EnzoSpeed

So I searched around on ebay for some good oil inlet/outlet flanges. Most companies seemed to be selling the same thing - 6061 aluminum CNC'd flanges.

But I came upon the function7 flanges and was impressed. They are made out of 7075 aluminum and are CNC'd. The company doesn't include gaskets because it claims you don't need them. I was skeptical at first.

But I bought them - both flanges for $36 shipped. At first glance, I'm not too impressed. Look at the large pic - you might not be able to tell, but the threads are pretty messed up. I don't know if this is a result of the manufacturing process or if the threads were damaged during handling.

Also, on the return flange, there were large flecks of metal in the threads that I had to pick out.

Looking at the backs of the flanges, you can see why they say you don't need gaskets. The inlet flange is sprayed with copper, then a sticker is placed over the copper to keep it from rubbing off prior to installation. On the return flange, there is no copper spray, but there is still a sticker on the back - probably to keep the flange clean and free of dents for a good seal.

So I don't think I'm too impressed with these. They were overly hyped up and didn't come through. Both flanges have messed up threads, and there is copper spray clogging the inlet flange and I will have to clean it out before I use it.


On a positive note, the hardware that was included is topppppppp notch. You know you are getting sweet bolts when they are black - hardened to 12.9 . Both the bolts and washers are hardened. If you were to go to True Value and buy these four bolts and four washers, that alone would probably cost you about $8 because grade 12.9 hardware is very expensive.

hondaguyef

Quality doesn't look to good but, hey you get what you pay for. $36 for both including hardware isn't bad at all. I would still use gaskets regardless of what the instructions said. Good heads up

Phil

EnzoSpeed

Yeah, the $36 was by working my ebay magic. A lot of people pay $40 + ship for these things. They are supposed to be the best you can buy.

tepid1

I bought their inlet and outlet. 3an inlet sucked. It would not fully seat because the threads did not go to the base if the flange, like yours. They said that an exchange would be no problem... No thanks. The 10an return is still on the turbo. Works great too. All in all I owuld not buy from Function7 again. There is better stuff out there for the same price.

stealthmode62

We've been using Function 7 drain flanges in our oil line kits since the beginning. We include gaskets just because, though.


Haven't got my hands on any of the inlet flanges, but from our experience with the drain flanges they get a

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

I bought one of their return flanges with a -10an fitting already in place. The quality is fine, but I know what you're talking about with the threads. Toward the end of the threading it's thin like aluminum foil. The threads themselves are good, it just needs to be cleaned up a little. I scraped this off with my fingernail. Also, during the machining process, metal fragments and oil stuck to the inside. I peeled the sticker off and cleaned it with brake cleaner. There was no copper spray, but the instructions included with it recommended doing this. I chose to use a gasket instead, and stealthmode62 was nice enough to send me one. I wasn't aware that those black bolts were anything special. I ditched them for stainless. Overall, I'm happy with it.

Cloner

Yeah same here I ordered a set and the inlet and outlet flange was full of aluminum flakes. The 3an inlet threads were jacked up.They can be fixed easily if you run a 3an line screw it on then back the threads off and repeat till it looks clean.They shouldnt need prep work.Hopefully in the 3an inlet doesnt strip.

gdrum

I can vouch I used these when they came out on my setup for over 13k miles before I sold it and never had a single leak or problem.

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A Grenade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Toward the end of the threading it's thin like aluminum foil. The threads themselves are good, it just needs to be cleaned up a little. I scraped this off with my fingernail. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, that's exactly it. I sat there picking at the threads also - it's just like foil.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I wasn't aware that those black bolts were anything special. I ditched them for stainless.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Noooooo!!!! That sucks. I drool over hardware like this, lol. If you ever get black hardware, just look at the top - if it has "12.9" stamped in somewhere, then it's the strongest stuff you can buy.

Sprockets

iTrader: (6)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Noooooo!!!! That sucks. I drool over hardware like this, lol. If you ever get black hardware, just look at the top - if it has "12.9" stamped in somewhere, then it's the strongest stuff you can buy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Rust has become one of my pet peeves ever since I got it in my eye when removing my old downpipe. I don't think a tiny aluminum flange needs a heavy duty bolt anyway, but thanks for the info.

EnzoSpeed

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16A Grenade &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Rust has become one of my pet peeves ever since I got it in my eye when removing my old downpipe.</TD></TR></TABLE>


Ha ha, sorry, but that made me laugh . I can just see you being disgruntled forever now.

And the black hardware doesn't rust either...

DavidR

Thanks for the feedback.

I'll try to address your concerns.
The reason for the threads to look very thin at the end of the fitting is because the AL is so strong, it can actually hold the shape of the thread. When most other flanges are made, that portion of the thread breaks off from the fitting. There is nothing wrong with leaving the thin threads there, they won't hurt a thing. If you look down further at the threads, you can see they are full thickness.

I now include gaskets with all Function7 flanges I sell, but of the 400+ flanges I have sold, not one customer has come back complaining about a leaky flange. When I had the gaskets made, the gasket manufacture said to use the thinnest gasket I could get away with, as it was the strongest. He said the copper spray is probably more than enough, but since my customers kept asking for gaskets, I had some made. The material used is 1/32" thick and is impregnated with carbon fiber for extra strength, as well as the ability to sustain a seal past 800F. It is also graphite coated to seal all imprefections in the turbo housing.

Early F7 flanges did not have a fully threaded flange, but have since been modified. The reason this was done is because of the varying styles of AN fittings on the market. Some have fewer threads than others, while some require more than 1/2" of thread to seal properly.

The bolts we include are about the strongest you can, and way more than you need. While stainless bolts may not get rusty (this depends on the quality of the stainless used in the bolt as some will still rust), stainless is actually a weaker material, in a bolt form.

Hope that helps guys, and if you have any more questions, feel free to drop me a line.

SynTeg

I wasn't very happy with mine. I had the oil inlet flange and it snapped in 2 pieces when I was tightening it(wasn't that tight either). I had to redo one side of my oil feed line because and the threaded piece that broke off and got stuck in the line. The aluminum just isnt that strong.

DavidR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SynTeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not very happy with mine. I had the oil inlet flange and it snapped in 2 pieces when I was tightening it(wasn't that tight either). I had to redo one side of my oil feed line because and the threaded piece that broke off and got stuck in the line. The aluminum just isnt that strong.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Over-torquing is the main cause of snapping these flanges. 7075 AL is stronger than 6061, which is what most other flanges are made of. AN fittings require very little pressure to seal, you should a small wrench to tighten them as not to over torque them. What size fitting did you purchase?

Boosted96EK

Im using their feed flange -4an w/ built in restrictor and I have no complaints!