Alright guys i have a very weird problem.

First let me give you a little background about my set up.

I have a 2k gsr that was converted to obd1 and ran crome for 2 years. I was boosted on 7 psi and cracked a ringland after 2 years.

Than fast forward to now. I pulled the motor and rebuilt it with new skunk2 valves, type r valve train, wiseco pistons and eagle rods.

Droped the motor back in and changed the set up to

SLS top mount with 3 inch down
HP racing intake mani with gsr TB.
T3to4e 57 trim, 63 ar
750 rc injectors
gm 3 bar map sensor.


Started it up ran fine. Looking at my wideband it runs 14.5-14.8 at idle for about 30 seconds than drops down to 9.6! and just stays there. Might get betting richer but thats as low as my wideband goes. When driving the car as soon as it hits boost no mater what it just dies. And than on decel it gets super rich down in the 12's. First thot was change the map sensor. That did not help. So i thot maybe some how my wiring got fucked up i went all the way to changing the with a new and uncut harness and tried a stock known working map sensor. Still does the same thing. I have changed the wiring, the map, the tps, extensively looked for shorted out wires.

I am using crome to tune and i cant even get uber to start my car.

Yes i have done the obvious things like change the map to 3 bar and back to stock in crome.

I have tried burning many chips and using tons of uploads on my ostrich.


What do you guys think it could be?

 

Sounds like your O2 sensor took a ****, but the ecu for whatever reason didn't toss a code. My coupe's CEL lightbulb was actually burnt out when I bought it. The ecu reads directly from the maps (ignors O2 readings) when the o2 is still heating up (first ~30 seconds) and when the engine sees high loads, meaning WOT.

It could also be the advanced tables somehow getting corrupted, so that once it heats up enough, it drasticly alters the AFR.

I would suspect the IAT/o2/tps/MAP sensors, the crome chip (reburn it), but do it one at a time. The 'dies under boost' thing would point more to a MAP that stays at 0psi voltage, which would give too much gas & not enough timing under partial throttle, and not enough gas & too much timing under boost. Try changing ecu's or datalog to see what readings the ecu reports for O2, MAP, TPS, and IAT readings. A sensor can be good, but a cut or shorted wire will mess things up.

 

Could be a bad coolant temp sensor. If it thinks the cards cold its going dump more fuel.

 

BUMP for you. I've been having the same problem with my car. My car idles at 11.2 AFR at idle steady. It never dies and is fine at boost. I have AEM EMS. It was tuned at DRT by Ralphy and he couldn't fix it. His reply to me "you gotta remember, you don't have a street car anymore"

Another tner told me I have to mees with the AEM.

Sorry to thread jack

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by HiProfile &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like your O2 sensor took a ****, but the ecu for whatever reason didn't toss a code. My coupe's CEL lightbulb was actually burnt out when I bought it. The ecu reads directly from the maps (ignors O2 readings) when the o2 is still heating up (first ~30 seconds) and when the engine sees high loads, meaning WOT.

It could also be the advanced tables somehow getting corrupted, so that once it heats up enough, it drasticly alters the AFR.

I would suspect the IAT/o2/tps/MAP sensors, the crome chip (reburn it), but do it one at a time. The 'dies under boost' thing would point more to a MAP that stays at 0psi voltage, which would give too much gas & not enough timing under partial throttle, and not enough gas & too much timing under boost. Try changing ecu's or datalog to see what readings the ecu reports for O2, MAP, TPS, and IAT readings. A sensor can be good, but a cut or shorted wire will mess things up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yea i tried 3 map sensors now, just switched the TB with a known working tps, gonna try a new 02 tomorrow.

just also tried a new ecu with a new jumper harness.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1TurboHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Could be a bad coolant temp sensor. If it thinks the cards cold its going dump more fuel.</TD></TR></TABLE>


good idea i am gonna try that!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TriniRacer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BUMP for you. I've been having the same problem with my car. My car idles at 11.2 AFR at idle steady. It never dies and is fine at boost. I have AEM EMS. It was tuned at DRT by Ralphy and he couldn't fix it. His reply to me "you gotta remember, you don't have a street car anymore"

Another tner told me I have to mees with the AEM.

Sorry to thread jack</TD></TR></TABLE>

hopefully we can find a fix than!


thanks everyone so far.

 

also when i data log i get super weird readings from everything.

thats what has me lost the most.

my iat was saying like -80 and my map was reading boost all at idle.

and my tps was reading like 14.

i dont see why my ecu is flipping out so much,

 

I'd say that either your ecu has a problem, or the software sucks. Either way, you need tuning at a minimum. The data acq is showing some pretty screwed up numbers, so you may want to check your harness as well, including all grounds.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by locash &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd say that either your ecu has a problem, or the software sucks. Either way, you need tuning at a minimum. The data acq is showing some pretty screwed up numbers, so you may want to check your harness as well, including all grounds.

</TD></TR></TABLE>


i want to bring it down to you asap but i am afraid its going to be acting up for you.

i have a brand new wire harness on the motor and re did all my grounds.

i would make a app with you but i am almost certin you are going to turn me away.

 

also joe i tried using deedubs ecu today and it did the same exact thing. i even went to trying his map sensor and converter harness.

 

I would try making another program, maybe something is being done wrong? I'll be quitting my day job soon, so I'll have more time to trace down these problems if need be..

 

alright guys i have a small updtate. i dont throw a check engine light but if i put a jumper in it is showing me throwing code 20 (eld). so i think that might have something to do with my readings. but why would it only show the code when jumped. there is no check engine light at all.

 

Because its not a hard fault.

 

do you have the tps plugged into the map.. and map into tps?

make sure all the plugs are in the right spot..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by havok hybrid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">do you have the tps plugged into the map.. and map into tps?

make sure all the plugs are in the right spot.. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yes sir. they are in the right spot.

 

alright i am almost positive it has something to do with the ELD.

reasons being is a have a whole new wiring harness in the engine bay AND a KNOWN WORKING FUSE BOX.

and trying 2 ecu's i still throw that code.

any thots?


thanks guys

 

ELD code is gone.

still having problems.

it seems as if the car thinks its in boost when at idle.

if i lean out the boost tables when at idle the car will idle fine. :/ and yes the map is wired 100% correct.

 

Turn the KEY to the ON position...measure the voltage of the 3 MAP sensor wires with the ECU plugged in.

Should be roughly 0v (ground) , 5v (reference) and 2.8 v (signal) &lt;-- This is for a stock MAP sensor.

If the ground signal is higher than 0, there is a problem with your grounds.

If there is more than 5 volts in your reference signal...there is either a problem with your ECU, your ECUs voltage supply or the ECU grounds. There is also a possibility of a crossed wire or two somewhere in there.

Common Honda MAP Wire Colors
+5v ----------- Yellow/Red
Ground --------Green
Signal ---------White

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Turn the KEY to the ON position...measure the voltage of the 3 MAP sensor wires with the ECU plugged in.

Should be roughly 0v (ground) , 5v (reference) and 2.8 v (signal) &lt;-- This is for a stock MAP sensor.

If the ground signal is higher than 0, there is a problem with your grounds.

If there is more than 5 volts in your reference signal...there is either a problem with your ECU, your ECUs voltage supply or the ECU grounds. There is also a possibility of a crossed wire or two somewhere in there.

Common Honda MAP Wire Colors
+5v ----------- Yellow/Red
Ground --------Green
Signal ---------White

</TD></TR></TABLE>


ok just did some checks.

i have 5.06 volts at yellow/red.

if i check the ground to the battery ground i get .27 volts.

now here is the one that is weird.

the map signal wire gets 4.85 volts even with no map sensor plugged in.

with my 3 bar map sensor i read 2.673 volts at 0

and than i read 2.85 volts at -19




Modified by advert at 7:57 PM 3/16/2007

 

alright another small update. i dont think this is right.

when i took my multimeter i set it to continuity i set one prob to the ground of the map and than i checked to see if i made a conection with the ground of the battery. i did. than for the hell of it i check the positive termanal. and it did!! so that makes belive that there is a short somewhere but i have no idea how are where it could be.

 

update again.

it is no longer showing continuity with the ground and positive, it stoped doing it the next day and has not done it again.

it is still showing with the key on .28 volts

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by advert &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">update again.

it is no longer showing continuity with the ground and positive, it stoped doing it the next day and has not done it again.

it is still showing with the key on .28 volts</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would honestly just run wires straight from the ECU and bypass your harness for simplicity

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xenocron &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would honestly just run wires straight from the ECU and bypass your harness for simplicity</TD></TR></TABLE>

planing on it tomorrow.

also should the ecu be putting out a small amount of voltage from SG1?

 

that small amount wouldnt worry me, but it may indicate a slight ground issue...but it certainly wouldnt cause the other oddities you see (i wouldnt think)