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So I think I found the source of a lot of my small issues. I was looking around under the hood after driving the car today and noticed a very light sheen around the injector #1 seal. Touched it with my finger and found it was wet. Barely smelled of fuel but I'm guessing because it was just so little fuel. However it didn't appear that the leak was coming from where the injector goes into the fuel rail. That area was dry.
I took the injector plug off so I could get a better look at where the leak might be and I noticed the inside of the plug was wet, also with faint fuel smell. It appears the injector is leaking fuel up through the plug. Anyone ever have this happen to ID1000s?
I haven't pulled the injector out yet but I'm gonna bet the orings are good. Reason I say that is I can see the fuel in the injector plug well yet the injector above where the plug goes in is dry.
Here is a quick picture I snapped, not the best but you can see where the injector is wet.
-Note what looks like the flash on the ID collar is actually an area where the anodized coating is scratched off and it's just bare aluminum. It makes it look like the collar is wet but it is not.
We took a video on the dyno with the camera right by the front fender. I'll see if I can get a copy of that video. All you hear is the turbo spooling lol
It may not matter anyway. If I tune on E85 I'm gonna need ID2000s anyway.
Well I'm stupid. It is not the injector leaking. I just went out too look at it and it's still wet. If it were fuel it would have evaporated by that point, or at least the wet areas should be smaller. I noticed the injector was under the VC fitting. I guess the heat cycles have loosened up the fitting just a bit. I haven't checked them since I put it back together. It isn't loose but the hose can swivel very slightly. I'm guessing condensation leaked out past the hose end and dripped on the injector.
So I'm back to figuring out why fuel pressure is dropping. I tried replacing the FPR diaphram but that didn't help (as I kind of expected). I wonder if the spring in the FPR could be weakened for some reason. If I pinch the return line a bit fuel pressure rises back to where it needs to be. I checked manifold vac when hot and cold, almost zero variation between the 2.
if it were leaking you would smell fuel right away
Yeah, I mean every time I've had a fuel leak you know it. I would catch a faint whiff of it now and then but it's not overpowering like it should be.
Well I pulled the pump and all the wiring/hoses look good with no signs of melting/splitting/cracking/leaking. I'm down to 2 options. It's either the Aeromotive FPR (wouldn't shock me I've had terrible luck with their stuff) or the fuel filter is clogged. I have an adjustable FPR that I know at least works ok at idle. I'll swap that out tomorrow and see if I still lose pressure as everything heats up. If it still does it I'll try swapping out the filter. I would think a filter clogging up would cause low fuel pressure at all rpm ranges not just idle but maybe once the pump is pushing harder it is able to overcome the filter.
So last night I removed the AEM fuel pressure sending unit and the vacuum fitting from the regulator. I re-wrapped the sender with teflon tape (it looked good when I pulled it out) and I put Permatex grey on the vacuum fitting to replace the teflon tape which didn't look that bad.
So far 3 heat soak cycles and I've only seen a max of 2 psi drop in fuel pressure. I'm guessing it was the vac port fitting. It's brass and the regulator is Aluminum so the different expansion rates due to heat must have been at play.
Anyone ever have a FPR that doesn't leak and holds pressure but then once it's heat soaked it bleeds off pressure?
I have your problem as well. I'm on stock fpr With aeromotive 340
60 base which it maintains pretty regular. Until the car soaks idling in the heat 85deg.
No voltage drop since I monitor that as well. I'm thinking the diaphragm is heating up with the fuel and bypassing more fuel. It's usually gets down to 50 and will not come back up until it's had a cool down period.
I have your problem as well. I'm on stock fpr With aeromotive 340
60 base which it maintains pretty regular. Until the car soaks idling in the heat 85deg.
No voltage drop since I monitor that as well. I'm thinking the diaphragm is heating up with the fuel and bypassing more fuel. It's usually gets down to 50 and will not come back up until it's had a cool down period.
I think my car does the same thing. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to confirm. I have my idle afr tuned to 15-1, but after the engine gets good and heat soaked (sitting in traffic in 80+ degree weather) my idle afr will creep up to 16-1. It never does that any other time. I have a stock fpr with an aem 320lph fuel pump. Afrs in boost are always on target regardless.
I think my car does the same thing. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to confirm. I have my idle afr tuned to 15-1, but after the engine gets good and heat soaked (sitting in traffic in 80+ degree weather) my idle afr will creep up to 16-1. It never does that any other time. I have a stock fpr with an aem 320lph fuel pump. Afrs in boost are always on target regardless.
My issue was happening in any weather after everything was up to temp. Usually by the time I got to work, 20 min drive, I would lose 10-12 psi.
I would suggest putting a gauge on it to see if you are losing fuel pressure. Even after I fixed the fuel pressure issue I was still seeing my hot AFR about a point higher than it should be, was right around 16. I reset my idle adjustment screw (I had to adjust it for the GSC cams) and now it idles as 15 even when full hot/heat soaked.
I think my car does the same thing. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge to confirm. I have my idle afr tuned to 15-1, but after the engine gets good and heat soaked (sitting in traffic in 80+ degree weather) my idle afr will creep up to 16-1. It never does that any other time. I have a stock fpr with an aem 320lph fuel pump. Afrs in boost are always on target regardless.
I dont think thats the FPR. Probably just IAT fuel compensation tables needed some love. I had the problem for a long time until I stopped being lazy and tuned the table
You shouldn't put teflon tape on fuel fittings from what I have read, and the manuals for all fuel related items says not too.
That's interesting. I have used teflon tape on fuel fittings for years and never had problems. What do you use? Hondabond/Permatex Grey says not for use with fuel I believe.
I dont think thats the FPR. Probably just IAT fuel compensation tables needed some love. I had the problem for a long time until I stopped being lazy and tuned the table
I have adjusted my idle/low load iat comp table, but when I bring idle afr on target it makes my load load way too rich. In Neptune you can not adjust idle iat temp comps without changing load load too, it's the same value. It's not a big deal to me as it idles perfectly smooth at that afr anyways.
That was with the GSC cams. Given all the issues I've been uncovering (mainly the FPR issue and the suspected weaker valve springs) I really want to try giving the GSC cams a second chance. I'm just afraid I don't have the tuning knowledge to make them work in the cold given what went on last winter. I will go back to the GSC cams again in the future it just won't be in the near future.
So I got tired of the VC purple not matching the Turbo/BOV/WG purple.
I decided a change was needed (plus I had baffles added to the fittings on the back of the VC to help keep oil where it belongs)
Couple things.
- It's hard to tell because part of it is in the sunlight and part of it isn't but the turbo pipe also matches the turbo et al.
- The pics make it look more pinkish but if you look at the BOV in the pics you can see the camera is washing out some of the color. It looks pretty amazing in person.
- I did not like how the wiring loom I had for the COP harness was looking so I have materials inbound to hopefully make it look a lot cleaner. In the meantime I ripped the other stuff out. If it goes as I envision it should look nice and clean.
Really nice looking functional setup, amazing that a/c is even tucked in there with a ramhorn.
Im curious what the bubbling is around the BOV flange though, is the charge pipe vinyl wrapped?
Thanks.
The bubbling is from where powder coat got hot when the new BOV flange was welded on. It bugs me but I don't want to recoat the pipe. I would lose my STC decal!
Other day it was in the upper 80s here, I had the AC on full blast. Ice cold and my ECT never went above 190. I'm curious to see what happens when we get into the upper 90s. Was ok last year but I do have a bigger intercooler in there now.
Sorry one of our retarded geese hit your car aswell, dont fret they are all back up here shltting everywhere again and attacking kids lol. Your PDR guy does pretty good work though!
Sorry one of our retarded geese hit your car aswell, dont fret they are all back up here shltting everywhere again and attacking kids lol. Your PDR guy does pretty good work though!
LOL I can picture them attacking kids too. They are such a Menace 2 Society! No ill feelings toward Canada tho.
Man was I pissed. We still have some of those ******* around here. Saw one just the other day but I resisted the urge to kill it.
The PDR guy has a 500 whp Prelude that's real nice. He wants to work on the door a bit more when he gets some more free time. He says it's about 96% and he thinks he can get it 99% lol.
05-13-2015, 09:11 AM
re: 1158's TR3030R GSR, now with 512whp!
