trany question
got a kinda of bug i wanta work out - heard about when you run slicks period it ***** not only the axles(knew that) but the transmission might completely mess's up too. is there anything out there that you can put in or do to your transmission to beef it up , reason why im worried i have a big build under way and i just finished the engine and i need to know what to do the tranny sides the differential part , i have heard of tranmission cradles , and spools but i have no idea there true meaning. somenone fill in the blanks for me , later
Slicks won't **** anything up if your a good driver (preload and don't grind gears). You can get a Quaife LSD and DSS axles if you want to beef your tranny/drivetrain up. You can also get those carbon coated syncros as well. But yeah I would have to say driver/tuner error is the main reason things break.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by beerbongskickass »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But yeah I would have to say driver/tuner error is the main reason things break.</TD></TR></TABLE>
You just have to preload and learn to not dump the clutch off the line.
I purposely leave a weak link in the system (AXLES) so if somthing breaks, its usually not the transmission. I like going to the local parts store and swapping out a broken axle for a free new one, rather than shelling transmissions.
The only transmission i have broke was on the street with street tires. It was because of wheel hop. It only took the time from when it started to wheel hop tot eh time it took me to put in the clutch to rip the final drive gears off the shaft.
You just have to preload and learn to not dump the clutch off the line.
I purposely leave a weak link in the system (AXLES) so if somthing breaks, its usually not the transmission. I like going to the local parts store and swapping out a broken axle for a free new one, rather than shelling transmissions.
The only transmission i have broke was on the street with street tires. It was because of wheel hop. It only took the time from when it started to wheel hop tot eh time it took me to put in the clutch to rip the final drive gears off the shaft.
if you run slicks its not wise to run aftermarket axles....they are usually cast type metal a tthe spline rather then the OEM forged splines and they snap right off.....
The meaning of a spool is something that replaces the differential completely......the diff allows one wheel to spin fasster then the other so you can turn and make u turns
with a spool it locks both axles together so the wheels will always spin at the same speed...its not considered streetable but for straight line racing they are cheaper then an LSD
The meaning of a spool is something that replaces the differential completely......the diff allows one wheel to spin fasster then the other so you can turn and make u turns
with a spool it locks both axles together so the wheels will always spin at the same speed...its not considered streetable but for straight line racing they are cheaper then an LSD
thanks guys , never thought of the oem axle thing, thats genious seriously , any one else have any random tips all information will be greatly appreciated, ill be tearing *** down the strip as soon as a get my longblock hooked up to a tranny, but the oem axle thing is deffinetly a good thing, but the carbon coated gears, how much or doesnt gearspeed have them or something still need just a little more info!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo_TONY »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok dont make too much fun of my but...whats preloading.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Pull the e-brake while your on the line, rev to your desired launch rpm, let the clutch out until your car squats a little and there is load on the drivetrain, then just let the clutch and e-brake go at the same time when the light turns green. By doing this you won't shock the drivetrain like you would if you just dumped the clutch.
Pull the e-brake while your on the line, rev to your desired launch rpm, let the clutch out until your car squats a little and there is load on the drivetrain, then just let the clutch and e-brake go at the same time when the light turns green. By doing this you won't shock the drivetrain like you would if you just dumped the clutch.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



