turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Dont run a ground cable to the front

the chassis is hopefully welded together if not you have bigger problems

1158

That isn't the issue anyway. I did a test and ran a jumper cable from the battery to the engine. Made no difference. I'm thinking it might be the alternator control in Hondata. I'm going to disable that and see what happens. I just looked at data logs after I went for a drive. In boost my fuel pressure is right where it should be. At 24 psi I'm seeing 62 psi of fuel pressure. My base is set at 38 psi.

I'm guessing the alternator control is kicking in and not supplying enough power to the fuel pump. At least that is all I can figure out. I'm still trying to find the source of that weird break up. Wouldn't it be great if that was due to alternator kicking in. I'll make the changes to the calibration and then take it for a ride tomorrow. I'm done with it for today.

1 other thing to add. I did notice that at idle and very light throttle the car is running on the lean side AFR goes high 15s into 16s but if I add a little TPS the pressure goes up to 38 and AFR is 14.7-15. Anyone have any other ideas? I'll check the Alternator Control but I'm not confident that will fix it. Could the alternator be going bad?

1158

Well disabling the alternator control didn't fix the issue. It seemed to delay it's onset, but that could just be due to different conditions today from yesterday.

Anyone have any ideas. I guess I should check the alternator and pull the fuel pump to see if the wiring to the pump is ok. I have a hard time believing it is wiring though. If it were wiring it would do it all the time and almost certainly under load.

1158

Well I tested the battery and alternator and they seem to pass. I'm not sure where to look next but I guess I'll start with checking more wiring.

I was wondering at what point would I need to switch to a plug colder than 7s? I don't think I'm at that point yet but I'm also trying to chase down the random break up. While I'm on plugs, how small a plug gap is too small? Right now I'm at 0.020 with the iridiums.

Pullig

I run iridium 8s at 0.016 gap... I made 530 whp any larger I get break up on stock ignition components

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That's why you have the option of making your stock components more robust by enhancing them. without having to go with colder plugs and closer gaps.

I made the same 530whp with Iridium 7s and enhanced stock components, at a .026 gap. That's lasted 3 years. No break up, no need to go COP unless I want to.

LightningTeg

I've only run BKR7E's. Old stock ignition got me to about 525 before I upgraded the internal coil to Accel ($50). I was able to open it up a few more thousandths. Am able to run .018 gap @ 600whp / 30lbs of boost no issues.

1158

As far as my fuel pressure issue goes. Could the pump going bad cause this? I would think it would be the other way around, it would deliver fuel fine at low demand but start failing at high load. I'm losing pressure at low demand once everything is hot but so far high demand seems unaffected.

I went COP for 2 reasons. I thought my coil was going bad, turns out it was the ignitor just starting to flake out and some of the internal wiring on the distributor was bad. Rather than buy an OEM distributor I figured the Hondata CPR was a cheaper route.

Pullig

Yeah I'm working on that. I've already got the Icm delete just haven't got the Mallory box and coil. Will be upgrading soon

1158

I may have just found it. Can possibly test tomorrow. I noticed when I test fit a coil pack onto the plug I get a faint metallic click. When I put the coil pack on the engine, mounted to the BWR plate I don't get that click. If I take the plate off and put the coil on I then get the click. I'm assuming that is the plug snapping into the coil. If the plug isn't snapping into the coil well then I assume that drastically cuts down on the spark energy.

Guess I need to find longer coils. I'm using Honda coils 30520-RRA-007. Anyone have an idea where I can find Honda coil pack dimensions?

I noticed Hondata suggests 30520-PVF-A01 with the CPR kit don't ask me why my dumbass bought a different coil pack but could anyone tell me the length of 30520-PVF-A01?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Could machining down the BWR COP plate give you any additional clearance to where you don't have to purchase new coils?

chippy

iTrader: (1)

1158, Since you're thinking of going E85. Are you planning to swap over to AEMS v2 or stick to the S300?

I'm debating about my fuel setup, the only issue I have is that MN's E85 blend is all over the place for winter/spring/summer/fall.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

That may be why he may do so, because of the different blends that are around, where the flex fuel sensor may be to his advantage.

1158

I don't think it would give me enough clearance. I took the VC washers off and tried mounting it flush and that still didn't give me enough. It turns out this wasn't the issue, at least I don't think it was. On the dyno this AM I tired mounting the coils without the plate and it was still breaking up. Once we got everything good and hot the breakup went away. Seems really weird but it ran flawless once we got it hot. Tuner got called away for something in the middle of it so the car was able to really cool off. The breakup returned (its always in the same general RPM band too) but sure enough it went away after he ran through the gears a bit and got it up to temp.

On a sadder note it only made 491/377. I wanted to stay in the 500 whp club damn it. It is worth noting that the power band on this car is freaking awesome. It pulls so hard. Wish I could take you all for a ride to show you what I mean. It is very consistent though. Pull after pull with no rest it would put up 489-491 and 372-377.

Here is the graph: I'll post it on the first page later tonight, after I get over my disappointment.

1158

I'll probably stay S300. I already have the flex fuel sensor and pigtail. I need to figure out what to do about fuel delivery. I'm still on stock lines so they will have to go (at least the feed). I'll need a different pump and my ID1000s won't cut it.

boosted94gsr

That's a nice fat usable power curve you got there. 300whp & 300tq at 5k rpm is pretty sweet too. Good luck getting that breakup issue figured out man.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

And that was the Mark I TR3030R. The Mark III is even nicer.

1158's Mark I



Dark_Teg's Mark III

1158

That Mark III is sweet. I like my OG unit but if it was easier for me to pull the turbo I would upgrade. It's just a bitch to get in there. Even when I had the head off to change the HG it would have been a chore getting it off. At some point I'll have to pull it to have the turbo serviced, maybe by then you'll be on Mark IV.

Mmmmmm Mark IV

boosted94gsr

If I ever step my game up I'm coming to you for a turbo Mac.

1158

That's exactly what I did. I went from a Precision SC34 to the TR3030R. I had been eying 1 of Mac's turbos for a while. Best money I've spent.

Mac won't steer you wrong either. He'll listen to you and make sure you get what you are looking for.

boosted94gsr

That seems to be the general consensus from his customers.

Dark_Teg

The Shodan will take good care of you.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea Mac won't blow smoke up your *** or try to sell you something you don't need.

You can always PM me here if you have any STC related questions, message me personally on facebook, or head on over to our facebook page if you haven't liked/seen it already.

I'm currently assisting Mac with marketing off of HT.

1158

I just looked at something. Outside air temp when we did the 491 pull was 75-80F (was over 90F in the dyno room) but humidity was 60-70%. That humidity sucks lol

1158

Anyone ever have a FPR that doesn't leak and holds pressure but then once it's heat soaked it bleeds off pressure?