Pasghetti

Im going to be putting together a simple GSR block for boost (obviously) and im wondering whats the strength of the factory rods? I was going to go with 81.5mm 10:1 comp. SRP pistons and mount them on the factory rods. Basically using the factory rotating assembly as well with the help of ARP rod bolts and ACL race rod and main bearings. Or should i just get Eagle rods as well? Im shooting for around 350-400whp....

Any opinions or experiences would be cool or just help in general.

Thanks H-T!!!!!

0dancing_ninja

Why spend money on pistons if you're not going to buy rods? Might as well leave it stock.... What kind of power do you want to make?

Pasghetti

350-400whp hopefully!

Pasghetti

I figured going to a forged piston to avoid my old experience with melting my old GSR pistons.

0dancing_ninja

Define melt.......


Sounds like more of a tuning issue, extended abuse or set-up possibly? What set-up are you running?

K20egcw

Stock rods and pistons are good to roughly 500hp, with a good tune.

Pompiuses

That depends entirely how you use the car. Drag racing/street, yes for a while. Circuit racing, no.

Pasghetti

cyl. # 3 just melted a little creating a mess on the cylinder wall...

not worth the risk....
Daily and occasionally track time @ local events.

sneakysneaky

Depends on how much you are spending on bottom ends.
Its getting hard to find LS bottom ends for 200 anymore.
But if you are getting 6 months of service per motor you
would pay for the pistons and rods in 2 years. Just alot
less man hours. How much is your time worth? Is dependabilty
an important thing? I have broken cylinder walls at those power
levels, but im hard on cars.

EdSales

10:1 Pistons for a Boost Build?

sneakysneaky

10:1 are fine for a boosted daily driver.
Havent you ever seen a stock block boosted
ITR.

EdSales

I've seen a boosted stock block, going to boost my stock B16A which is at 10.2 or 10.5, but we aren't talking about a Stock Block. If your going to spend the money on pistons for a Boost Build, wouldn't it be smart to use your money on Pistons that would better compliment your build?

Just saying.

sneakysneaky

Thats kind of what I was getting at. Its better to blow up a engine or two before
realizing you either want to build a track cr and get a DD or just stay with
a small turbo and a stock block. If your going to get rods and pistons just get
the block sleeved as well. and so on. If you have a daily driver dont go to wild
unless you have enough money for you to not ask ppl on HT and just buy all
the parts you can imagine.

AlexDphoto

why is it people automatically think that 10:1 or even 11:0 is horrible for boost?

If your tuner can make it work, i suggest you find a new tuner. high compression boost builds are the ****. People boost stock s2000's with stock head gaskets with no issues and those are 11:5:1 motors.

Honestly 10:1 is fine. I suggest new rods if youre cracking open the motor. No point in doing all the work and limiting yourself with stock rods.

Pasghetti

I know tons of people on High comp. boost set-ups. I was just asking about rod strength...

I contemplated running my daily driver in True Street this year so i took it to the track last night to do some test passes on relatively low boost. Here are some pics and results...

85x87.2 gsr block
cp 11.8 to 1 pistons
eagle rods
ported b16 head
rev valvetrain
skunk2 pro 1 cams
victorx intake manifold
billet 62/62 turbo with .68 a/r housing
880cc injectors....switching to ID 1000 tomorrow
single intake 255 pump modified....adding an inline 255 tomorrow
hondata s300 with boost control
q16
stock ignition
stock axles
single disk clutch
type r trans.....FML
2400lbs with me in it

first pass was a 10.6@131 riding the limiter in 4th with a 9k limiter
second pass was a 10.3@137 riding the limiter again with a 9800 limiter

1.69 60'
6.89 @ 111 mph 1/8
10.3@137 mph 1/4

going back tomorrow night with a gsr trans, twin disk, traction bar

616hp on 18.5 psi.. no boost ramping in this graph cause the tires wouldnt hook

K20egcw

To each his own, Ive seen quite a few high 400 low 500hp stock motors (minus cams, they were usually CTR or ITR, but still OEM) turbo cars to know that they can handle more then some people think. Its really all in the tune, if you have a shitty tuner, then dont expect your car to put good numbers up and last.

Pasghetti

So would there be an problems mounting forged pistons on the stock rods?

rich7777

If anythink mate i would of done this the other way around. Forged rods and stock piston. The rods are the weakest part...

Your pistons melting was down to the tune, it was probably running to lean...

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

For 300 bucks put eagles in the damn thing and be done with it with a proper compression ratio to be safe for pump gas and bigger power. No such hing as cheap and reliable when you want to start cranking out bigger numbers

K20egcw

The first thing that usually gives out on the motor is the rod bolts, so if you do go with stock rods make sure you at least get some ARP rod bolts.

boostedeg302

Im not sure why so many people on this forum are spreading misleading info about stock rods being the weak part of an ls engine. The weak part is the ringlands on the pistons. You can avoid this with a good tune but chances are if something is gonna break, its gonna be the piston. The rods break mainly due to over revving and mostly its the rod bolts that snap. Replace the rod bolts and you are set to rev fairly high. In my opinion, I would throw in a set of eagles. Its a lot of work to build a bottom end so why chance going through it again

spoolin99si

Stock rods, bearings and pistons all day making 350whp. Like boostedeg302 said its the ring lands on the pistons. Ive got 45k on my bottom since last re-ring and hone and its still running strong. About 3 years of daily driving. Throw those pistons on, pop in some ARP rod bolts and your good for 350-400 without a doubt with room to make more power on the same bottom end in the future when you decide your ready.

Pasghetti

So should i go ahead and go with those pistons? Mounting them on the factory rods...Just utilizing ARP rods bolts and some new rod bearings?

New hone ofcourse to 81.5mm?

K20egcw

That would be a nice setup right there, and it would be nice to the wallet as well. Its not really needed to change the rod bearings unless the ones in the motor are out of spec limits.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This thread is just going to get longer and longer with no end in site...It's like watching a bad stand-up comic; you just continue to hope during his act that he'll say SOMETHING funny, only to find that as it ends, you just wish you were able to get those few minutes of your life that he took from you back.