Azndude1983

Turbo Accord revs up to 5000 rpms on its own, back to 500 rpm, then repeats. Using V-AFC II with Synapse Missing Link and a FMU to handle air/fuel on this turbo Accord setup. Drove it with this setup and it ran fine but with a fuel smell. Took it back to the garage, reseated the injectors, then started it back up and this new problem began to occur.

We have reset the ECU. No luck. Same behavior.

Tried disconnecting the V-AFC II, which caused the car to rev to 5000rpms a single time then engine stop.

Tried disconnecting the factory TPS which caused the car to rev to 5000rpms a single time them engine stop.

Any ideas on why my car revs up to 5000 rpms the moment I start it, drops to 500 rpms, and immediately back up to 5000 rpms again, repeating the process until I turn the car off?

f1 vtec

Your TPS needs calibrating, also check the throttle cable just in case its too tight.

earl

I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere in the system also.

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere in the system also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I agree. Sounds like your brake booster line straight fell off or something

z06

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by f1 vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Your TPS needs calibrating, also check the throttle cable just in case its too tight.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where can we find out more about calibrating the TPS on a F23A Accord? I'm helping my bro out on this.

z06

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I would look for a vacuum leak somewhere in the system also.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The only leak we have at the moment is on the boost gauge on the pillar. Would a leak on the boost gauge's vacuum input cause this?

Laserjock

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by z06 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The only leak we have at the moment is on the boost gauge on the pillar. Would a leak on the boost gauge's vacuum input cause this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Cap, that line of unless you're using it to diagnose your problem.

I would check the injector orings again for leaks since that was what you changed last. Basic problem solving there. I had a piece of throttle body gasket stuck between the TB and IM, took a tuner (Jason Hunt) to find it besides the 3 or so days i spent looking for misplaced vaccum lines and switching out TB

per4mance

iTrader: (1)

cheack your fast idle valve. They can get loose and stay open, and that will cause it to leak around the copper plate on the back side if it.

Azndude1983

Whoo..found the problem. We didn't install the O rings in the Fuel Injectors that go between the Injectors and the Engine's holes. The reason because at first, we had the O rings that came with the injectors and they weren't good or something cause on of the injectors was leaking fuel. We tried to adjust/reseat the injectors and test drove it but still leaking. So i thought that if we take off all the O rings and see if that will prevent from leaking. ( I know, why did i even do that??? Well, believe it or not, i've installed the injectors without the O rings before and they worked fine, no oil leak whatsoever) But somehow this time we tried to installed them back without the O rings. THat was when the problem came in. So I had a friend came over and we all went to Autozone and found some new O rings that will fit the Injectors perfectly and reinstalled them back..Car worked and run perfectly. Thanks for the help GUys (well, we're still working on the tuning Air/Fuel) Well, hope you guys learned something on this subject cause I sure did LEARN something New

Laserjock

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Cap, that line of unless you're using it to diagnose your problem.

I would check the injector orings again for leaks since that was what you changed last. Basic problem solving there. I had a piece of throttle body gasket stuck between the TB and IM, took a tuner (Jason Hunt) to find it besides the 3 or so days i spent looking for misplaced vaccum lines and switching out TB </TD></TR></TABLE>

donation$ to it0ldjooso@paypal.com

SOHC_MShue

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Azndude1983 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Whoo..found the problem. We didn't install the O rings in the Fuel Injectors that go between the Injectors and the Engine's holes. The reason because at first, we had the O rings that came with the injectors and they weren't good or something cause on of the injectors was leaking fuel. We tried to adjust/reseat the injectors and test drove it but still leaking. So i thought that if we take off all the O rings and see if that will prevent from leaking. ( I know, why did i even do that??? Well, believe it or not, i've installed the injectors without the O rings before and they worked fine, no oil leak whatsoever) But somehow this time we tried to installed them back without the O rings. THat was when the problem came in. So I had a friend came over and we all went to Autozone and found some new O rings that will fit the Injectors perfectly and reinstalled them back..Car worked and run perfectly. Thanks for the help GUys (well, we're still working on the tuning Air/Fuel) Well, hope you guys learned something on this subject cause I sure did LEARN something New </TD></TR></TABLE>
injector o-rings are important

Azndude1983

sure thing. I didn't think them rings are really important but it can scare the hell out of you when you crank on the Engine.

Azndude1983

Have you guys ever used VAFC2 for Air/FUel before?.. WEll, i'm using narrowband o2 sensor but it works like ****. The light keeps going up and down between rich and lean. That scares the hell out of me. I'll be looking for a good Wideband 02 pretty soon. As of right now, I hope someone can help me on the tuning. I have a bro helps me out on tuning the AFC while i'm driving. We tried sever diff methods. Tried put as much fuel as possible in the engine at first cause we think that it's better flooded the engine then no fuel at all (engine explode), tried lower the fuel pressur down and so on with sever diff runs. Car still doesn't kick in right. Some times it went up to 3K rpm, sometimes 4 but never passed 4. IF some of you guys have the correct adjustment on the AFC2, please share it. If you're asking about what i'm running with the AFC then i'm using 450cc DSM. WAs using 450cc, FMU, Missing Link and AFC but lots of peole told me that's wrong. THey will cancel each other out. For example, AFC needs to read boost inorder to adjust the fuel but if using MIssing Link then it will hide boost from the ECU then AFC woundn't see any boost pressure from turbo at all. The guy told me i can either use 1) AFC2 with 450cc or 2) FMU, Missing Link and Stock Injectors. Tell me what you guys think and help if you know how to correct the adj on AFC2. Damn, wish i have the wideband Thanks