top psi with blue box
#4
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Re: top psi with blue box (TurBoXBirD16)
without raising your fuel pressure, 7 psi is about it. Even after raising the fp, you could only run 1 or 2 more lbs. The blue box is only good when you leave the boost pressure at greddy stock. If you are wanting to run more that 5-6, get a SMCdual or smc500
#6
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Re: top psi with blue box (TurBoXBirD16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">8 psi....
i would say STOCK psi is for the blue box.. haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto...
i would say STOCK psi is for the blue box.. haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ditto...
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Re: top psi with blue box (TurBoXBirD16)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TurBoXBirD16 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
i would say STOCK psi is for the blue box.. haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This gets my vote. To many things change when turning up the boost.
i would say STOCK psi is for the blue box.. haha
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This gets my vote. To many things change when turning up the boost.
#9
Re: top psi with blue box (DeepSi)
OK, This is the best opportunity I have to finally show blue box users what actually happens. (In other words Im too afraid to post my own thread about this.)
In testing I used the newest Honda PGM tester that we have received about a month ago. This is what I found......
The blue box has predetermined tables for boost with 310cc injectors and the Greddy turbo kit right.....????? WRONG!
As a matter of fact it only has two functions.
One: Block a positive pressure signal from your MAP/Baro sensor by intercepting it and reconfiguring the signal to Honda's acceptable signal voltage for WOT.
Two: Idle your car with 310cc injectors at a respectable A/F ratio. (I said respectable, not perfect)
Soooo, after you break out of idle the Honda computer takes over and your right back to your original Honda tuning map. The way I worked this experiment was to test my car and take snapshots of my OBD-II data-list in different situations (eg. WOT, idle, partial). Then using the same car (99' Civic Si) without any modifications did the same. What I found was interesting to say the least. At idle, on my car injector duty cycle was much lower that the stock car, OK. But at WOT and partial...the exact same reading with extremely slight differences due to changing conditions like temperature and barometric pressure.
So, in closing I would like to say to all those who blame the dreaded blue box for the death of their engine...don't blame the box....blame Honda or yourself for over-boosting. Hope this adds a little enlightenment to all.
In testing I used the newest Honda PGM tester that we have received about a month ago. This is what I found......
The blue box has predetermined tables for boost with 310cc injectors and the Greddy turbo kit right.....????? WRONG!
As a matter of fact it only has two functions.
One: Block a positive pressure signal from your MAP/Baro sensor by intercepting it and reconfiguring the signal to Honda's acceptable signal voltage for WOT.
Two: Idle your car with 310cc injectors at a respectable A/F ratio. (I said respectable, not perfect)
Soooo, after you break out of idle the Honda computer takes over and your right back to your original Honda tuning map. The way I worked this experiment was to test my car and take snapshots of my OBD-II data-list in different situations (eg. WOT, idle, partial). Then using the same car (99' Civic Si) without any modifications did the same. What I found was interesting to say the least. At idle, on my car injector duty cycle was much lower that the stock car, OK. But at WOT and partial...the exact same reading with extremely slight differences due to changing conditions like temperature and barometric pressure.
So, in closing I would like to say to all those who blame the dreaded blue box for the death of their engine...don't blame the box....blame Honda or yourself for over-boosting. Hope this adds a little enlightenment to all.
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