Too TwinDisc Or Not
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No-Traction = Fun
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From: Follow Me on "InstaGram"
Thread Starter
No-Traction = Fun
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: Follow Me on "InstaGram"
I didn't have a good experience with single clutches as 500whp the pads seemed to just break apart went with the cc twin def not fun to drive in the street but its a track car now
Driving a twin on the street really isn't bad. You only need the clutch for take off. After that you can shift without the clutch unless your really honking on it. I have Clutch masters fx700 in my car and it's smoother than CC stage 5 single disc.
If your shooting for over 700 I would get the twin disk. I used to run the stage 5 CC and it was easy to use. I switched to the CC twin disk once I was over 700 and it was super smooth.
My CC 6 puck held 405ft for a full season. Never slipped once. I went for more power thats why i got rid of it.
Then i got the CC twin disc. I dont think its very hard to drive on the streets at all. (My car is a 90% street car.) Engagement was smooth. Pedal wasnt overly too stiff. I actually really like it. Everyone has their own preferences and expierences though.
Then i got the CC twin disc. I dont think its very hard to drive on the streets at all. (My car is a 90% street car.) Engagement was smooth. Pedal wasnt overly too stiff. I actually really like it. Everyone has their own preferences and expierences though.
I do it as a gag when im giving people rides. It comes in handy. Like when my clutch cable snapped in my bug, and the slave cylinder failed in my z.
I would like to explain how a twin disk functions and why they drive better than a single disk. On a twin disk there is twice the surface area to hold the power of the engine. With the increased surface area there is less clamping load required to do the same job of a single disk. Thats why most people really like the exedy for street cars the clamp load is low and the pedal is soft they also have a sprung center hub helping to eliminate clutch chatter thats why the exedy has a power rating less than the other twin disk clutches on the market. If its mainly a race car look at the comp stuff of it is a street car that you want excellent drive ability with go with the exedy i Personally wont run any thing other than A tilton twin disk ive got over 50k on mine at 600+ and thousands of track passes.
no mater what clutch you buy you will learn to drive it and it will not be an issue
no mater what clutch you buy you will learn to drive it and it will not be an issue
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No-Traction = Fun
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From: Follow Me on "InstaGram"
I would like to explain how a twin disk functions and why they drive better than a single disk. On a twin disk there is twice the surface area to hold the power of the engine. With the increased surface area there is less clamping load required to do the same job of a single disk. Thats why most people really like the exedy for street cars the clamp load is low and the pedal is soft they also have a sprung center hub helping to eliminate clutch chatter thats why the exedy has a power rating less than the other twin disk clutches on the market. If its mainly a race car look at the comp stuff of it is a street car that you want excellent drive ability with go with the exedy i Personally wont run any thing other than A tilton twin disk ive got over 50k on mine at 600+ and thousands of track passes.
no mater what clutch you buy you will learn to drive it and it will not be an issue
no mater what clutch you buy you will learn to drive it and it will not be an issue
Thanks man for the input.
Its not the twin disk that is better for the high rpm shifting its the billet pressure plate. Thats why comp made the billet single the stamped steel diaphragm on most clutches will deform with the high forces created by the rpms. A good single will release better than a twin as there is less surface area to cause a dragging issue.
When you shift a transmission it works like this
Push the clutch disk should release leaving the inputshaft and clutch disk to spin at there own rpm. When you move the shifter the synchronizer ring speeds up or slows down the gear you are selecting. If there is any clutch drag or a heavy setup like a twin or even triple disk clutch you are working the synchronizer very hard. if the clutch disk has a release issue ive seen it wear out a set of synchros in as little as 50mi when there is a release issue the small friction area on the synchro will have to over come the clutch drag and speed up or slow down the engine not a good thing.
when ever you install a clutch you should have the car up on jack stands put the car in gear and rev the engine to 4-5k rpm with the clutch pedal down the wheels on the car should not move at all if they do adjustment of the clutch master is needed or even worse you bent the clutch disk upon installing the trans by letting the transmission hang from the clutch disk
hope this information helps anyone trying to understand how a clutch actually works in conjunction to the transmission
When you shift a transmission it works like this
Push the clutch disk should release leaving the inputshaft and clutch disk to spin at there own rpm. When you move the shifter the synchronizer ring speeds up or slows down the gear you are selecting. If there is any clutch drag or a heavy setup like a twin or even triple disk clutch you are working the synchronizer very hard. if the clutch disk has a release issue ive seen it wear out a set of synchros in as little as 50mi when there is a release issue the small friction area on the synchro will have to over come the clutch drag and speed up or slow down the engine not a good thing.
when ever you install a clutch you should have the car up on jack stands put the car in gear and rev the engine to 4-5k rpm with the clutch pedal down the wheels on the car should not move at all if they do adjustment of the clutch master is needed or even worse you bent the clutch disk upon installing the trans by letting the transmission hang from the clutch disk
hope this information helps anyone trying to understand how a clutch actually works in conjunction to the transmission
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No-Traction = Fun
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Naw...really? Damn who know what to believe anymore. Now I'm looking into "Iron-Man" Clutch kit. Need to find out the details on it. Looks promising and half the price.
330 ave the comp stage 5 with that upgraded pressure plate. Making between 300 and 350 ftlbs limiter at 8800rpm. Its not as bad as my old act xdr6 and the disc wears more evenly not just missing chunks from it. I think u are in twin disc territory though there is no point trying a single plate just to have it slip.
Ever look into the Exedy Hyper single carbon? That will give you great street performance, lightweight, capable of 400+ wtq etc. The great thing about a carbon clutch is the more you beat on it, the better it grabs. I have a tilton carbon/carbon clutch in the race car and it's a transmission saver for sure! Not nearly as harsh as a metallic plate twin or triple.
You'll see with this new found power that you're gonna start shredding gears soon. You'll want something that is a little more forgiving.
You'll see with this new found power that you're gonna start shredding gears soon. You'll want something that is a little more forgiving.
Thread Starter
No-Traction = Fun
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From: Follow Me on "InstaGram"
Ever look into the Exedy Hyper single carbon? That will give you great street performance, lightweight, capable of 400+ wtq etc. The great thing about a carbon clutch is the more you beat on it, the better it grabs. I have a tilton carbon/carbon clutch in the race car and it's a transmission saver for sure! Not nearly as harsh as a metallic plate twin or triple.
You'll see with this new found power that you're gonna start shredding gears soon. You'll want something that is a little more forgiving.
You'll see with this new found power that you're gonna start shredding gears soon. You'll want something that is a little more forgiving.
Sounds interesting I'll look into it as well. Thanks T
A twin will last a very long time and who puts 20k on a race car before taking it apart any ways. Its very reasonable to replace the friction surfaces of a twin disk clutch ive got over 50k on my tilton twin been in every car ive owned
20k on a Honda "race car" isn't very much. Either people aren't building them right or change their minds too much. Either way, people need to get a grip and realize you have to pay to play. This isn't kiddie land anymore where just about anything will work.
I went with that CC twin disc. As you know we're the same basic setup. The pedal feel is way better than "high stage" puck style disc I've driven before and engagement isn't bad once you're familiar with it. It is of course a touch grabby but again you'll figure out how to make it drive smooth. One thing about it that will scare you at first is when the pedal is compressed, the clutch chatters and makes all kinds of rattling noise. This is just the plates floating in the basket like a ducati motorcycle clutch. I dont regret spending the money now that I know its one less thing I have to worry about. I've put pass after pass on slicks and it never hesitated not to grab solid. I also street drive it all the time and I like it. Hope this helps
Last edited by LOWLUDE22; Jan 29, 2014 at 08:28 AM. Reason: cuz
Thread Starter
No-Traction = Fun
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From: Follow Me on "InstaGram"
So I was offered a Plan B Sponsorship on the Exedy Part # HM022SR for $1237.27 Does this sound like a fair deal for sponsorship?



) but I picked up a Exedy Twin Disc again.
I am only shooting for 550-600 AWHP
