Pellegrini808

Hey guys i just got some low compression cp pistons with eagle rods stock bore. Ive done research on the earl laskey breakin method, but it doesnt say how to break in a new turbo build with new forged pistons and rods. I thought you can only use synthetic oil with turbos? I read synthetic might be to slick for the rings to be seated rite. Also laskey says to tune the car rite away, but most people say not to go into boost for like 500 miles, at tuning shops they push the car to the limit. I want a tune from engineticks and its a a hour driev from my house, i was previously tuned o n chrome, but now i have hondata s300, is it safe to drive that far on my old tune, i just added the new pistons, rods, and bearings

doood

iTrader: (1)

use break in oil. my engine builder used brad penn break in oil for my forged internal rebuild. did the break in and street tune right away just like the method on laskey's site.

enginetiks did my final dyno tune as well. casey know's what he's doing. ask him what he prefers and listen to it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Break-in oil or conventional oil only.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

You never use synthetic for initial startup. The oil is actually too slippery and you'll have issues with rings sealing and other issues

Use a petroleum based non synthetic. Most use a single viscosity oil like straight 30w. Or you can use an oil purposely designed just for engine break in. Either oil works

twkdCD595

This.

I personally had always just used a cheap straight 30 weight non detergent SAE oil.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I don't think it even matters but its a waste of money. The goal is to change the oil frequently during break in to flush out debris.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Truth... that's what most of fhe old school engine builders use for break in

mar778c

iTrader: (1)

Agreed


X3.


Also, I've gotten into the habit of breaking in on the dyno. It used to be rolled back. Now, just push it across the parking lot.

Pellegrini808

my shop called motul for their break in oil and they said that I don't need break in oil because I didn't hone/bore the block I went with stock bore pistons. they said to use their 10W 40 sysnthetic, which I always use for my car

redboost10

We use either brad penn break-in oil or diesel oil

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you replaced the bearings you need break in oil

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Joe Gibbs break in oil with super high zinc content would be optimal for break in but any conventional motor oil will work. The zinc is going to give you the best protection. After break in is complete Joe Gibbs oil depending how the motor is setup clearance wise and where you live will determine what weight you will run. On average everyone runs 10w30 which would be xp3. You can also run Brad Penn oil and if you don't want to spend that much at least run valvoline vr1 synthetic or rotella synthetic

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

LightningTeg

I ran some supertech walmart special 30WT for the first 2 oil changes then put in some better conventional for break in and when it was all good, VR1 20-50

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

We spend a **** load of money on these cars and engines. I dont like shelling out the money for high dollar oil as much as the next guy but when you think about what you've got invested in a motor its only logical to protect it with the right oil IMO. IE my new diesel truck yeah I can run rotella 15w40 for 14 bucks a gallon but why not spend 21 a gallon on rotella t6 synthetic which is going to prolong the life of the motor.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Exactly

LightningTeg

I run good oil now, but during the first startup I wasnt worried about it with the amount of assembly lube in there.

redboost10

we put the walmart oil in for the first 10 minute warm up as well, then drain it, retorque the head, put the break-in oil in, break in the engine, then run the good stuff

DDTECH

I've built quite a few motors, and have also used 10w30 conventional oil all the time on break-in..

However, something that I've recently been up on, is when I've rebuilt Audi motors, the engineers never once, told us to use break-in oil, We've always used the same oil we use in oil changes.. which was Castrol syn 5w-40. Just food for thought, parts, oil and building has advanced awhole lot..

Runnerdown

Ive used synthetics plenty of times but if your going to dump it out after a few hours runtime then don't bother. Recommending brand x vs brand y and claiming one is better protection is bs. Without data to compare them on a specific engine it's a guessing game as to what's the best.

Break in oil is mostly marketing hype and is not needed. A well built engine that has been machined and cleaned properly can use the oil for the same interval that new cars use. Backyard hack rebuilds can be filthy and full of junk which often time the heavy stuff stays in the bottom of the pan anyways.

Let's face it, most of us change the oil more than necessary because it feels good. I have run every kind of oil there is, the only testimonial I can give is to motul 300v. I got a set of used toda cams that had surprise wear on one of the lobes, they were only suppose to be used one race. 4+ years of road racing later they still look the same with no wear. Pretty unscientific but most cams I've seen don't last with any sort of lobe scarring or damage.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I can say for a fact mobil1 isn't the oil it used to be. Some regulations caused them to reformulate their base stock and it contains far less anti-wear additives than it used to.

The only oils I would consider for use and abuse in a turbo motor is motul, bradd penn, some royal purple, and rotella t6... the diesel oils always have high levels of anti-wear additives due to most diesels seeing large spans of time operating under load and at an almost constant rpm level, not to mention you've got 17 liters of motor making ungodly amounts of torque. It takes a large oil volume and pressure to keep a stable oil film on those bearings surfaces. So if it will work on an over the road turbo diesel, I think it'll be fine for a turbo Honda

Pellegrini808

Im plaining on using some cheap 10w 30 conventual chevron with techron oil for initail start-up/break in. Change after 100 miles than 500 miles than put the good motul synthetic in after, sound good? Also no ones answered my wuestion about tuning it rite away and if an hour drive is safe on an old tune to the tune shop

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Here's what I do

Inital start up at low idle. This is to get the various fluid systems up to temp, check for any leaks/issues and do initial idle tuning. .
Change oil and filter (still cheap standard oil)
2nd start up, set idle speed at various rpm between normal warm idle and 3000rpm for about 20-30 minutes This will put various loads on the motor and if built right, seat the rings (rings are round, pistons aee round, cylinders are round. With todays materials it doesn't take long for things to seat and seal
Change oil and filter again, this time use the oil you plan on running the most
Put car or trailer, tow to tuner
Put car on dyno and let it idle till all temps reach operating range
Start tuning process, normally with some light load half or quarter pulls, this is to make sure everything about the turbo system is functional and give the rings a chance to fully seat under high cylinder pressures
Then start tuning aka beating the **** out of it on the dyno

I've seen many motors done this way that thousands of miles later have less than 1% leakdown across all cylinders. I don't know how many of you knew Earl Laksey of Laskey Racing but he was one of the great Honda builders and a very beloved and contributory member on this site, may he rest in peace. The above mentioned process was what Earl commonly preached for engine break in. I just add that first idle cycle to verify the car is solid

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

If you have to drive it to the tuner then don't stay at a constant engine speed too long, vary rpm/speed and what gesr you're in. This will ensure the motor is as ready as it will ever be for the dyno

Pellegrini808

Thanks man that was good usefull infprmation