Too TwinDisc Or Not
I got mine for a "deal" brand new from an "Authorized Retailer" for a little under $1,500 so that price seems decent. Although, there is one from a regular eBayer for sale right now for $1,200 hehe...
EDIT: It already sold haha in a matter of minutes. Although I have seen them go for $1,298 even recently brand new.
EDIT: It already sold haha in a matter of minutes. Although I have seen them go for $1,298 even recently brand new.
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No-Traction = Fun
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I got mine for a "deal" brand new from an "Authorized Retailer" for a little under $1,500 so that price seems decent. Although, there is one from a regular eBayer for sale right now for $1,200 hehe...
EDIT: It already sold haha in a matter of minutes. Although I have seen them go for $1,298 even recently brand new.
EDIT: It already sold haha in a matter of minutes. Although I have seen them go for $1,298 even recently brand new.
You made the right call in my opinion. I was thinking about buying it just to sit on it HAHAHA!!! Oh well, at least it will be used instead of getting added to my "collection".
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No-Traction = Fun
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Seller just sent me requested pictures of the actual clutch, and then I.........................Jizzed In My Pants.......
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No-Traction = Fun
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Uggggg........I still have a ways to go. As I still need
2000cc injectors for E85 fuel + bosch 044 pump and -8an feed lines
My 10-point roll cage
24.5" racing slicks and some 13" rims
Great deal dude.
U will love to drive it on slicks when You get them.
I was surprised how light my where wheni first got them.
Surprised you didn't have them already.
U will love to drive it on slicks when You get them.
I was surprised how light my where wheni first got them.
Surprised you didn't have them already.
I've got a Bosch 044 that I can donate. Check valve with -8an flare inlet/outlet adapters included. PM me if you want it.
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No-Traction = Fun
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i drive my CC twin everywhere. I don't see how it can't be daily driven... I've never had a problem with mine, you just have to make sure the pedal is adjusted correctly. I will also tell you, shifting through the gears feels smoother and i don't have any lockout problems anymore, especially the 1st - 2nd shift the K series trans are known for locking out.
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No-Traction = Fun
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To have a proper setup dog engagement trans you need a long shifter and solid motor mounts. If the engine moves in the least you are gonna trash the transmission. Ask me how I know.
I'm looking into the CCI Twin Disc Part# 4-8026-C
since my car is no longer a commuter Im switching to E85 and shooting for 650-700WHP So I know I need to step it up. Are these considered "Plug-n-play" And i'm wondering what the engagement feels like as well as clutch pedal pressure.

since my car is no longer a commuter Im switching to E85 and shooting for 650-700WHP So I know I need to step it up. Are these considered "Plug-n-play" And i'm wondering what the engagement feels like as well as clutch pedal pressure.
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No-Traction = Fun
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Got this email from the Exedy tech, what do they mean about pedal stop and engagement?
The recommended break in is 500 miles of easy city driving.
For this clutch make sure the clutch engagement is set up 1 inch off the floor or install a pedal stop.
The recommended break in is 500 miles of easy city driving.
For this clutch make sure the clutch engagement is set up 1 inch off the floor or install a pedal stop.
It means you shouldn't push your pedal down more than an inch past the engage/disengage point. I'm not a master of twin discs, but I'm guessing it's because the contact materials go both in and out (as compared to a normal clutch, where it only goes out), and if you go more than an inch past disengage, you'll just shove the plates against the diaphragm and damage it.
500 mile break-in is easy. Just drive it like a grandma for 500 miles. Competition Clutch recommends the exact same thing for their 6 puck hub sprungs. When I installed and broke in mine, I just drove around town all day, burning two tanks of gas. Boom, 500 miles done, clutch ready to go.
Not to hijack your thread, but I'm in a similar conundrum. Motor break-in is "beat the **** out of it for 40 miles". Clutch break-in is "baby it for 500 miles". If you beat the **** out of a clutch for 40 miles, you'll fry it. How the hell are you supposed to break in a new clutch and new motor at the same time?
500 mile break-in is easy. Just drive it like a grandma for 500 miles. Competition Clutch recommends the exact same thing for their 6 puck hub sprungs. When I installed and broke in mine, I just drove around town all day, burning two tanks of gas. Boom, 500 miles done, clutch ready to go.
Not to hijack your thread, but I'm in a similar conundrum. Motor break-in is "beat the **** out of it for 40 miles". Clutch break-in is "baby it for 500 miles". If you beat the **** out of a clutch for 40 miles, you'll fry it. How the hell are you supposed to break in a new clutch and new motor at the same time?
That's about right.. which is about what the stock clutch pedal is setup as anyway. There's no real need to readjust the pedal itself. There's no "fast" break-in on the Exedy.. Its the same with any other clutch. Even those that utilize carbon plates.



