Are you using a fmu? do you know anybody that is?There is no way that my engine would survive with only 42psi of fuel pressure under full boost, if your theory was rite, the fmu would be pointless 2psi of additional fuel pressure is pointless the ecu would compensate for that.The fmu has nothing to do with the static fuel pressure.
The fmu restricts the fuel flow per psi, meaning it restricts (6:1) 6psi of fuel flow per 1 psi of boost it has no idea how much fuel pressure there actually is.It doesn't calculate the fuel pressure in any way.....

 

exactly so how can it start from 40psi. and why couldnt you get rid of your fpr if the fmu would hold the 40psi at 0 boost.
It seems like no one else want to comment

 

Whatever is being fed into the fmu is the starting point..
i'll post this question to see if i can get any reply's to help explain it to you.....

 

I started a thread titled fmu in relation to fuel pressure, check it out, there have been a few reply's to it so far.

 

I agree that b16hybrid is not correct. it is possible that something is clogged in your return line that is giving you the elevated pressure. For example sake the 10:1 fmu with 10psi boost gives 100psi fuel pressure.. I believe revhard sells a 12:1 and runs about 10 psi.. so by your math they are running.. 40+10+120=170psi fuel pressure. I know that the revhard guys run about 120psi fuel pressure.. I have heard them say it again and again. Something is wrong in your system..

also putting a high pressure pump in you tank should not increase your fuel pressure at idle. There is something wrong in your return that is making it go up.

 

You may find this interesting, i have done this in the past and so have several people i know,It's from a reputable company that you may have heard of...ENDYN.


How Do You Spell Relief?

Most high performance Hondas require fuel delivery beyond the capacity of the stock fuel system . This necessitates the installation of larger injectors and a high-output aftermarket fuel pump, of the in-tank, or in-line variety.

Unfortunately, in addition to increasing available fuel volume, most of these high-output pumps increase fuel pressure across the range as well. This pressure increase at idle and in the lower rpm ranges can cause the engine to run excessively rich, causing poor mileage, illegal emission levels, premature catalytic converter failure, plug fouling, and generally poor overall performance.

To remedy the problem, it's necessary to reduce the fuel pressure by installing an adjustable-kit such as the B&M on the stock pressure regulator. While this will permit pressure adjustment, many enthusiasts find that they still can't lower idle pressures enough to alleviate their problems.

The orifice (or valve) inside the Honda regulators is so small in diameter that it serves as a restriction to fuel returning to the tank, so no amount of adjustment will drop the pressure.

Our method for solving this problem is to drill a pressure relief hole in the regulator, connecting the inlet area to the exit. This will allow some excess pressure to by-pass the restrictive valve in the regulator.

This is a picture of a Honda fuel pressure regulator with the "top" sawed off for installation of a B&M adjustability kit.

The fuel entry is the orifice surrounded by the "O" ring and the exit is the tube protruding from the bottom of the regulator.

We've found that drilling a hole of approximately .035" diameter will effectively drop pressure to acceptable levels. Small drill bits like this can be purchased through hobby shops, or most good hardware stores. Since bits of this size are frequently smaller than the chucks can grip on most electric drills, the use of a Dremel, or hand-twist vice is recommended.

In this picture, you can see we've removed the "O" ring and drilled the pressure relief hole inside the fuel entry orifice.

Note that the hole we drill is angled toward the exit end of the regulator.

Another picture (with the drill bit in the hole), showing that we start the hole in the lower half of the entry orifice and angle it down toward the exit.

The most difficult part of this modification is the removal of the regulator from the fuel rail. In most instances, performing this operation and installing the adjustable regulator kit should require less than an hour of your time and the results of your efforts will be very satisfying. Your car will thank you

 

You can find that and many more interesting articles at http://www.theoldone.com

 

You can not figure out what kinda FMU ratio you have by looking at the pressure increace. If I had to guess your old fuel pump maxed at 90psi and your new on maxs higher, about where my Walboro GSS317 maxed out at ~110psi with a 12:1 ratio. I wouldn't worry about it other than your working the hell out of your fuel system, as long as your A/F looks good on the dyno you'll be alright.

For those gettig code 42 and 45 depending on OBD type you are prolly running to rich of a pressure at idle and cruising, most codes have a criteria that they follow such as if such and such happens three times after getting over 60 mph or something like that, throw code such and such. Take a close look at your CEL number and investiage or report back here.
-James