I have a 96 d16y8. Stock everything.
We put together a turbo kit, installed it, tested the car on 5 lbs...idled fine & drove fine.

**1st test run** 1st problem- radiator cap blew...replaced it.
2nd problem (same night)- car started overheating. Coolant was boiling and overflowing out of the reservoir tank (head lifting?)

Fast forward... I had the head resurfaced, hot tanked, replaced all the seals, new oem headgasket, arp headstuds, new intake mani gasket, etc

Installed everything and tested the car OUT OF BOOST... seemed to run fine, no overheating issues.

Now today, a couple days later, we checked the compression... and here are the magic #s
150-170-160-150

FYI- the car has 180k+ miles.

Now... should these #s alarm me? Correct me if Im wrong, but the compression #s could vary by 10-15% of the highest # right?

Any advice would be helpful... keep in mind... the motor has 180k+ miles. Everything was working fine before the install.

TIA

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8200RPM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Now today, a couple days later, we checked the compression... and here are the magic #s 150-170-160-150</TD></TR></TABLE>

That doesnt sound to bad.
Does it smoke at all ??

 

doesnt sound too bad at all, the motor has 180k so you cant expect it to be mint. Id say as long as it doent smoke like mad and overheat you should be cool with those compression numbers

 

No smoke...

Ive relaxed since earlier, Im not so alarmed by those #s after speaking to a few people (h-t meet today down here btw)

Anyway thanks

 

if the motor is messed up then **** it. just buy a new one because they are so damn cheap and yours has so many miles anyways.

 

yea I was about to buy a y7 for 100-150 I think... But we looked at the car, im not gonna be too bothered with the compression for now... its not THAT bad. I am gonna run thicker oil though... ive been running 10w-30.

We got the idle a bit better... now it just needs to be tuned!

And then theres another SOHC Turbo ninja roaming the streets of Miami

 

DON'T RUN THICKER OIL

The oil galleys, passages, and holes in your engine do not change size over the life of the engine. If it was designed for 10W-30 when it was new, then it still should have 10W-30 in it now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8200RPM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And then theres another SOHC Turbo ninja roaming the streets of Miami </TD></TR></TABLE>

Send the women and children to bed......she's gonna blowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww.....

for day's outstanding car knowledge

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverSellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DON'T RUN THICKER OIL

The oil galleys, passages, and holes in your engine do not change size over the life of the engine. If it was designed for 10W-30 when it was new, then it still should have 10W-30 in it now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought the manual calls for 5w30

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverSellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DON'T RUN THICKER OIL

The oil galleys, passages, and holes in your engine do not change size over the life of the engine. If it was designed for 10W-30 when it was new, then it still should have 10W-30 in it now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Then why do so many people run thicker oil and recommend it?
Please tell me if you've heard or had a problem with this before... Id like to know.<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quicksilver17981 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i thought the manual calls for 5w30</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I think thats what it is... <TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ultimatehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Send the women and children to bed......she's gonna blowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww.....

for day's outstanding car knowledge</TD></TR></TABLE>

Are you being sarcastic?

 

I've also been told to use the recommended oil...Everything in the engine was designed to use that specific oil so you CAN use other oil but it could be detrimental to your cause....

IMO the best thing you could do is just up the quality of the oil you'd be using not the "thinkness" or weight...

 

DO0 NOT SEARCH ANYWERE else.... your problem is a headgasket problem like many D16 do a search and you will find some solution...

I had and many people had this weird problem !

 

and there is anything wrong with your numbers if this motor is really old...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i thought the manual calls for 5w30</TD></TR></TABLE>

Maybe, I don't know what the manual calls for. I used 10W-30 as an example because that's what he says he is using. If it's 5W-30 in the manual, then you should still be using 5W-30 at 200,000 miles.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Then why do so many people run thicker oil and recommend it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because there are VERY few people in the world who actually know what they are talking about when it comes to the oil they use.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Please tell me if you've heard or had a problem with this before... Id like to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, I have seen MANY cars with engines wearing out long before they should have simply from running too thick of an oil. If the engine was designed for say 5W-20 oil like so many are today, then the passages and holes in the bearings are very small, and the tolerances are very tight. Thick oil does not run so well into tight areas, and you end up with more of a chance for metal/metal contact. Run the oil weight that the manufacturer recommends if you are on a stock motor. If you are on a built motor with different tolerances and different bearing sizes, then run what your machinist recommends, assuming your machinist is not an idiot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by yellowturbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DO0 NOT SEARCH ANYWERE else.... your problem is a headgasket problem like many D16 do a search and you will find some solution...

I had and many people had this weird problem ! </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know this... I already replaced my headgasket. Just like most all other boosted D16 owners.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SilverSellout &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Maybe, I don't know what the manual calls for. I used 10W-30 as an example because that's what he says he is using. If it's 5W-30 in the manual, then you should still be using 5W-30 at 200,000 miles.

Because there are VERY few people in the world who actually know what they are talking about when it comes to the oil they use.

Yes, I have seen MANY cars with engines wearing out long before they should have simply from running too thick of an oil. If the engine was designed for say 5W-20 oil like so many are today, then the passages and holes in the bearings are very small, and the tolerances are very tight. Thick oil does not run so well into tight areas, and you end up with more of a chance for metal/metal contact. Run the oil weight that the manufacturer recommends if you are on a stock motor. If you are on a built motor with different tolerances and different bearing sizes, then run what your machinist recommends, assuming your machinist is not an idiot...</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well you make sense... Ill stick to the oil thats recommended, and just play it safe.
Im a she btw, not a he

Thanks for your help...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8200RPM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Im a she btw, not a he

</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's hot...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbosi03 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That's hot... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Nothing sexier than a chick that can talk to you about motors

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Im a she btw, not a he</TD></TR></TABLE>

My apologies... It won't happen again

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nothing sexier than a chick that can talk to you about motors </TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.

 

No need for apologies... its not a big deal

Its just kinda like if someone referred to you as a chick, your macho ego would probably stand up and say "hey im a man!"

So anyway, thanks again for your help/opinion... I took it under consideration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its just kinda like if someone referred to you as a chick, </TD></TR></TABLE>

I've actually had that happen on several occasions, since my name is Courtney...

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">your macho ego would probably stand up and say "hey im a man!"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Macho ego? What macho ego?

 

omg how funny! How relevant...

 

So the blokes gone turbo... you had to return to that feeling of a turbo car ah?

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 8200RPM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

**1st test run** 1st problem- radiator cap blew...replaced it.
2nd problem (same night)- car started overheating. Coolant was boiling and overflowing out of the reservoir tank (head lifting?) </TD></TR></TABLE>

This would have probably been my first hint telling me to wait a little longer and turbo later.

 

This goes back to the oil posts earlier.

You were talking about how you shouldnt run thicker oil than what's recommended because the oil would be too thick to get into certain passages. What about running thinner oil? For instance, would it be okay to run 5w-30 in an engine made for 10w-30? From what I understand, the only difference is that the 5w-30 oil is thinner than the 10w-30 oil when they are cold. Once warmed up, they are both a 30 weight, correct?

 

Yes, once warm, they both flow like a conventional 30W oil would at warm temps. If you live in an area that is cold, then you should run a little thinner, like 5W-30 or even 0-W30 if it's really cold.

 

heh....is this who i think it is....