I've been contemplating for the past month about building my h22 turbo eg coupe swap as an h23 vtec by swapping in a crank from an h23/f22. I know I'll have to use different rods but i was planning on resleeving the engine anyways using forged pistons and new rods anyways. In my build I am giong to use:
darton sleeves
wiseco 8.5:1 or cp 9:1 pistons
manley rods
precision sc61 turbo.

S If i have to purchase these parts anyways the only extra cost of stroking this out to a 2.3 or larger would be the cost of the crank and possibly boring it out further to a 2.4.

What do you guys think?

 

the h22's already make enough torque.I see traction issues in ur futer.

But its cool.

 

no other thoughts?
I've searched and found minimal on the h23/vtec swap and especially considering a h24 vtec turbo engine. I wanted some expert opinions. Like would the cylinders be strong enough for 15-25 psi if it were to be bored out? if tuned by a professional? I figured it would help the stroke to bore ratio if it were bored out? and of course there is little that can be doen about the rod/stroke ratio but what if the the crank were lightened? . Would people lend themselves more toward doing this if? Com'on I would like some thoughts... pls Thanks

 

uh feel free to chime in fellow members.... but you can't boost stock h series sleeves because they are FRM and they will take a **** on you above like 6 PSI. But the F series are cast iron! f23 block + H22 head + boost = torque monster with boost powerband?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uh feel free to chime in fellow members.... but you can't boost stock h series sleeves because they are FRM and they will take a **** on you above like 6 PSI. But the F series are cast iron! f23 block + H22 head + boost = torque monster with boost powerband? </TD></TR></TABLE>

read above... i mentioned that i am resleeving this engine. thanks for the input.

 

what a dumbass

 

the only thing i wouldn't want is such a short powerband...with all that torque it will be fun, but you need a turbo that can make big power, and spool very fast also.

i say just build what ya got

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IndySporty &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uh feel free to chime in fellow members.... but you can't boost stock h series sleeves because they are FRM and they will take a **** on you above like 6 PSI. </TD></TR></TABLE>

find me someone who has managed to crack their FRM sleeves... its the pistons and rings that are horribly weak not the sleeves. Their incompatibility to 99% of aftermarket pistons is what makes the H series sleeves not boost-friendly.

 

well i know the rod/stroke ratio would be terrible so what would be an appropriate red line for an engine like this? 89 mm bore and 95 mm stroke, h23 rods, stock deck height. Is there anything that could be done to help this redline be close to that of a stock h22 or even betternot including NOT adding a deck plate? hence: upgrading the valvetrain? crank improvements (balancing & lightening)? same with other rotaing parts? Thanks for the ideas

And about the turbo.. would there be a turbo that could build the power within this shorter duration... (i'm not learned good on understandiing turbos and their specs...)

 

Get some good rods AKA not the stock accord rods haha, Rods are what connects the pistons and crankshaft, not the R/s ratio, but thats my 2 cents about Strokin unless your road racing then thats a different storry

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBRJosh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Get some good rods AKA not the stock accord rods haha, Rods are what connects the pistons and crankshaft, not the R/s ratio, but thats my 2 cents about Strokin unless your road racing then thats a different storry </TD></TR></TABLE>

once again if you read above I am replacing the stock rods w/ forged rods from manley. And no the rods don't affect the r/s (rod to stroke ratio) but if i change the crank to the f22/h23 crank I will have to change the rods therefore changing the rod/stroke ratio! it will change from something like: h22 r/s= 1.58:1 to h23 r/s = 1.49:1. you typically want to be around 1.75:1

 

Yea thats not that big of a change, people run stroked b16swith LS cranks with a 1.40 R/S Ratio or a Ls or gsr block with a 95mm spinning to 9k+ so put those Manleys in and Send it

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBRJosh &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yea thats not that big of a change, people run stroked b16swith LS cranks with a 1.40 R/S Ratio or a Ls or gsr block with a 95mm spinning to 9k+ so put those Manleys in and Send it </TD></TR></TABLE>

good point. I never did a lot of research into the b series engines and never knew or realized that the b18b/b20 engine had that bad of a r/s ratio. Anybody else agree w/ this guy?
If I did follow what this guys says would the sc61 still be ok for the build and what should be the limit i should take it when revving on it? And are there things I can do to help the revability of this engine apart from custom pistons deck plate and rods?

 

Im no expert by nomeans but, as long as your sleeved and have good rods the 95mm wont be a problem maybe a 105mm stroke without a deckplate would, but shouldnt have any probelms seeing 8k