hey guys, just a little confused on this here. I just finished building a GSR engine for someone & i got it running on his new injectors. After that before we decided to take it out for some street tuning we threw the timing light on it. Now mind you, the car seems to run fine & drive around the block with no problems or hesitations but the timing marks just don't line up when using the timing light. I just can't turn the dizzy far enough to make it come within range.

Ideas?

(crank spine off one tooth yet happens to run right for some reason? idk) ??

 

It has to be off a tooth or so somewhere. Re-check the mechanical timing is the obvious thing to do.

 

thats what i was leaning twords.. its just odd that it doesn't act weird while it's running or driving. (haven't really beat on it yet, glad we didn't!)

 

the mechanical timing can be off a tooth or so and not affect driveability.

 

thanks, i'll be re-setting the timing belt tonight after work

 

also make sure u r using an OEM crank pulley. i seen crank pulleys that "look" like stock not have n e timing markings. also make sure u put in the woodruff key into the crank/crankpulley

 

Ok, i've fixed the timing & it's correct according to the timing light. But now the car will not maintaine temp. it over heats every time you start it & let it warm up. IDK what the hell it's all about but it doesn't make any since, i've gone thought everything, i've checked the fan, it works, i've changed the thermostat, i've changed the head gasket, i've eliminated the heater core out of the loop, i've changed every coolant hose in the entire system. What the hell! ???? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

thanks for any help that someone can give me.

 

check your grounds if you have a ground off sometimes the temp gauge will give false readings, other than that if your fan is working a t stat is opening and radiator isnt cloged its your water pump, theres not much to a cooling system so do all ur checks

 

this is a freshly built motor with a brand new water pump that was working fine last week, also new dual core aluminum radiator.

 

Air bubbles in the system?

Cars are hard pressed to overheat at idle...if the fan is working.

 

this thing doesn't have a bleeder s i just left the radiator cap off for 20min.

you can tell when the thermostat opens coz the coolant starts to move. Hell i've even let it sit there with out the thermostat in it & it still over heats... it's really frustrating!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Running925 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this thing doesn't have a bleeder s i just left the radiator cap off for 20min.

you can tell when the thermostat opens coz the coolant starts to move. Hell i've even let it sit there with out the thermostat in it & it still over heats... it's really frustrating!</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is it really overheating? Maybe the gauge or sender is off? How long does it take to show hot when starting it cold and letting it idle? What is the coolant temp at the radiator fill neck? Does the fan/s come on?

 

it's definatly over heating, i had my laptop connected to the ecu to confirm it, the boiling coolant is also a major sign!

 

Have you checked it for a blown headgasket?

 

yep it's fine...

 

all i can say is do a leakdown test on it..

 

SOLVED

radiator was mounted 4inches lower than stock location due to the kids supid manifold.

Radiator was relocated to a higher location & car idles without overheating!

Test drive will happen after work tonight, i'm glad to have this thing close to done so i can have some space back in my garage!

 

damn 4 inches i would have loved to see how low that sat. congrats on the fix