turbo advice
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: big flats, new york, united states
Hello guys
I hate to make this kind of thread as they are posted all the time. But I am straight up stumped with what turbo I should chose for my build. My build is a H2B (stock bottom end). Heads ported ARPs. either S2 intake mani or Euro R just looking for a good deal on one or the other. Im looking to make around 400-450. I have been looking at using a HX35 or a 60-1. What would you guys recommend on this? either the 2 I was thinking about or something else that would for my build.
Also am I shooting for too much on a stock bottom end H22 I have had a few LSV that have been in the 400s with stock bottoms, im just a little worried since i have never ran a H22 before and have been reading that the ring lands can be weak and the FRM sleeves I just don't want to sleeve the motor at this time just to add weiscos. Any advice would also be greatful
Thank You guys in advance
I hate to make this kind of thread as they are posted all the time. But I am straight up stumped with what turbo I should chose for my build. My build is a H2B (stock bottom end). Heads ported ARPs. either S2 intake mani or Euro R just looking for a good deal on one or the other. Im looking to make around 400-450. I have been looking at using a HX35 or a 60-1. What would you guys recommend on this? either the 2 I was thinking about or something else that would for my build.
Also am I shooting for too much on a stock bottom end H22 I have had a few LSV that have been in the 400s with stock bottoms, im just a little worried since i have never ran a H22 before and have been reading that the ring lands can be weak and the FRM sleeves I just don't want to sleeve the motor at this time just to add weiscos. Any advice would also be greatful
Thank You guys in advance
That power depend upon the girl you plan to run. I recommend staying below about 59lbs/min using a better flowing turbine wheel than your standard 60-1 wheel.
About 300whp on stock sleeves is about as good as you're going to get. The FRM sleeves are completely different from the b-series you're used to. Even with aftermarket rods and pistons.
About 300whp on stock sleeves is about as good as you're going to get. The FRM sleeves are completely different from the b-series you're used to. Even with aftermarket rods and pistons.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 935
Likes: 1
From: big flats, new york, united states
That power depend upon the girl you plan to run. I recommend staying below about 59lbs/min using a better flowing turbine wheel than your standard 60-1 wheel.
About 300whp on stock sleeves is about as good as you're going to get. The FRM sleeves are completely different from the b-series you're used to. Even with aftermarket rods and pistons.
About 300whp on stock sleeves is about as good as you're going to get. The FRM sleeves are completely different from the b-series you're used to. Even with aftermarket rods and pistons.
Thanks for the input. Now I need to put my build under the microscope and decide if I'm going to sleeve this motor now.
Would swapping to a F20b get me to my power goals with iron sleeves?
The 60-1 is limited to about 460whp or so due to its exhaust wheel at over 23psi of boost pressure. There are better turbo options out there.
Going through a bore scope to see if your H22 is a waste of time. the answer is for your goals, yes, you need to sleeve.
Last edited by TheShodan; Dec 26, 2014 at 07:46 AM.
The F20B question I cannot answer simply because in my area those engines are rarer and are not used often enough to come to a reasonable consensus, like with the other B-series.
The 60-1 is limited to about 460whp or so due to its exhaust wheel at over 23psi of boost pressure. There are better turbo options out there.
Going through a bore scope to see if your H22 is a waste of time. the answer is for your goals, yes, you need to sleeve.
The 60-1 is limited to about 460whp or so due to its exhaust wheel at over 23psi of boost pressure. There are better turbo options out there.
Going through a bore scope to see if your H22 is a waste of time. the answer is for your goals, yes, you need to sleeve.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that. You're stretching my explanation of the utilization of this turbo. There's a difference between it can be done with this turbo, vs, whether or not it should be done with the 60-1. I'm pointing out that the 60-1 is rather archaic and flawed, and there are better alternatives to that in the Garrett, BW, and Turbonetics camp that do a much better job. 425hp is on the edge of efficiency.. not the beginning.
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I ran my stock bottom h22 at 400whp (pump gas) for over a year/10k miles without a single problem and it was full throttle a couple times every day. 300whp is nothing on a healthy, stock bottom end. It made 450 on e85 just by changing fuel.
successful stock bottom end turbo builds come from an efficient turbo SYSTEM, using modern injectors and a tuner who has a clue.
successful stock bottom end turbo builds come from an efficient turbo SYSTEM, using modern injectors and a tuner who has a clue.
I wouldn't go so far as to say that. You're stretching my explanation of the utilization of this turbo. There's a difference between it can be done with this turbo, vs, whether or not it should be done with the 60-1. I'm pointing out that the 60-1 is rather archaic and flawed, and there are better alternatives to that in the Garrett, BW, and Turbonetics camp that do a much better job. 425hp is on the edge of efficiency.. not the beginning.
Sry, thought he was choosing between the two that's why I chose the 60-1. And I run it myself at the same power but im Sure yal hav a better turbo suggestion for his car cuz I've never run this setup
Last edited by ek9_beast; Dec 27, 2014 at 01:59 PM.
Yea.. I know.. the 60-1 is a cheap turbo option.. Can be picked up for about the price of a super60.. But like Mac said, its not the best choice out there.
COMPRESSOR MAPS
It looks that way. You can compare the 50, 57, 60 trim to see the relative breadth of their maps in comparison to the 60-1.
COMPRESSOR MAPS
COMPRESSOR MAPS
The 60-1 map is taller and narrower than the 57 trim meaning that it has a narrower operating efficiency, but it is still capable of more power than a 57 or 60 trim. To add to this, the 60-1 also has a lower boost threshold. Its compressor map maxes out at 2.8PR while the 57trim is nearly at 3.2PR
Also, you would have hated a 60-1 on a D series. It would have spooled in 3rd gear and given you a 2k rpm powerband, at which point you would shift and begin the wait for boost all over again.
They're not really that similar - The 57 trim is a 50lb/min turbo whereas the 60-1 is a 60lb/min turbocharger.
The 60-1 map is taller and narrower than the 57 trim meaning that it has a narrower operating efficiency, but it is still capable of more power than a 57 or 60 trim. To add to this, the 60-1 also has a lower boost threshold. Its compressor map maxes out at 2.8PR while the 57trim is nearly at 3.2PR
Also, you would have hated a 60-1 on a D series. It would have spooled in 3rd gear and given you a 2k rpm powerband, at which point you would shift and begin the wait for boost all over again.
The 60-1 map is taller and narrower than the 57 trim meaning that it has a narrower operating efficiency, but it is still capable of more power than a 57 or 60 trim. To add to this, the 60-1 also has a lower boost threshold. Its compressor map maxes out at 2.8PR while the 57trim is nearly at 3.2PR
Also, you would have hated a 60-1 on a D series. It would have spooled in 3rd gear and given you a 2k rpm powerband, at which point you would shift and begin the wait for boost all over again.
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