Tuning and nitrous
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Tuning and nitrous
I have a '96 LS Teg that I recently converted to OBD-1 and tuned it with CROME. We hooked up a wideband and used the Ostrich from Moates. We didn't touch ignition, only tuned the fuel map so I now have close to 13.8-13.9 a/f ratio all throughout the powerband. It was a definite improvement.
I just bought an n2o kit as well as NGK BKR7E (colder) plugs and an adjustable fpr from B&M.
Nothing is installed yet but after I put in the plugs and hook up the fpr, I plan to retard my timing by 2 degrees. So my question is, should I retune my car after these mods and the retard timing or keep the same fuel map as is? I want to run nitrous safely and I know my car will probably run like crap with the plugs and extra fuel so shuold I try and tune it and lean it out?
Thanks guys.
Modified by LSntegra at 7:23 PM 2/22/2006
I just bought an n2o kit as well as NGK BKR7E (colder) plugs and an adjustable fpr from B&M.
Nothing is installed yet but after I put in the plugs and hook up the fpr, I plan to retard my timing by 2 degrees. So my question is, should I retune my car after these mods and the retard timing or keep the same fuel map as is? I want to run nitrous safely and I know my car will probably run like crap with the plugs and extra fuel so shuold I try and tune it and lean it out?
Thanks guys.
Modified by LSntegra at 7:23 PM 2/22/2006
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Re: Tuning and nitrous (LSntegra)
uhh from my understanding you dont want it to be at stoich while at WOT i would tune it at around 13.5-13.8. Is it a wet kit?
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Re: (LSntegra)
i would defiantely ditch the dry shot or at least convert it to a wet shot it makes things much easier. I know a few companies make the conversions kits realitively cheap
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How does it "make things easier"?
Dry shot is easier to install then wet, not much of a diff I guess though.
If you mean safer to run a higher wet shot then I agree.
Dry shot is easier to install then wet, not much of a diff I guess though.
If you mean safer to run a higher wet shot then I agree.
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Re: (LSntegra)
because if this a daily driver and you are running a dry shot have it tuned for a dry shot it will run pig rich all the time, while if you had a wet shot you could tune the car when not on nitrous and when nitrous is engaged all you need to do it have the appropriate fuel jet in there and you wont lose the ability to drive it normally...
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Re: (LSntegra)
can't believe nobody has said anything........if you're car is that lean at WOT, your gonna seriously hurt the motor, and you're defnitely down on power.
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Re: (JSpin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JSpin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">can't believe nobody has said anything........if you're car is that lean at WOT, your gonna seriously hurt the motor, and you're defnitely down on power.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i said that in more first post,mind you he isnt boosted so a 12:1 a/f isnt needed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont want it to be at stoich while at WOT i would tune it at around 13.5-13.8.</TD></TR></TABLE>
i said that in more first post,mind you he isnt boosted so a 12:1 a/f isnt needed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Soccerking3000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you dont want it to be at stoich while at WOT i would tune it at around 13.5-13.8.</TD></TR></TABLE>
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Re: (7rrivera7)
no, it raises the fuel pressure essentially making it an fmu and we all know how good those are. AT THE LEAST get a wet kit unless you are running a standalone with a fuel map just for nitrous...
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