VTEC_PRODUCTION

ok well i hear this and that about going down a temp in ngk plugs but can i run high boost and gap my plugs on a different brand? can i use bosch platinums or an iridium plug or just a regular spark plug? i mean what is the difference between this and that...and what is the best thing i can do with my high boost rig?

Silverbeast

BKR8EIX #8 Stock# 2668
BKR9EIX #9 Stock# 2669
R6601-10 #10 Stock# 4017

VTEC_PRODUCTION

ok well the -8's that you are refferring to how can i get my hands on some of those>? then to i gap them to spec and im good to go?

boostedcivicsir

hey ryan i had an ignition issue last year and called ngk because i was chasing my tail, they recomended the 2668's to me and the problem went away. thats why i run them, but we shall see what this engine likes, i have them and what ever evans has he hee..

to the original poster, i have always said this,
german plugs belong in german cars.

VTEC_PRODUCTION

so mr boosted what should i get? im running away with more than 400 hp

Silverbeast

resistor vs. non resistor plug... seems to be some sort of issue with RF noise and EMS'.

Let me grab the other part numbers.

4554 = 8s
5238 = 9's

I dont have any 7s in stock or i would grab that number for you as well.

(R5671A-8,9,10)

boostedcivicsir

ok how high of boost and what do you have for an ignition system?

what problems are you having and what plugs are you using and what gap?

for ex, using 2668's gapped at .020 with a 6al and a blaster ss coil. i know but thats all i can afford right now.

what are you using for ems? if it is a honda ecu it needs to be a resistor plug also.

Silverbeast

Car has seen nothing but pump gas latley and it made 480/335 on about 15psi on the 8's. Stock ignition system.... tried to use a digital 6 and blaster coil and had too much break up. We went back to stock and it made plenty of clean pulls.

I got the 1st set of part numbers from Hondata's latest post in their forums about the S300 and RF from plugs.

I have ran the 4554's for 2 years with stock ignition and it has been perfect. I have had the S200b and then a S300.

http://www.ngk.com/glossaryImage.asp?imgID=195

This shows them to be non-resistor, but weird i havent seen any issues myself.


Modified by Silverbeast at 11:54 PM 7/24/2007

boostedcivicsir

i dont know if they have heard of that problem, when i talked to john there, he said x hp and x boost needs x plug.
i heeded his word and problem went away.

Topdawgg

I ran Champion copper plugs for a couple weeks and was still able to make 442whp on pump with them... no issues...

then I upgraded to NGK BRK7E's and when i went for big numbers, i went with the 8's

Astig

Made 501/370 on C16 and BKR7E, stock ignition system, S200b

iBrandon

NGK 5238

dpetro1

lol the OP is a pretty angry guy. first pistons now spark plugs, take a chill pill bro

arent the 4554 and 5238s non-resistor? cant they cause problems with interference as mentioned above? hondata and ngk are both saying that we should only use resistor plugs in our motors.

and the 2668s and other IX part numbers are iridium. i was always under the impression that copper plugs were better conductors even if they fouled quicker.

RTW DC2R

Im over 400whp on pump and still using 7's BKRE7-11 .020 gap. stock #1283 at Advance. never had a problem and was never told to try a colder range by Evans but I may try a step colder based on NGK recommendation. stock ignition. cheap and get the job done.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by NGK &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Heat range

The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling.

The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter.

An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate racing fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber.

The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for domestic manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For Japanese manufacturers (NGK, Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug.

Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single precalibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage
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