hey guys i have been searching for pics and explanations on traction bar setups for my hatch...how do they work like where do they bolt up? my tuner said i need a traction bar setup to solve my wheel hop before i break the diff in the tranny or an axle....also what is a good brand? thanks

 

I have full race traction bars
Im sure they all are about the same
no wheel hop but alot of spinning.

 

ok but how are they mounted? also my cross member or whatever, (the section the radiator sits on) is bent a little, will this effect the install?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mangina &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have full race traction bars
Im sure they all are about the same
no wheel hop but alot of spinning.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they are not all the same.
http://www.full-race.com/artic...s.pdf
look at the tech section and see why bars that mount where the f-r bars do work and dont cause suspension bind.

they mount the cross member to the tow hook location, and have the radius rids that go to the lower control arms. some go to the shock bolt, the f-r bars go to the bolt to the inside of that to allow the suspension to travel in its natural arc.

 

so if that piece is bent will they not work well? i have an eg hatch

 

hard to say depends how bad it is.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMeg95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok but how are they mounted? also my cross member or whatever, (the section the radiator sits on) is bent a little, will this effect the install? </TD></TR></TABLE>

As long as your core support isn't bent so severely that it tries to occupy the space needed by the traction bar, you should be fine. If it is bent that severely, then you need to get that fixed first.

The article mentioned above is certainly a well written and informative document about traction bars. However, this does not mean that there is only one company out there that sells a properly working traction bar. There are several, if not, many companies who make excellent products of this type.

Search the forums, and see what real life experiences folks have had with the different companies. Most folks are quick to hate, and slow to praise, so the products with the fewest hate threads are probably the ones you want to look at.

Hope that helps,

Craig

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

they mount the cross member to the tow hook location, and have the radius rids that go to the lower control arms. some go to the shock bolt, the f-r bars go to the bolt to the inside of that to allow the suspension to travel in its natural arc.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Where the radius rod attaches to the control arm has nothing at all to with it binding or not. Anywhere between the bushing and the balljoint is fine as far as binding is concerned. The critical pivot is the front one. If they are not on the same axis as the LCA (inner bushings) it will bind. But I do agree that properly designed ones with minimal to no binding are important.

 

here are how my look. not a direct pic, but you get the idea. radius rods arnt on.

 

nice write up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!