check your anti-freeze level. Also, maybe getiing it retuned. Sometimes when a car tuned at 190 degrees will run different if the temp goes over 200 degrees. It will stall or stumble. What may be rich to you really may be lean. Have it retuned.

 

sounds like some of your problems may be caused by your ECU running in limp mode. if it was tuned before and then threw a code and went into limp mode id say it would be really rich. what o2 sensor are you getting readings from? if its a narrow band or a stock o2 sensor you can't use that as a referance as it is not accurate. if it is an aftermarket o2 did you turn off the o2 heater circut? this would throw a code if you have a wideband in and no factory o2. i would soder any and all connections that were extended. just wraped and covered in electrical tape and cause bad readings or loose connections. i would go over all of the wireing soder every joint, and possibly change TPS sensors as your old one may have gotten damaged from the short. make sure you reset your ECU and when you do the car is already warmed up. good luck

 

the coolant level is fine, and the problem is stemming from some sort of sensor or electrical malfunction, not from tuning.

I have been going over connections I guess I'm just gonna start and solder everything and then go from there... I changed the TPS already after the bad connection. I was running the stock o2, but I guess running so rich fucked it up, it threw a CEL so I bought a bosch universal and wired it up, and the cel went away...but it runs the same. My a/f readings are coming from greddy's "wideband gauge"...which was relatively accurate when I checked it at the dyno. Last night I noticed on my wideband that at 60ish mph, in 5th gear if I put it to the floor, it went about 13.0.... but if I just put it about 1/2 way and let it build boost gradually it stayed about right at 12.0....but then as soon as I got into it all at once, it went lean again. This kinda sounds fuel related, I guess I'll try to check out my pump. I need to get an in car Fuel pressure gauge before I can tell much on that....

thanks again... keep the ideas coming

 

Wastegate or exhaust leak before the O2 sensor?
What did the A/F normally go to @ 60 WOT 5th gear?
A vacuum leak would cause it to run rich at idle. What is your A/F ratio @ idle no loads?
Exhaust leak could too.Extra oxygen telling the O2 "LEAN!" then the ecu fattens it up...

Im curious as to what your A/F ratio looks under different loads.
How come you dont take it back to your tuner and let him play with it a little?

 

This may sound dumb but we are having a similar problem and found it to be a blown headgasket..Do a compression test to be safe..Our car would idle rough and when you would press the gas at low RPM it would bog down real bad and if you got on it, it would break up. We changed it today and its golden now..

 

My felt like that when my main relay was going bad. I pulled it apart and I saw that the solder was cracking.
Replaced it with a new one and no more problem.

 

by the way "pyro problem" said if you have a vacuum leak it will show rich, that is opposite if you have a vacuum leak it will run LEAN. and that actually problably has nothing to do with your problem.

do you have a set of extra plug wires or a coil or both laying around or any friends with any??? im starting to just randomly guess now but try that if you can.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PyroProblem &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Wastegate or exhaust leak before the O2 sensor?
What did the A/F normally go to @ 60 WOT 5th gear?
A vacuum leak would cause it to run rich at idle. What is your A/F ratio @ idle no loads?
Exhaust leak could too.Extra oxygen telling the O2 "LEAN!" then the ecu fattens it up...

Im curious as to what your A/F ratio looks under different loads.
How come you dont take it back to your tuner and let him play with it a little?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think there is a small exhaust leake between the head and the manifold (i think they flange needs milled), but it has been there forever. Normall a/f at 60 wot was like 11.8. I took it to the track last night, and it idled decent and ran good all night. I bested my previous time by .3 seconds. Best time of the night was 12.54 @ 119, 60' were still 2.33 so that sucks. But anyway, that's relevant b/c my 4th pass I lost oil pressure (pump I think) so I'll have to change it before I can continue troubleshooting.