I been street tuning for awhie and was wondering what are u guys doing with ur timing I'm taken out .85 to 1.00 degrees per psi. What are u tuners doing

 

Bump come on I know people tune

 

Sync your distributor timing to your engine management system.

Start with around 1-1.25 deg of ignition retard per psi until you get on a dyno where you can tune ignition timing....

 

even on low compression motors im finally startin to tune built motors on lower compression.. you can add more timing with that am i correct

 

dyno

 

x3^

if you cant afford to do it right you cant afford to do it twice.

 

x4^^^

 

I run .75 degree retard on most steet tuned b series setups

On mine I run a step retard .25/.5/.75 scaled every couple psi

On street tuned d series setups I run 1 degree per lb.

Some people cant afford dyno time. So I tune theirs safe instead of turning down business.

 

i was gonna ask the same , to see what most other people are doing,

i just finished my built b18c and i tuned it my self on the dyno, i am using ectune and just set the ignition to retard 1 degree per pound of boost, i spent along time tuning every cell under all different loads, and never touched ignition.

i made 386hp and 270tq, at 10psi , my thinking is , is there any need to touch timing? surely if i want more power i can increase the boost and map the rest. but keeping the igniton retarded will keep it in a safe area ?.

or am i thinking about this wrong ?

 

Its more fuel efficient because you can make more power with the same amount of fuel.

 

if your running a D-series, use 1.0 retard upto 10psi, after that use 1.25 retard
if your running a B series, ise .75 retard upto 10psi, after that use 1.0 retard

this is assuming your running the highest octane, and burning no oil, and have a catch can.


but if your not sure and what not, just run retard 1.25 on everything.

 

I had a question bout my set up..... lots of questions. Ive been going through honda-tech for 4 days now and cant find any information on my questions except for bits and pieces every where that i cant really put together and i didnt wanna make new threads cuz its already overflowing. So i just went to a random thread that i thought my post would fit and if it doesnt fit here please tell me where to post it.

I must tell you my set up in order for you to lead me in the right direction, i think. Ill tell you my question below.

-1991 b16a head ported and polished intake and exhaust ports.
-Valve seats has been reseated with new valves
-1991 b16a manifold ported and polished
-GSR cams year unkown... w/ pr3 cam gears
-i have no adjustable cam gears at this time but ill get them soon.
-1989-1991 b16a distributor (is this ok to run or do i need msd)
-stock b18b1 block with stock water/oil pump 70k miles on it. It came from an old ladies automatic LS i think that kinda helps kekeke.
-venom fuel rail
-high flow fuel filter
-fuel pressure regulator
-440 rc injectors
-walbro 255 fuel pump
-b18b1 transmission or b16a1 transmission i have both (still debating) what do u prefer?
-act hdss clutch kit sprug street disc (i thought street disc for even wear on the flywheel)
-i will be using the b16a flywheel

-t3/t4 turbo :
.57 compressor wheel
3" inlet diameter with a 2" outlet
.50 A/R compressor housing
.63 A/R turbine housing

-35mm waste gate
-bov and intercooler w/ all piping and small stuff like turbo timer and stuff ... what else do i need to say cuz i dun wanna tell yall bout my rear drum brakes. hahaha i dun care!
-hondata s300 chiped p28 ecu

I am very familure with these motors and done 3 engine swaps in my own car, but have never done any turbos. I've done b18b1 with b16a heads, and b20z with b16a heads... but nothing like with b16a with gsr cams or turbo.

Ok thats what it is... damn! im thinking stock internals? after all that money ... ef it.. ill be ok with 8 lbs of boost and a thicker head gasket.

Ive read GSR and b16a camshaft is very simular so... will i be ok to set my valve lash to gsr specs on this b16a head with stock ls block (worried about valves hitting pistons) Also my hondata s300. I know there are preset configurations for different applications... damn too bad they didint have an ls vtec turbo aplication i can work with. Ive been comparing in the Smanenger "b18c5 rev hard turbo 440cc injectors" to the "b16a greddy turbo" with the "LS vtec 440 injectors etc..." i have a very good understanding of why the settings are the way they are and all but when i compare the "lsvtec" settings to a regular stock "b18c5" it just boggles my mind.

When the comparing the lsvtec settings to stock b18c5 or p72 gsr settings i thought that there would be at least a little resemblence. I know that the lsvtec settings are tuned for 440cc injectors and all other small unknown things but i thought at least the ignition at low and high speeds from 1000 rpm to 5000 rpm would some what be simular.<--- confused?

I've been reading a lot of post and know about too much advancing is bad and same goes with too much retarding. I've read of the air fuel ratio settings must be around 11.5 to 13.00 or somthing along that line, depending on engine set up and exhaust gas temperatures. What happend to 14 to 1? <--- confused there.

I just wanna tune it my self to the best of my abilities for the drive to the shop that way i can watch them tune it and understand it more... that way i could set it my self for differnt altemeter and dewpoint settings or somthing like that ya know what i mean.

 

naa for realz, i just wanna tune it myself so i wont have to pay them lol. I just want to run 8lbs of boost with working vtec. I dont care about maximum potential of like 300hp+ ill be happy with at least 250hp.

One more thing how much yall think this will make... i have no freken idea... maybe 260 im guessing with the hondata s300 with the b18c5 turbo settings or b16a turbo preset settings (probly not even safe with damn stock block). I was thinking bout using those preset settings and just droping each column 3-4 steps in the higher rpm ranges (5000-8000rpm) is that ok to drive?

 

you must not have searched very much

any stock cam is fine for any valve srings-itr, gsr, b16 are all fine.

you dont need a thicker head gasket on 8 psi, i wouldnt even put anything other than oem on there.

ls trans- highway puller
b16 gears are t0 short with high power, your setup you would proably want the b16.too

 

thanks very much for clearing that valve lash up. I might as well go with itr lash cuz it sounds cooler hehehe jk .... ill do some research on which has best settings to match what i want. thanks.

 

thanks thats all i wanted to here right there..you cant turn down the business..but i still dont want to give them a **** tune and boom everyone know that A/F ratios are easy to tune just timeing i wanted a second opinion

 

I start pretty safe on timing like 1.25 degrees per psi. I tune the fuel tables and check the spark plugs after every pull to see what timing looks like.

 

if you want to do timing on the streets go buy 4 pryometers and check EGT's and plugs after each pull. but buying 4 pryometers is costly so it would be easier and cheaper to just go dyno.

 

k ive made my mind from peeps tellin me... dyno i must if i wanted to be safe especially with stock block.