Ekboosten4fun_3

Alright I have been troubleshooting this day and night for 2 months ..no luck...this is my 1st turbo car ever 1st 5 months was great then came home 1 night parked it ..came out the next morning started then stalled only way to keep it running is to barely push throttle...a/f normal...if push throttle will go to 1000 rpms and no further....after bout 7 to 10 mins sound of car and everything changes and a/f goes all the way to 10 at this time I can take my foot off the throttle...but idle surges between probably 200 to 400 rpms....can rev now ....but...flooding bad .....go through hafe tank in 10 miles.....also befor all this vacuum was -22 and now its around -10 .....sputtery and jerky part throttle wot good...cant floor throttle quick....a/fs stay at 10 until the throttle is opened up so much then starts risen and leans out ...can get all the way through rpms if barely push throttle....also dies when stop or clutch in after riden new parts ...fpr...fuel pump..spark plug wires and tons of spark plugs....igniter...coil...new wideband o2...intake and exaulst and throttle body gaskets all sensors did check out when checked them last ..sry long but tryen to include everything....also oil keeps getting bunch of gas in it..
car and mods is......96 ek hatch boosted lsvtecJdm B18B built bottom end with jdm b16a gs r/xsi dual overhead cam vtec head
-JE pistons 9:1 compression
-Scat connecting rods
-Eagle crank
-ACL bearings
-ARP rod bolts
-ARP head studs
-Stock sleeves
-Adjustable cam gears
-Cometic ls vtec headgasket
-NGK sparkplugs
-NGK sparkplug wires
-New distributor
-Skunk 2 radiator
-Skunk 2 downpipe
-Skunk 2 full exaulst
-Pro series intake manifold
-Blox log turbo manifold
-Tial wastegate
-Wastegate dumptube
-Manual boost controller
-BWR double filter oil catch can setup
-Exedy clutch
-BWR lower control arms and subframe brace
-GS R rear disc brakes
-Aem air/fuelratio guage
-Evo boost guage
-S200 leather front seats
-Short shifter
-SI guage cluster
-Light weight flywheel
-GS R transmission
-600 horsepower greddy intercooler
-JDM charge pipes
-Walboro 255 fuel pump
-1000cc RC fuel injectors
-Precision 5431 turbo
-D2 fully adjustable coilovers
-Toyo tires
-SSQV blowoff valve
-15 in monoblock ultralight konig rims ce28 reps,weigh 11 lbs apeace
-Blue racing steering wheel
-All new carpet
-Carbon fiber sparkplug cover
-Carbon fiber duckbill
-New hid kit headlights
-Chipped obd1 JDM PR3-J01 ecu from JDM 93 integra xsi
BOUT TO DRIVE ME INSANE .....NOT GETTING ANYWHERE ON THIS AND I CAN'T GET AWAY FROM THE CAR AND WHEN I DO ALL I DO IS READ ON IT

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There's a few things you can check.

1) Any damaged / disconnected / vacuum lines or damaged sensors.

In many cases, issues are confounded when one or several of these items has been disconnected or damaged in some way, fashion or form. This is of course assuming that you hadn't replaced or touched any of the major sensors and vacuum lines since it last ran properly. If you've been going through the car thoroughly and nothing stands out as anything out of the ordinary (you've stated that you've had this issue for two months), then perhaps you need to start checking other components that don't stand out. (fuel injectors, IACV valves, wiring connections, etc) to ensure that you don't have anything damaged that isn't easily seen.

2) "Chipped ECU stands out as a red flag.

I don't know if when you describe your engine management that you're referring to a system like Hondata or some other reliably-supported company, but older systems like "CROME" do have issues with corrupted files. One day, things are fine; the next day, everything is completely out of wack, because somehow, (through no fault of your own, hopefully) your data file got corrupted. The only way to solve this is to have your tuner verify that there were no changes in your ignition/fuel timing maps. (this is really important if you can't do this yourself, or you were not your own tuner).


Sounds to me like the latter, but at least here is a way to get started.

Good luck.

Ekboosten4fun_3

Peak and hold injectors ohms checked out...also listened for clicking which all was ....cleaned FTIV then bottomed it out then backed it out a llittle.....cleaned IACV and touched to battery to see if was functional checked out but does not close completely not sure if support to or not.....TPS .5volts at closed and 4.5volts at wot......map sensor 5volts....ground is 11.8 and signal is 1.7 ...believe to be blacksworks 3 bar....all done with koeo......compression test dry to wet. #1-180-215 #2-185-200
#3-185-195 #4-200-205......ecu is pr3-j01 obd1....has a socket with removable sst 27sf512 70-3c-PGE 0824020-c. ......also has 4 pin at cn2.......all I was told was custom tuned by R12 engineering and tuning in concord NC........also inside ecu I I noticed and brown resistor not really sure if is a resistor...but the numbers around it are NFI...C19...and Q3...anways it seems to be cracked or maybe a lil burnt ...no burnt smell though..

2kdrift

sounds like it running crome or chipped basemap. you need a true EMS ie. Hondata, neptune AEM ect,

crome used a system where you could "burn" a tune to a chip, which you rarely see anymore since the other EMS systems mentioned are much better. Sounds like you need to get a proper EMS and take it to a professional tuner. You may want to start off by contacting R12 and see if they have additional info for you or possibly take it back to them since they may have a better idea of how it was tuned

Your ecu may have had a component failure, you said its cracked pics would be helpful

Ekboosten4fun_3

Doodasi

🔼🔼🔼 what they said. If you have a graphing meter (doesn't everyone), or know how to test everything without one. There is only one thing left. Ecu. Whoever built yours, can probably test it, or mail it off to have it done. Resistors do swell and crack when they go bad. I keep thinking it is temperature related.

2kdrift

may not even be a resistor I was thinking transistor those crack but not due to temperature most the time usually they just fail or have improper voltage flowing through them. (this is just a guess, I wasnt able to pull anything up with the numbers provided need to see pics) since its cracked you dont even need a "graphing meter" just replace it assuming everything else in the ECU is in working order, usually when one component fails there is a reason for it and other things either get damaged or already are damaged and caused the secondary component failure.

I was more curious about the tune anyway, honestly if it was me I would get a hondata based ECU double check the things shodan mentioned and have it retuned, before the motor explodes

Ekboosten4fun_3

Posted pictures earlier ....but said want be visible till approved

ls joker

Kinda difficult to follow with the way the grammer is use on your posts.

however, as stated, it sounds engine management issue. Aswell as a vacuum leak. If you smoke, have a smoke near every vacuum hose

Ekboosten4fun_3

I changed intake manifold gasket and when had finished I had accidently plugged tps and map up wrong noticed immediatly...after 1 crank and switched them back......this was bout 9 days be for my problem so didn't figure would have anything to do with it ......had thoughts that maybe the part that is cracked/burned could be from that......also noticed today that my intake manifold gets quiet hot real quick.....

2kdrift

I would not repair that ECU theirs just too much damage, Get a p28 with Hondata pre-installed. I found that B&R fittings had the best prices but you can also get it from Xenocron or others.

Ekboosten4fun_3

U think this is the root to my problems.....i noticed to day that my exaulst manifold either has a slight crack or I'm leaking from the gasket area and also normal boost was 12 psi ....now only seing around 3 maybe 6 sometimes. Then leans out and backfires and sometimes does not backfire can hold it but misses and jerks

Ekboosten4fun_3

Also ive heard that you have to match ecu to your head.....so would a p28 work

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Yes. A p28 can work as a base for Hondata. But you need to see my notes above. It seems as though you have electronic and mechanical issues.

2kdrift

agreed, as I stated above. Im not there to diagnose his mechanical issues in person thats something he will need to do on his own. I can say that ECU is toast IMO

I would say that statement is incorrect, perhaps an oldschool method of thinking. You NEED a ecu with the ability to be custom tuned to your particular setup which a p28 with hondata will provide

http://www.xenocron.com/hondata-s300...age-p-285.html

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

My comments were to the OP, not you, my good sir.

Doodasi

Does look like that ecu has a problem. Hopefully there is no cause that has not been fixed. It would be interesting to see what your outputs read like on a graphing meter. In my opinion, it is the best way to damn one. Too many times I see people replacing computers that don't need one. Are your injectors hanging open? idle air duty cycle? What is your coil, and signal doing? You say your intake is hot. Timing belt alignment? What's your ignition timing look like when you use a light? Just throwing stuff out there. Blowing a bunch of dough on hondata, and plugging it in when you don't know for absolute certain would not be a wise thing I do believe. Probability is high that it's toast, but we are also talking about damming something that hasn't been tested either.

2kdrift

sounds like you have a multitude of problems the ecu typically would not explain the vacuum changes you described earlier, we can only comment on what we can see. Again look at shodans first post and do your best to investigate if you have specific questions about what you see post up pictures so we can help you better. Do you see a crack on the manifold? it could just be leaking from the gasket again we need to see it to be of much help here

Ekboosten4fun_3

Yes small crack right above where turbo and manifold bolt up....ignition timing I beleave is off if it's suppost to be at 16 then it is off ....i can get the tdc mark to line up if my timing gun is at 5 degrees

2kdrift

depends on how it was tuned, I would recommend NOT to adjust it bad things could happen.

theYBLEGAL

Sounds like the map sensor is bad. No one suggested that? 5v to the map sensor is cool, but the signal from the map sensor makes a bigger deal.

ECU looks toast.

Doodasi

I broke out my crystal ball, and used my psychokick abilities to tell you that you fried your computer because a resistor for your low impedance injectors crapped out. However, I don't believe crystal ***** work, and psychics only work on chipmunks. So there is that.

ErosIsHated

Damn sorry to hear your having trouble.

Ekboosten4fun_3

Also forgot to mention car does not sound the same... Kinda like a harley...... Did a valve adjustment and got sum vacuum back around 14 to 15 now..... Also got my data logger fonaly..... With koeo my eld is 85 is this normal

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)