Trying to disconnect my vafc for uberdata
Yesterday i got my turbo setup finally finished and put in. After taking out the motor taking off the jrsc and old tranny putting all the new **** on... new turbo, tranny etc. I got started the car right up. This was on my stock obd2 ecu running the vafc.
Today i setup everthing for my uberdata basemap plugged in the harness and new obd1 ecu. I left my vafc wired in to the stock harness cause i didn't know how or what wires to disconnect. I figured i'd give it a try with the vafc still wired in. It started up... but bogged down right away. Is anyone here running uberdata/hondata and a vafc? I'm thinking not. Right now i dont have the instructions anymore to my vafc so i don't know what to disconnect and reconnect on the stock harness so my uberdata can work right. Any suggestions or help on what i should do? Thanks...
Today i setup everthing for my uberdata basemap plugged in the harness and new obd1 ecu. I left my vafc wired in to the stock harness cause i didn't know how or what wires to disconnect. I figured i'd give it a try with the vafc still wired in. It started up... but bogged down right away. Is anyone here running uberdata/hondata and a vafc? I'm thinking not. Right now i dont have the instructions anymore to my vafc so i don't know what to disconnect and reconnect on the stock harness so my uberdata can work right. Any suggestions or help on what i should do? Thanks...
were you using the afc hack previously? if you were, you need to zero out the fuel settings.
or else... http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...c.pdf
or else... http://www.apexi-usa.com/produ...c.pdf
How do i zero everything out? And when i do that... does that mean its just doing nothing after that? It'll be pretty much for show?
setting->wide thr: change the hi and lo values to zero
setting->narr thr: change the hi and lo values to zero
after that the afc will be nothing more than a fancy guage.
setting->narr thr: change the hi and lo values to zero
after that the afc will be nothing more than a fancy guage.
basicly, take the MAP sensor wire that goes to the ECU and reconect the 2 ends (it's the only ecu wire that is cut not just tapped into). then cut off all the rest of the wires and insulate with e-tape. now it's stock again.
Isn't the VTEC Pressure switch and solenoid also cut?
Either way, you can run VAFC and uberdata, just do as he says and 0 everything out. Also it will still control your VTEC activation so set it accordingly. I still use my VAFC for a peak/hold RPM and pressure gauge.
Either way, you can run VAFC and uberdata, just do as he says and 0 everything out. Also it will still control your VTEC activation so set it accordingly. I still use my VAFC for a peak/hold RPM and pressure gauge.
I think setting it to zero would be easiest right now. So once i set it to zero... it has no control over my tuning on the ecu besides vtec engagement correct? Like in the previous post it'll just be a fancy gauge that lights up
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yes, did the same thing with my field vtec controller..it was f**king with my MAP sensor so i just disconected it from the map and am just using it for vtec engaement. no prob.
i have uberdata and still have my vafc hooked up, i never got a chance to tune it at all so i had to make some correections with the vafc, it still works fine and i make over 300 on boost so im not too worried.
you just have to watch out, if you take away a bunch of fuel it adds timing and when you add a bunch of fuel it drops timing,, so its not too bad
you just have to watch out, if you take away a bunch of fuel it adds timing and when you add a bunch of fuel it drops timing,, so its not too bad
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IgniteTeg
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 1, 2002 03:57 AM




