'd be where u want to be.

tclmember

True, but the thing is, knowing me, I know I'll want more power lol. Maybe even 300 whp. I'm just setting a realistic goal to reach for the time being, just to get the satisfaction that I accomplished it. Then from there, I'll take on more. I just want to be able to have the potential to go for more power if i choose to do so.

boosted_D

iTrader: (1)

I get it, if you really want an H22 then go for it, nothing wrong with having what you want man. Personally I would build the H23, sleeves and all, and spend a little less on a big power set up. I'm a cheap *** tho LOL i wouldn't worry too much about how high you can rev the motor, a built bottom end H23 with a big turbo, like a large 60-1 or gt35R will spool one Hell of a lot faster than any d or b motor will.

tclmember

Yeah but I reconsidered it. It's just gonna cost me a lot more. Because I have to buy the engine and on top of that I gotta build it. Well it comes down to being the same thing lol. I gotta get another h23 block to build. But then again Maye I could just rebuild the one I got? But who knows. Well yeah I ain't no big roller neither haha. I guess I'm sort of a cheap *** as well lol.
But for a dd stock h23, that'd be too big of a turbo. Right? Is there a smaller one that is more of what I'm looking for? I think like a t3/t4 50 trim? Idk. I just heard that ball bearing aren't rebuild able that it costs just as much to replace the cartridge as almost a new turbo I think.

Whiterice-gsr

buy a usdm h22 bolt on a kit, tune to 350 and enjoy lol.

tclmember

Unfortunately, I'm not swimming in money lol.
I'd go for a kit, except that it doesn't include everything that's needed from what I've seen and read, and it costs a Shiet load more lol.

carnot

I was in your same position about 10 years ago and I think the best decision I made then was to build the bottom end of the h23 I had; Darton sleeves, forged pistons and rods. I am still driving the same bottom end today every day to work. The first time I got the motor tuned I stopped at ~280whp. After a few years, and some slight modifications, re-tuned and now make 320whp. If you build the bottom end from the start it will give you reliability and room to add more power later if you choose.

tclmember

That actually sounds like a good idea. It makes sense as well. Just do it right the first time. I just then have to spend money bringing this engine back up to par. Cuz it has a few problems I think, I fixed an oil leak it had, I fixed a coolant leak. I went to get my valves adjusted, but ever since then the engine never idled the same it sounds loud and it's just idk weird. And also, if I stall the car or if I drive fast, and then just cut off the motor, I can't start it back up it cranks starts as dies off.

tclmember

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=69784705224

Is this a good buy??