Is there a problem with my break-in logic here?
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From: VA, USA
Is there a problem with my break-in logic here?
https://honda-tech.com/zerothre...04343
^ I figured that would be the way to go, but have never really heard of anyone doing that before. Am I wrong in some unseen way, or would that be fine?
^ I figured that would be the way to go, but have never really heard of anyone doing that before. Am I wrong in some unseen way, or would that be fine?
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From: TX, USA
Ive heard of doing it like that before.
There is so much controversy over how to properly break in a motor.... I almost think there isnt even really a wrong way. It seems like both ways work fine. I havent seen anybody complain about breaking in amotor from tuning it right away, or from them breaking it in putting so many miles on before they tune.
that way seems fine to me, I would probabyl do it like that.
There is so much controversy over how to properly break in a motor.... I almost think there isnt even really a wrong way. It seems like both ways work fine. I havent seen anybody complain about breaking in amotor from tuning it right away, or from them breaking it in putting so many miles on before they tune.
that way seems fine to me, I would probabyl do it like that.
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From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: (numbnuts22715)
You won't get very much change in AFR's by adjusting ignition timing [via the distributor]. If its dumping too much gas, it will still wash out your rings, and if its severely lean, it will barely run. The other problem is the load at idle - there is none on a lightweight inline-4. Opperating at 21 in/Hg is not going to put any pressure behind the rings.
If you want to get technical, that would be okay for a mild setup change & bearing break-in, but you will not really seat your rings until you push it.
If you want to get technical, that would be okay for a mild setup change & bearing break-in, but you will not really seat your rings until you push it.
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From: VA, USA
Re: (HiProfile)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You won't get very much change in AFR's by adjusting ignition timing [via the distributor]. If its dumping too much gas, it will still wash out your rings, and if its severely lean, it will barely run. The other problem is the load at idle - there is none on a lightweight inline-4. Opperating at 21 in/Hg is not going to put any pressure behind the rings.
If you want to get technical, that would be okay for a mild setup change & bearing break-in, but you will not really seat your rings until you push it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I still think I'd be better off with the stock ECU and injectors than I would a shitty basemap that I don't even know will run.
If you want to get technical, that would be okay for a mild setup change & bearing break-in, but you will not really seat your rings until you push it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well, I still think I'd be better off with the stock ECU and injectors than I would a shitty basemap that I don't even know will run.
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From: b00sting my D16s, SoWis, USA
Re: (Tippyman)
I guess I focused on the wrong part of your post. I thought the 'dialing in AFRs by turning the dizzy' was what you were getting at. THAT is a bad idea.
Using a stock ecu and stock injectors on a relatively stock motor will be fine (better than a basemap), but don't expect to go past 10 in/Hg, as thats nearing the load points that will put you into open loop and get rich/lean AFRs. However, if you can get someone who understands what your setup will change, a closed-loop basemap thats just slightly tweaked will be better than the stock ecu.
Using a stock ecu and stock injectors on a relatively stock motor will be fine (better than a basemap), but don't expect to go past 10 in/Hg, as thats nearing the load points that will put you into open loop and get rich/lean AFRs. However, if you can get someone who understands what your setup will change, a closed-loop basemap thats just slightly tweaked will be better than the stock ecu.
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From: VA, USA
Re: (HiProfile)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I guess I focused on the wrong part of your post. I thought the 'dialing in AFRs by turning the dizzy' was what you were getting at. THAT is a bad idea.
Using a stock ecu and stock injectors on a relatively stock motor will be fine (better than a basemap), but don't expect to go past 10 in/Hg, as thats nearing the load points that will put you into open loop and get rich/lean AFRs. However, if you can get someone who understands what your setup will change, a closed-loop basemap thats just slightly tweaked will be better than the stock ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was only talking about turning the dizzy to change the AFR's at idle, not doing it and then driving it. I figured if I could get a slightly better AFR at idle right after I start it up I might as well. I plan on just setting the timing to TDC and putting a header on it to take it for a spin all motor to break the rings in before slapping on the boost stuff.
Using a stock ecu and stock injectors on a relatively stock motor will be fine (better than a basemap), but don't expect to go past 10 in/Hg, as thats nearing the load points that will put you into open loop and get rich/lean AFRs. However, if you can get someone who understands what your setup will change, a closed-loop basemap thats just slightly tweaked will be better than the stock ecu.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was only talking about turning the dizzy to change the AFR's at idle, not doing it and then driving it. I figured if I could get a slightly better AFR at idle right after I start it up I might as well. I plan on just setting the timing to TDC and putting a header on it to take it for a spin all motor to break the rings in before slapping on the boost stuff.
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From: Nashville, TN, U.S.A
Re: (Tippyman)
On a stock ECU the narrow band sensor is going to level out your AFR, so no worries there.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was only talking about turning the dizzy to change the AFR's at idle</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's been said already you don't want to nor can you change your AFR's but moving the dizzy. It won't be significant enough and like I said since you have a stock ECU it's going to auto adjust anyway
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tippyman »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I was only talking about turning the dizzy to change the AFR's at idle</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's been said already you don't want to nor can you change your AFR's but moving the dizzy. It won't be significant enough and like I said since you have a stock ECU it's going to auto adjust anyway
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From: VA, USA
Re: (adseguy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's been said already you don't want to nor can you change your AFR's but moving the dizzy. It won't be significant enough and like I said since you have a stock ECU it's going to auto adjust anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, nevermind my dumb *** then...
It's been said already you don't want to nor can you change your AFR's but moving the dizzy. It won't be significant enough and like I said since you have a stock ECU it's going to auto adjust anyway</TD></TR></TABLE>
OK, nevermind my dumb *** then...
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