trouble with NO2 install and nitrous control
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
i just installed my edelbrock dry kit. got everything all in and together and started hooking it up to my hondata S300. it seemed right until i came accross this diagram on hondatas website...
http://hondata.com/featuresnitrous.html
The car does not spray at all. and i have a feeling the wiring is why.
i really do not truely understand the workings of the diagram and i would really appreciate it if i could get some help. And if it turns out i did wire this up correctly, how do i go about figuring the problem out?
http://hondata.com/featuresnitrous.html
The car does not spray at all. and i have a feeling the wiring is why.
i really do not truely understand the workings of the diagram and i would really appreciate it if i could get some help. And if it turns out i did wire this up correctly, how do i go about figuring the problem out?
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
how i have mine wired:
-Activation is on a switch that grounds out pin B8
-The output is on pin is 15 and hooks up to 85 on the relay
-86 is hooked up to a constant 12v(when the ignition is on)
-30 is tapped into 86(12v)
-87 runs to one of the wires on my nitrous selenoid and the other wire of the selenoid is grounded.<Does it matter what wire is power or ground on the selenoid?
-Activation is on a switch that grounds out pin B8
-The output is on pin is 15 and hooks up to 85 on the relay
-86 is hooked up to a constant 12v(when the ignition is on)
-30 is tapped into 86(12v)
-87 runs to one of the wires on my nitrous selenoid and the other wire of the selenoid is grounded.<Does it matter what wire is power or ground on the selenoid?
Solenoid wires don't care which is power and which is ground, that's why they aren't individually colored or anything.
The activation switch using the ecu ground is WRONG. The solenoids themselves should be grounded with the ecu output pin or use the ecu output for 85.
Have the switch wired to arm the system and have everything powered, therefore when Hondata supplies the ground signal the solenoids open.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8chu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how i have mine wired:
-Activation is on a switch that grounds out pin B8
-The output is on pin is 15 and hooks up to 85 on the relay <---don't understand this
-86 is hooked up to a constant 12v(when the ignition is on)
-30 is tapped into 86(12v)
-87 runs to one of the wires on my nitrous selenoid and the other wire of the selenoid is grounded.<Does it matter what wire is power or ground on the selenoid?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically everything seems fine, it's just mainly the fact you have the ground going to the arming switch. That ground is only to light up the toggle switch, nothing more. The arming switch should have 12v in, a ground (to light it up), and 12v out to 86. 86 can then share that same 12v with 30, then 87 to the solenoids like you have it. Lastly, have the ecu output pin to 85. Just wire the solenoids to their own ground and, like stated earlier, 87 will provide the 12v to the solenoids.
The activation switch using the ecu ground is WRONG. The solenoids themselves should be grounded with the ecu output pin or use the ecu output for 85.
Have the switch wired to arm the system and have everything powered, therefore when Hondata supplies the ground signal the solenoids open.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EJ8chu »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how i have mine wired:
-Activation is on a switch that grounds out pin B8
-The output is on pin is 15 and hooks up to 85 on the relay <---don't understand this
-86 is hooked up to a constant 12v(when the ignition is on)
-30 is tapped into 86(12v)
-87 runs to one of the wires on my nitrous selenoid and the other wire of the selenoid is grounded.<Does it matter what wire is power or ground on the selenoid?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Basically everything seems fine, it's just mainly the fact you have the ground going to the arming switch. That ground is only to light up the toggle switch, nothing more. The arming switch should have 12v in, a ground (to light it up), and 12v out to 86. 86 can then share that same 12v with 30, then 87 to the solenoids like you have it. Lastly, have the ecu output pin to 85. Just wire the solenoids to their own ground and, like stated earlier, 87 will provide the 12v to the solenoids.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
so everything is correct except that..... the selenoids should be grounded to the arming input on the ecu?
Ahh...****, my apologies, I forgot about the arming switch to let the Hondata know the system is active, which makes it different from a typical arming switch. Yeah, so reading back through your wiring, it appears correct. Are you sure you selected the correct inputs/outputs in Hondata?
Yeah, your wiring matches the diagram on Hondata's site, so you must either have a 12v supply issue, a bad relay, or bad settings in Hondata. Use a meter to make sure your toggle is providing ground continuity when in the "armed position". Check the 12v supply with the ignition on. You may even try another relay to be sure. If all checks out, then your issue has to be in Hondata.
In hondata, like I said, check your input/output settings and your activation parameters.
Yeah, your wiring matches the diagram on Hondata's site, so you must either have a 12v supply issue, a bad relay, or bad settings in Hondata. Use a meter to make sure your toggle is providing ground continuity when in the "armed position". Check the 12v supply with the ignition on. You may even try another relay to be sure. If all checks out, then your issue has to be in Hondata.
In hondata, like I said, check your input/output settings and your activation parameters.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
have everything hooked up like the diagram so i tryed different outputs.
acc....nothing
altc....sprays the selenoid all the time. even if i switch the arming input off it still sprays
....purge controll seems to do nothing as well.
acc....nothing
altc....sprays the selenoid all the time. even if i switch the arming input off it still sprays
....purge controll seems to do nothing as well.
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Well if it still sprays regardless of whether the arming switch is on or off, then you definitely didn't wire it like the diagram.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
well you have to reverse the output when using the altc so if i do that it doesnt spray just like the other 3 wires i have tryed.
I soldered everything up today. double checked all my wires and grouds. The switch on my arming input does ground it self to B8. The relay does have a constant 12v source. and if i reverse the output on the output wire(A15) then it sprays all the time.
It feels like my car is just pulling very well. Not like n2o is being sprayed.
Is it possible my seleniod is only onpening partially?
I soldered everything up today. double checked all my wires and grouds. The switch on my arming input does ground it self to B8. The relay does have a constant 12v source. and if i reverse the output on the output wire(A15) then it sprays all the time.
It feels like my car is just pulling very well. Not like n2o is being sprayed.
Is it possible my seleniod is only onpening partially?
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
right now its a seventy shot dry. hondata has the fuel up and the timing retarded. I drove the car and clicked the reverse output button to just see if it sprays while driving and i feel like a 70 shot should be alot more that what it is
The best advice I can give you is you need someone to look at it in person. If you lived closer I'd be more than happy to straighten it out for you man. The issue is though, your taking unnecessary risks by not being sure what's actually happening.
Having ran nitrous setups for years, I promise you, if your hitting a 70shot, you'll know when that sh*t activates. I ran a 70shot dry on a Y8 in a CRX years ago for local street racing nights and I'd spin tire all the way through 1st, 2nd, and part of third....and that was on more conservative than necessary timing retard so that I could run 89 octane.
Having ran nitrous setups for years, I promise you, if your hitting a 70shot, you'll know when that sh*t activates. I ran a 70shot dry on a Y8 in a CRX years ago for local street racing nights and I'd spin tire all the way through 1st, 2nd, and part of third....and that was on more conservative than necessary timing retard so that I could run 89 octane.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
arming switch is grounded. like it needs to be. I think i may have a problem with S300. The wiring is right. Ive tryed numerous combinations using different inputs and outputs. all soldered and tested.
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
and if i take the grounding wire directly from the relay(the one that is hooked up to the output on hondata) it sprays. this tells me hondata just isnt grounding the relay like it should. I even tryed switching the activation input on hondata to always on and still nothing
I'm near Pittsburgh, Pa.
So, with the ignition on, if you ground the output wire coming from the ecu, then solenoid activates? If that's so, then maybe it'd be best to contact Hondata and see what they can tell you.
Did you definitely check the activation parameters and be sure your meeting all of them in order to activate the system?
So, with the ignition on, if you ground the output wire coming from the ecu, then solenoid activates? If that's so, then maybe it'd be best to contact Hondata and see what they can tell you.
Did you definitely check the activation parameters and be sure your meeting all of them in order to activate the system?
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From: Harpers Ferry WV
no. when i ground the relay itself( hondata grounds the relay to activate nitrous) it sprays until i unground the relay. i have checked double checked and tested every conection parameter and everyting. Im no pro at wiring but ive wired a good couple swaps, radios, switches and such. I really think its hondata
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