Swaintech coatings
09-20-2006, 05:15 PM
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Re: Swaintech coatings (MAFDARK)
Aren't they local to you? I think it would be easier for you to stop by or call them for a price qoute. I have only heard great things about them though, I plan to get in touch with them for my stuff.
09-20-2006, 05:18 PM
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09-20-2006, 06:00 PM
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Re: Swaintech coatings (MAFDARK)
I personally do not care for their piston coating. I am not sure if they changed the process of curing their coated pistons, but they come in a sealed bag and require the engine to be started 24-48hrs after the bag is opened in order to properly cure.
The coatings also wore off when the pistons were handled as well as installed into the block. To me I think that is total bullshit. When the engine was taken apart the next season everything was fine... but the coatings were gone.
The coatings also wore off when the pistons were handled as well as installed into the block. To me I think that is total bullshit. When the engine was taken apart the next season everything was fine... but the coatings were gone.
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09-20-2006, 07:49 PM
#8
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I paid $300 for the following, but that included shipping back to me which was between $70 and $80 (at least that's what it cost me to ship it to them).
I think they did a damn good job. The coating is tough too, I had to grind some off for bolt clearance and it destroyed multiple dremel bits before I finally got all of it off.
I think they did a damn good job. The coating is tough too, I had to grind some off for bolt clearance and it destroyed multiple dremel bits before I finally got all of it off.
09-21-2006, 11:25 AM
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not good odds of this, but does anyone have pictures of their swaintech coating painted?
On their site they say the coating is an amazing base for high temp paint.
On their site they say the coating is an amazing base for high temp paint.
09-21-2006, 06:18 PM
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Re: Swaintech coatings (MAFDARK)
From a post I made in Full-Race Geoff's coating thread a while back
* What's Swain Tech's turnaround time?
Typical turn time for internal engine parts is about 1 1/2 weeks give or take a few days. It is closer to 2 weeks give or take a few days for exhaust parts.
* Is there an advantage to using Swain Tech's coating over another company's coating?
Swain Tech was founded by Dan Swain, a ceramic engineer and at the time of our inception, a NASCAR asphalt modified racer. Our coatings were developed by Dan as he used his ceramic engineering education and applied it to his race team. Early versions of the coatings were developed in the early 1970's. In 1973, Dan took his internal engine coatings to NASCAR country and worked with Junior Johnson and other leading crew chiefs to perfect and prove the technology in the demanding Winston Cup series. Once the technology was perfected, Swain Tech Coatings was established.
As the 1980's got under way and Swain Tech gained acceptance of this type of technology, there were companies such as HPC and Jet Hot that came onto the scene. When they first started, those guys would go around to trade shows selling their exhaust coatings as good looking corrosion resistant coatings and they were correct. Over the years we have recommended many people to Jet Hot if they were looking for that shiny look. Where I get disappointed in those companies is somewhere in the late 1980's those same coatings that were formerly sold as corrosion resistant and cosmetic coatings were now being sold as "thermal barrier coatings". In the 1990's we would see basically a copy of our advertisement, but with their names on it claiming a slightly higher radiant heat reduction than what we advertised. This disappointed us because both of those companies really do have good cosmetic coatings and those coatings are excellent for show cars, motorcycles or other applications where the shiny looks is the primary function of the coating. However, there is no way their thin, paint based exhaust coating can come anywhere near the heat insulation of our pure, thick ceramic exhaust coating. Those companies do have a good looking product that will offer some thermal insulation, but it really is a looks first coating.
What makes Swain different is that we are a true engineering company that offers hundreds of different coatings to help solve the problems of heat, friction, wear and corrosion. We do have our racing division where we deal with pistons, heads, bearings, headers, etc., but the bigger part of our company is our industrial division. We have ceramics, metals, carbides, polymers, organic, platings, metal conversions and many other techniques. There are other companies that talk about "industrial" coatings but when you look at what they are doing, they are using the same coating 3 or 4 coatings for every application that comes in their shop. We look at the specific challenge and then use our vast coating choices to engineer a specific answer for a specific need.
Another thing that makes us different is we have stayed with one location for our work instead of setting up regional shops. Though this may add a day or two in shipping, it has allowed us to maintain the critical quality control needed on precision high performance engine and exhaust parts. Cleaning, surface preparation and masking are almost as critical as the materials and application techniques used. We (the owners) feel strongly we want to be right here overseeing everything to be sure quality is where it needs to be. Ask around and you will find those companies that tried to regionalize have really struggled with quality. The work is tedious and painstaking and we feel it is critical that we are right here and part of the process to be sure we ship parts with the quality they should be.
* With turbo exhaust manifolds is it recommend to coat the inside, outside or both?
This question along with "What is the heat range of your coating" are two of the questions that came about due to the companies offering the paint based coatings. The most critical step in making a coating bond is applying a good abrasive blast to the substrate. This thoroughly cleans the surface and increases the surface area of the substrate to improve adhesion. There is no possible way to blast all the way through a header tube, a manifold, or a turbo housing. If that area cannot be blasted, there is no possible way a coating will permanently bond to the substrate.
The people like HPC and Jet Hot can get away with coating the inside because their coatings are based on very thin paint based materials. When the part comes back, it will look like it has a nice coating inside. However, since the inside cannot be thoroughly blasted there is no possible way the coating will actually stay bonded for much of any period of time. When those coatings come free, they are so thin (about .001" thick) they are not likely to damage turbo parts. I believe the two reasons those companies coat the inside are 1) it does look when the part comes back freshly coated in a shiny paint and 2) it is so much easier to coat all over the part than it is to take the time to mask off the inside to protect the internal surfaces from the blast to prep the part and the coating that is applied to the part.
Because we are applying a true ceramic, not a paint, we do not have the luxury of not taking the time to mask the part. Our ceramic is applied about .015" thick vs. .001" for the paint based stuff everybody else offers. There simply is not enough room for the coating in a turbo housing and the coating is thick and hard enough that it would likely damage the turbo if it came off from the inside of a turbo header or manifold. If a header or manifold is naturally aspirated, we will coat the inside as deep as possible, but any coating on the inside of a header or manifold will only be bonded about as deep as you eye can see and cannot wrap around corners or bends. When we can coat the inside of a naturally aspirated exhaust, it will offer some benefit but it will be a marginal gain because so little of the area will have a permanently bonded coating. What your eye can see would be coated and we could be like everybody else and claim it is "internally" coated, but we would be misleading to claim that.
* Is it true coating the inside of a turbo exhaust manifold creates an exogenric reaction of the heat (keeping the exhaust heat from radiating throughout the surface of the metal)?
Because so little of a manifold will have coating permanently bonded it is almost a moot point. Those applying the paint based coatings not only would have little permanently bonded coating, but they would have a coating that is so thin and has so little ceramic in it that it makes little difference in heat transfer.
* Is it true coating the outside of a turbo exhaust manifold helps keep the heat inside the turbo exhaust manifold?
The primary purpose of our coating is to keep heat inside of exhaust parts to keep exhaust gas velocities high and underhood temperatures low. This does keep more heat in the parts, but it will also move that heat more quickly through the parts. Also, the ceramic will spread the heat on the part much more evenly than a bare part would see heat distribution. This means areas that would typically be a hot or weak spot like the first bend coming off the exhaust port, a weld or collector area would actually have less stress on the base metal after it is coated, not more even though there will be higher temperatures inside the part.
The most challenging environment for exhaust parts that we see are not the latest turbo set ups, they are the vintage motor homes running big block V-8's. These motor homes have extremely limited air flow for cooling and are under heavy load at all times. It is unusual for these manifolds and headers to not be glowing red hot. We have a cult following with these folks because our coating is the only thing they have found that will reduce the heat cracking of their manifolds that occurs due to the extreme heat. We are only coating the outside of these manifolds and it typically extends the life from about 3,000 miles to 20,000 miles on their exhaust parts.
* Do coatings fade or flake off?
It would be unusual for an exhaust coating to flake off, but it could happen if the base metal expands more than what the coating can expand. That is why we chuckle when we are asked about "temperature ratings" for our coatings. Temperature ratings came from the paint based folks because their paint based materials would literally burn off at relatively low temperature for a performance exhaust and they put temperature ratings on them to help give them an out if somebody burned the coating off. With a true ceramic like we apply, the melting point is over 3,000 degrees F, but we do not advertise that because it does not mean anything practically to users of the coating. Does that mean somebody can run EGT's of 3,000 degrees? Can any motor be anything other than a solid chunk of aluminum an metal if it is close to 3,000 degrees?
The truth is if an exhaust part is at or close to the point where it glows it is possible that the outermost layer of our multi layer coating can fracture because it simply cannot expand and contract as much as the base metal does when it starts to glow. Two things to remember here are 1) if it is hot enough to fracture our outermost layer of coating, any other material would have been long gone by that time, including wraps and 2) Even if the outermost layer was fractured, there is still about .010" of bonding and a mixture of bonding coating and ceramic that is still on the part offering thermal insulation superior to any other coating.
It is unusual for any cracking or peeling to occur, but in the case where the parts glow, you can see some of that occur on the outermost layer of even our coating. Those who have tried coatings can attest to the fact that the paint based coatings would literally be gone in that type of situation and our coating could fracture, but would still have plenty of good insulating material left.
* Would coating the inside of a turbocharger's turbine housing throw off tolerances?
See above.
* What are your coatings made out of?
Our thermal barrier coatings would be ceramic based as there is no better coating material for controlling heat than ceramics. The ceramics used on internal engine parts are thin enough that clearance provisions do not need to be made and are formulated to act as highly effective thermal barriers, but no too good because our best insulating materials would actually hold too much heat in the combustion chamber surfaces (top of piston, combustion chamber and valve faces) and cause
detonation. Our TBC and Gold Coat that is used on internal engine parts will be excellent thermal barriers and actually reduce instead of encouraging detonation because they are specifically formulated for internal engine use. Internal engine thermal barriers are applied about .002-.003" thick.
Our TBC-EX exhaust coating is put on in three distinct steps. First an good insulating metal bond coat is applied to provide some heat insulation and a tenacious bond to the base metal. Next a blend of ceramic and bond coat is applied to improve the thermal insulation of the coating and to help match the expansion rate of the ceramic to the base metal. Finally a top coating of highly pure ceramic is applied to offer the best insulating thermal barrier coating. Because there are no thickness limitations on exhaust coatings, we apply a coating about .015" thick.
There are different low friction/lubricating coatings that we use on different parts. All would have a high percentage of molybdenum disulfide. Most will also have a poly matrix, lubricating and corrosion inhibiting pigments, epoxies and some even have some solvents. None would have Teflon as it is the worst thing to apply to internal engine parts. We use a fair amount of Teflon on industrial parts, but never on internal engine parts because it moves or creeps away when Teflon is
under load and it actually sheds, not attracting oil so it would be a poor choice for piston skirts, bearings, valve springs, etc. where you want to attract, not shed oil with the coating and you need the coating to be durable under load.
* What are the other's coatings made out of?
When it comes to exhaust coatings, everybody else applies high temperature paints that probably have some ceramic added to it so they can call it "ceramic". If the coating is shiny, offered in various colors or is advertised with a heat rating, you can be certain you are dealing with a paint based material. With the low friction coatings, many companies apply Teflon to internal engine parts and actually promote that fact despite the fact Teflon is terrible for that type of application. Some people do apply graphite or moly disulfide but I am not aware of any that offer the complete blends that we do where we take the best of all the lubricating materials and the best binders and blend them together for the ideal low friction coatings.
* How are your coatings applied?
Most of the ceramics would start out as a solid material, be fed through a gun which makes the ceramic molten and atomized and the molten ceramic is applied directly to the substrate. It is a highly effective way to apply the materials without weakening the base metal as the base metal would rarely see temperatures over about 200 degrees F because all of the heat takes place inside of the gun, not in the part itself. The heat the part sees is simply a result of it being hit with the molten ceramic particles. This is a critical difference between us and everybody else. The paint based coatings everybody else uses should really be cured at at least 650 degrees to get it to properly bond and that is well above the temperature a piston should see without the constraints of the cylinder walls. It will weaken and soften the aluminum. On a head it is hot enough to loosen valve guides and or seats and could even warp the head.
All of our lubricating coatings would be applied as a liquid and cured but they are formulated well below the temperature where it would weaken the substrate. Cure temperature is another problem with Teflon. To really draw the low friction properties of Teflon out of a coating, it would require a cure in the 500-550 degrees F range which is simply too hot for pistons, bearings, etc.
* How are other's coatings applied?
See above.
* What's Swain Tech's turnaround time?
Typical turn time for internal engine parts is about 1 1/2 weeks give or take a few days. It is closer to 2 weeks give or take a few days for exhaust parts.
* Is there an advantage to using Swain Tech's coating over another company's coating?
Swain Tech was founded by Dan Swain, a ceramic engineer and at the time of our inception, a NASCAR asphalt modified racer. Our coatings were developed by Dan as he used his ceramic engineering education and applied it to his race team. Early versions of the coatings were developed in the early 1970's. In 1973, Dan took his internal engine coatings to NASCAR country and worked with Junior Johnson and other leading crew chiefs to perfect and prove the technology in the demanding Winston Cup series. Once the technology was perfected, Swain Tech Coatings was established.
As the 1980's got under way and Swain Tech gained acceptance of this type of technology, there were companies such as HPC and Jet Hot that came onto the scene. When they first started, those guys would go around to trade shows selling their exhaust coatings as good looking corrosion resistant coatings and they were correct. Over the years we have recommended many people to Jet Hot if they were looking for that shiny look. Where I get disappointed in those companies is somewhere in the late 1980's those same coatings that were formerly sold as corrosion resistant and cosmetic coatings were now being sold as "thermal barrier coatings". In the 1990's we would see basically a copy of our advertisement, but with their names on it claiming a slightly higher radiant heat reduction than what we advertised. This disappointed us because both of those companies really do have good cosmetic coatings and those coatings are excellent for show cars, motorcycles or other applications where the shiny looks is the primary function of the coating. However, there is no way their thin, paint based exhaust coating can come anywhere near the heat insulation of our pure, thick ceramic exhaust coating. Those companies do have a good looking product that will offer some thermal insulation, but it really is a looks first coating.
What makes Swain different is that we are a true engineering company that offers hundreds of different coatings to help solve the problems of heat, friction, wear and corrosion. We do have our racing division where we deal with pistons, heads, bearings, headers, etc., but the bigger part of our company is our industrial division. We have ceramics, metals, carbides, polymers, organic, platings, metal conversions and many other techniques. There are other companies that talk about "industrial" coatings but when you look at what they are doing, they are using the same coating 3 or 4 coatings for every application that comes in their shop. We look at the specific challenge and then use our vast coating choices to engineer a specific answer for a specific need.
Another thing that makes us different is we have stayed with one location for our work instead of setting up regional shops. Though this may add a day or two in shipping, it has allowed us to maintain the critical quality control needed on precision high performance engine and exhaust parts. Cleaning, surface preparation and masking are almost as critical as the materials and application techniques used. We (the owners) feel strongly we want to be right here overseeing everything to be sure quality is where it needs to be. Ask around and you will find those companies that tried to regionalize have really struggled with quality. The work is tedious and painstaking and we feel it is critical that we are right here and part of the process to be sure we ship parts with the quality they should be.
* With turbo exhaust manifolds is it recommend to coat the inside, outside or both?
This question along with "What is the heat range of your coating" are two of the questions that came about due to the companies offering the paint based coatings. The most critical step in making a coating bond is applying a good abrasive blast to the substrate. This thoroughly cleans the surface and increases the surface area of the substrate to improve adhesion. There is no possible way to blast all the way through a header tube, a manifold, or a turbo housing. If that area cannot be blasted, there is no possible way a coating will permanently bond to the substrate.
The people like HPC and Jet Hot can get away with coating the inside because their coatings are based on very thin paint based materials. When the part comes back, it will look like it has a nice coating inside. However, since the inside cannot be thoroughly blasted there is no possible way the coating will actually stay bonded for much of any period of time. When those coatings come free, they are so thin (about .001" thick) they are not likely to damage turbo parts. I believe the two reasons those companies coat the inside are 1) it does look when the part comes back freshly coated in a shiny paint and 2) it is so much easier to coat all over the part than it is to take the time to mask off the inside to protect the internal surfaces from the blast to prep the part and the coating that is applied to the part.
Because we are applying a true ceramic, not a paint, we do not have the luxury of not taking the time to mask the part. Our ceramic is applied about .015" thick vs. .001" for the paint based stuff everybody else offers. There simply is not enough room for the coating in a turbo housing and the coating is thick and hard enough that it would likely damage the turbo if it came off from the inside of a turbo header or manifold. If a header or manifold is naturally aspirated, we will coat the inside as deep as possible, but any coating on the inside of a header or manifold will only be bonded about as deep as you eye can see and cannot wrap around corners or bends. When we can coat the inside of a naturally aspirated exhaust, it will offer some benefit but it will be a marginal gain because so little of the area will have a permanently bonded coating. What your eye can see would be coated and we could be like everybody else and claim it is "internally" coated, but we would be misleading to claim that.
* Is it true coating the inside of a turbo exhaust manifold creates an exogenric reaction of the heat (keeping the exhaust heat from radiating throughout the surface of the metal)?
Because so little of a manifold will have coating permanently bonded it is almost a moot point. Those applying the paint based coatings not only would have little permanently bonded coating, but they would have a coating that is so thin and has so little ceramic in it that it makes little difference in heat transfer.
* Is it true coating the outside of a turbo exhaust manifold helps keep the heat inside the turbo exhaust manifold?
The primary purpose of our coating is to keep heat inside of exhaust parts to keep exhaust gas velocities high and underhood temperatures low. This does keep more heat in the parts, but it will also move that heat more quickly through the parts. Also, the ceramic will spread the heat on the part much more evenly than a bare part would see heat distribution. This means areas that would typically be a hot or weak spot like the first bend coming off the exhaust port, a weld or collector area would actually have less stress on the base metal after it is coated, not more even though there will be higher temperatures inside the part.
The most challenging environment for exhaust parts that we see are not the latest turbo set ups, they are the vintage motor homes running big block V-8's. These motor homes have extremely limited air flow for cooling and are under heavy load at all times. It is unusual for these manifolds and headers to not be glowing red hot. We have a cult following with these folks because our coating is the only thing they have found that will reduce the heat cracking of their manifolds that occurs due to the extreme heat. We are only coating the outside of these manifolds and it typically extends the life from about 3,000 miles to 20,000 miles on their exhaust parts.
* Do coatings fade or flake off?
It would be unusual for an exhaust coating to flake off, but it could happen if the base metal expands more than what the coating can expand. That is why we chuckle when we are asked about "temperature ratings" for our coatings. Temperature ratings came from the paint based folks because their paint based materials would literally burn off at relatively low temperature for a performance exhaust and they put temperature ratings on them to help give them an out if somebody burned the coating off. With a true ceramic like we apply, the melting point is over 3,000 degrees F, but we do not advertise that because it does not mean anything practically to users of the coating. Does that mean somebody can run EGT's of 3,000 degrees? Can any motor be anything other than a solid chunk of aluminum an metal if it is close to 3,000 degrees?
The truth is if an exhaust part is at or close to the point where it glows it is possible that the outermost layer of our multi layer coating can fracture because it simply cannot expand and contract as much as the base metal does when it starts to glow. Two things to remember here are 1) if it is hot enough to fracture our outermost layer of coating, any other material would have been long gone by that time, including wraps and 2) Even if the outermost layer was fractured, there is still about .010" of bonding and a mixture of bonding coating and ceramic that is still on the part offering thermal insulation superior to any other coating.
It is unusual for any cracking or peeling to occur, but in the case where the parts glow, you can see some of that occur on the outermost layer of even our coating. Those who have tried coatings can attest to the fact that the paint based coatings would literally be gone in that type of situation and our coating could fracture, but would still have plenty of good insulating material left.
* Would coating the inside of a turbocharger's turbine housing throw off tolerances?
See above.
* What are your coatings made out of?
Our thermal barrier coatings would be ceramic based as there is no better coating material for controlling heat than ceramics. The ceramics used on internal engine parts are thin enough that clearance provisions do not need to be made and are formulated to act as highly effective thermal barriers, but no too good because our best insulating materials would actually hold too much heat in the combustion chamber surfaces (top of piston, combustion chamber and valve faces) and cause
detonation. Our TBC and Gold Coat that is used on internal engine parts will be excellent thermal barriers and actually reduce instead of encouraging detonation because they are specifically formulated for internal engine use. Internal engine thermal barriers are applied about .002-.003" thick.
Our TBC-EX exhaust coating is put on in three distinct steps. First an good insulating metal bond coat is applied to provide some heat insulation and a tenacious bond to the base metal. Next a blend of ceramic and bond coat is applied to improve the thermal insulation of the coating and to help match the expansion rate of the ceramic to the base metal. Finally a top coating of highly pure ceramic is applied to offer the best insulating thermal barrier coating. Because there are no thickness limitations on exhaust coatings, we apply a coating about .015" thick.
There are different low friction/lubricating coatings that we use on different parts. All would have a high percentage of molybdenum disulfide. Most will also have a poly matrix, lubricating and corrosion inhibiting pigments, epoxies and some even have some solvents. None would have Teflon as it is the worst thing to apply to internal engine parts. We use a fair amount of Teflon on industrial parts, but never on internal engine parts because it moves or creeps away when Teflon is
under load and it actually sheds, not attracting oil so it would be a poor choice for piston skirts, bearings, valve springs, etc. where you want to attract, not shed oil with the coating and you need the coating to be durable under load.
* What are the other's coatings made out of?
When it comes to exhaust coatings, everybody else applies high temperature paints that probably have some ceramic added to it so they can call it "ceramic". If the coating is shiny, offered in various colors or is advertised with a heat rating, you can be certain you are dealing with a paint based material. With the low friction coatings, many companies apply Teflon to internal engine parts and actually promote that fact despite the fact Teflon is terrible for that type of application. Some people do apply graphite or moly disulfide but I am not aware of any that offer the complete blends that we do where we take the best of all the lubricating materials and the best binders and blend them together for the ideal low friction coatings.
* How are your coatings applied?
Most of the ceramics would start out as a solid material, be fed through a gun which makes the ceramic molten and atomized and the molten ceramic is applied directly to the substrate. It is a highly effective way to apply the materials without weakening the base metal as the base metal would rarely see temperatures over about 200 degrees F because all of the heat takes place inside of the gun, not in the part itself. The heat the part sees is simply a result of it being hit with the molten ceramic particles. This is a critical difference between us and everybody else. The paint based coatings everybody else uses should really be cured at at least 650 degrees to get it to properly bond and that is well above the temperature a piston should see without the constraints of the cylinder walls. It will weaken and soften the aluminum. On a head it is hot enough to loosen valve guides and or seats and could even warp the head.
All of our lubricating coatings would be applied as a liquid and cured but they are formulated well below the temperature where it would weaken the substrate. Cure temperature is another problem with Teflon. To really draw the low friction properties of Teflon out of a coating, it would require a cure in the 500-550 degrees F range which is simply too hot for pistons, bearings, etc.
* How are other's coatings applied?
See above.
09-21-2006, 08:56 PM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Laserjock »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mini - thread jack alert!!!
1158, is the insides of the manifold and DP also coated?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They do not coat the inside of the mani, unless you ask for it and even then they may not be able to do it. They claim coating the inside is not needed. They also state that on turbo manis/housings there is a slight chance some of the coating could flake off and ruin the blades. I don't see how this stuff could flake off, it's tough, but I guess the inside of the mani/housing it is a lot more difficult to coat.
I didn't paint my stuff, I used high temp clear, so it will hopefully be easy to clean off. You can't see it in the pics, but it is semi metallic white, looks real good. If I need more coating done, I will be using them.
1158, is the insides of the manifold and DP also coated?</TD></TR></TABLE>
They do not coat the inside of the mani, unless you ask for it and even then they may not be able to do it. They claim coating the inside is not needed. They also state that on turbo manis/housings there is a slight chance some of the coating could flake off and ruin the blades. I don't see how this stuff could flake off, it's tough, but I guess the inside of the mani/housing it is a lot more difficult to coat.
I didn't paint my stuff, I used high temp clear, so it will hopefully be easy to clean off. You can't see it in the pics, but it is semi metallic white, looks real good. If I need more coating done, I will be using them.
10-17-2006, 05:39 AM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (1158)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1158 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I paid $300 for the following, but that included shipping back to me which was between $70 and $80 (at least that's what it cost me to ship it to them).
I think they did a damn good job. The coating is tough too, I had to grind some off for bolt clearance and it destroyed multiple dremel bits before I finally got all of it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that whats considered white lightning? What about the intake side of the turbo? Why doesnt anyone do that? What kind of spraypaint could you use that would hold up to the hight temp for these parts? thanks
Modified by HT Chaplain at 9:04 AM 10/17/2006
Modified by HT Chaplain at 9:07 AM 10/17/2006
I think they did a damn good job. The coating is tough too, I had to grind some off for bolt clearance and it destroyed multiple dremel bits before I finally got all of it off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Is that whats considered white lightning? What about the intake side of the turbo? Why doesnt anyone do that? What kind of spraypaint could you use that would hold up to the hight temp for these parts? thanks
Modified by HT Chaplain at 9:04 AM 10/17/2006
Modified by HT Chaplain at 9:07 AM 10/17/2006
10-17-2006, 07:37 AM
#20
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Re: (HT Chaplain)
no point in doing the compressor housing.
if youcoat it with a thermal coating, it will just retain heat from the chra in the housing and heat up the charge air even more
on my turbos i have the chra thermal coated and i just powder coat the compressor housing
if youcoat it with a thermal coating, it will just retain heat from the chra in the housing and heat up the charge air even more
on my turbos i have the chra thermal coated and i just powder coat the compressor housing
10-17-2006, 07:50 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HT Chaplain »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Is that whats considered white lightning? What about the intake side of the turbo? Why doesnt anyone do that? What kind of spraypaint could you use that would hold up to the hight temp for these parts? thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's the white lightning. I had the comp housing powder coated, you can see it in the pic below.
Is that whats considered white lightning? What about the intake side of the turbo? Why doesnt anyone do that? What kind of spraypaint could you use that would hold up to the hight temp for these parts? thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yeah, that's the white lightning. I had the comp housing powder coated, you can see it in the pic below.
10-17-2006, 07:57 AM
#22
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Re: (1158)
Iused their coatings before on a cast header, turbo housings, and downpipe. My original DP crack from to much heat being retained inside...not SS though. New downpipe is SS and I left it alone.
The exhaust side of my turbo as started to peel off the coating in certain areas...also the same is to be said about the coating on the exhaust manifold...the coating has stated to peel off in certain areas.
The coating is easily about 5-6 years old though...so that would be my 2 cents.
Cheers
The exhaust side of my turbo as started to peel off the coating in certain areas...also the same is to be said about the coating on the exhaust manifold...the coating has stated to peel off in certain areas.
The coating is easily about 5-6 years old though...so that would be my 2 cents.
Cheers
10-17-2006, 09:05 AM
#23
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Re: (1158)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1158 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I paid $300 for the following, but that included shipping back to me which was between $70 and $80 (at least that's what it cost me to ship it to them).
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i called yesterday to get a price quote, they told me it would be between 345 and 395 without shipping.
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i called yesterday to get a price quote, they told me it would be between 345 and 395 without shipping.
10-17-2006, 09:41 AM
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ill bring it in and see if i can get a lower estimate. My stuff doesnt have any of the bells and wistles he has (no dump tube, no external wg flange)