Ok I kinda dry fitted everything today. I installed the manny turbo and downpipe. When I looked under the car at the downpipe placement it seemed way off--like waaaaay off. Kinda pointing towards the rear right wheel instead of straight back. Now, since it has the flex pipe I can bend it (against the way it wants to go) towards to where the cat/test pipe would be due to only it being a flex pipe. But to me it is causing unnecessary tension again the rest of the downpipe. Has any one else came across this problem, or is it a manufacturing error that I need to address. I really really hope that it isnt a problem cause I waited ******* forever tfor this damn thing---I think everyone knows about the petty problems that Maxrev has with the customer service.
Here are some pics of the fitment.
If you arent a Maxrev user, can you comment on this too.

This pic is taken from directly under the cat back looking towards the front. Basically you shouldnt see the dp flange off to the side
A straight on view, from the front of the car looking back. Probably more noticeable

This is me pulling the dp to the side to where the cat/test pipe would need to be connected to giving its a straight connection to the catback (which it undoubtably should be). It seemed to me that I had to provide too much effort to move the dp to the side via the flexpipe to get it to line up properly.


Please tell me what I should do. Im about to call up Maxrev and bitch about it, but I want to ask your guys opinion first.
Basically, is it bad to have the flexpipe move that much without any unneccesary force to have it line up to the rest of the exhaust? Remember also that under normal conditions (boosting) that the motor will move back and forth in the motor mounts......
Thanks guys!





[Modified by 93LSivic, 10:30 PM 4/8/2002]

 

I know this doesn't answer your question...but could I get a flexpipe at a muffler shop? TIA

 

humm very intiresting, i have the same setup from maxrev,dp,mani,turbo. you might need to go to a muffler shop and have them bend the dp slightly. prolly better off running open dp and driving the car there....imo i would not pull on the thing to forve it to fit. i know this is a dumb ? but you have the turbo on facing correctly? do you have a pic of your dp before you installed it? im ver intirested in this matter because im getting ready to install my stuff real soon.

 

Hmm.. that sucks. Mine actually happened to fit just fine. My only gripe about the dp is that it actually touches the ac compressor. We'll see if that'll cause a problem later on, but probably not. Other than that, the dumptube I got from them wouldn't fit at all, so it had to be cut and rewelded. Not a big deal, but just another little quirk with their stuff I guess. Bottom line is that you probably got a screwed up dp, I'm not all that surprised.

-Mike

 

hey i think im going to have the same problem..
i spent the day taking off my oil pan. and tryin to work out which bloody bits of the earl fittings go where...and where the hell to tap the oil from..

anyway i quicky bolted up the turbo and the manifold.. and i had a problem with it fittin so we have to notch the block a bit. to make it fit..
but i held the downpipe in place and yeah.. had the same problem as you describe...
also iv had to remove my AC fan.. and were going to get a aftermarket fan to make it fit and mount it on the frount.. did you have these same problems ??

also i had a quick look at my dupe tube i also think that will need modifing.. this is on my 94 crx ( Del sol ) with a b16a2 engine....

Regards James

 

Tap the oil from the back of the block... Remove the stock oil press. sending unit and install a fitting there. You have different options as to how you want to hook it up though. Many people simply cross-thread a 1/8" NPT t-fitting into the block w/ teflon paste and call it a day, some people use the BSPT to NPT converter, it's upto you. I did retap the stock BSPT to 1/8" NPT w/ a tap on a car before and it turned out quite well. That way you don't have to use a converter and the threads are a true 1/8" npt.

Just curious.. which same problem did you have? Were you referring to the previous person's problem about the dp being crooked or about it touching the compressor?

Notching the block is necessary w/ any decent sized turbo, no way around it..

AC fan definetly has to go. I knew that from the get-go. Most kits require a slim-fan ac fan. I changed the main fan to a slim fan for clearance purposes as well. I do have an integra, so I believe the clearances are a little different. Good luck.

-Mike

 

would you have a photo of your oil send setup ! ? to help me visualise it...

as for the same problems. i was talkin about the downpipe being off centre.. loooking like it won't fit square on. also the dupe pipe looks like it won't fit either... but my mechanic shop will just re weld for me... to make it all fit.... or bend.
Good to hear that its normal to notch the block ! and yeah i was going to consider replacing the main fan also.. just to make even more room down there.
but thanks for ya input mike ! yay

Regards James

 

i had a similar problem with my DRAG downpipe, i actually had to calculate the degree of the bends, then bring it to a mufflar shop and basically say: "ok i need this bent 3degrees to the right, and down about 1/2 inch" so they bent it and it worked fine, but mine was like that to start too........royal pain

 

what part of your body is that,i cant tell where your at heheh.Not bashing just its bothering me.

 

i disagree... but who am i to say anything... i just have a fairly large t4 and didnt touch the block

ill shutup now

 

i have a d16 and i had to notch the block for my T3/t4 i also had to cut out the ac fan. bought a cheap 10 inch fan from summit and installed it infront of the radiator as far as the pipe not fiting i would just bring it to a muffler shop and i am sure they will bend if for about 10 bucks. also just call up maxrev they might pick up the bill to fix it. it will cost less to fix it then send it back. shipping alone will be 10 bucks, one way!


[Modified by CovertFI, 3:35 PM 4/8/2002]


[Modified by CovertFI, 3:37 PM 4/8/2002]

 

I was referring to the log style manifolds and cars that retain AC.... Maybe I was being too general.. Of course if you have a manifold that positions the turbo out further you don't have to worry about clearances w/ the block.

-Mike

 

Ok, I know this topic has come up many times before. I would try doing a search, it should definetly come up. Just for a quick explanation though..

The stock sending unit is located just above the oil filter on the back of the block. I -think- it's like a 24mm socket that'll remove it. It only has 1 wire going to it. Remove it and that's where you'll connect the pressure line for the turbo.

-Mike

 

Unless the downpipe is built /on your car/, it is really hard to get it to line up perfectly.

My stock drag downpipe fit way worse than your maxrev downpipe. Use the flex pipe to compensate, it will be fine.

Dustin

 

dustin do you have any pictures of your oil send setup from the block to the turbo.. ie actualy photo's of the earl fittings taped into the block ? and the T peice
???

Regards James

 

I have the same prob and yeah, I really don't want to wait to for max rev to fix it. I think they are a bit understaffed in some areas. They are nice bunch of guys, but lack a customer service dept which they need if they plan on selling to the general public.

 

Ok, just got off the phone with Curtis. This is what he told me.

Where the turbo mounts to the manifold-- the bolts that are used in the flange are 3/8" bolts. The bolt holes in the turbo itself are 7/16". he recommended I loosen all 4 bolts with the downpipe bolted on to the turbo and just with the 1/16" freeplay it should move the dp enough at the rear flange to line up properly with the cat/test pipe and then the rest of the exhaust.
Stupid me, I didnt think of this. When I put everything on I started by bolting the turbo to the manifold tight and bolting that onto the head as a complete unit---then bolted the dp and thats when I noticed the misalignment.

The only thing that sucks is this. I took everything off and put my headers/cat back on today so I can drive it. So I cant go ahead and do htis untill I have time to pull the exhaust back off.
He did tell me that if it was still off that he would send me another dp. He also mentioned that it would not be a good idea to just use the flex pipe as a fix and bend it to where it needs to be. Also he mentioned that I shouldnt have it fixed locally cause I will need to return this one to him for "factory" repair.

Hope this will help some of you guys.

 

this is exaclty why i am doing my own custom kit. I know everybody does not have access to a welder/shop but every kit i looked into had some kind of problem. though max-rev did seem to have one of the better unfinished kits.

 

Here's a link to Dustin's pix... used 'em myself a time or 2.
http://imglib.************/index.cgi?cmd=viewcat&id=1
The one's in question are on down and labeled as such:
Oil Pressure Switch
Brass Oil Tee
Tee Installed

 

my downpipe has a similar problem.. I just bolted it up and used the flexpipe to compensate, also, I unhooked the exhaust from 1 hanger(actually couldnt get it back on) so the exhaust moved to side a lil to compensate for the downpipe.. SO far its holding up fine but I would much rather it not being this way, Im going to get a custom midpipe made to fix it.. Only thing im afraid of is, is that the stress on the downpipe could cause uneven torque onto the turbo and possibly cause a downpipe bolt to come loose.. I hope not, but its working ok so far..

 

i was actually wondering the same thing

 

so how did you get this fixed???

 

Havent had a chance to mess with the dp fitting yet. Just today I completed my custom fuel system. Took me about 9 hours to complete. Would have taken less time but I tried removing the stock fuel lines without bending/kinking them. It was pretty much impossible to do without removing the whole subframe. I said F it and just cut those bitches out. I am very happy with the outcome, had a little problem with my on injector leaking but fixed it with a new O-ring. Its now ready to feed a seriously thirsty motor--of which I dont have yet, until I get the block sleeved and built. I figure I would do everything the right way the first time.
I will let everyone know the outcome of the dp fitment when I have a chance to install the turbo kit. Hopefully this week if time allows me!

 

i hope you aren't going under the car with that jack holding you up?