greasemonkee

The fittings are Russells -10, the hose is -10. Why are the backs of the hose ends so big to leave such a gap? They went together tight.

Chris Tune

wow... sorry but wow... thats the most cute worst installed drain line i have ever seen...

seems like whoever did this have never seen a how-to make drain lines... whatever happened to two 45's and a straight shot almost to the pan...

looks like the drain line was soldered to the oil pan before they even put the turbo on the engine

lovey408

off topic a little but i need a oil return line too becuz the one i have now is out of rubber.. where do i get the steel braided one like yours???

greasemonkee

The pan is a Moroso with the bung pre-installed. The Manifold is an Inline pro and the drain outlet on the turbo is nearly level to the bung on the pan. I looked at this for an hour solid trying to figure a better combination. Another 45 will only make it worse. They're pretty close together to begin with.

Thanks for the compliment. I know I suck, but I don't have a warehouse of fittings in the shop here.

rainmanEK

I would not even run that 45 off of the turbo. Try just getting a straight barb fitting for the turbo and the oil pan and just clamping the braided line on.

Try to keep it simple!

Eric

Chris Tune

bleh sorry didnt realized it was a morosso oil pan ... i would have relocated the entry one on the pan and centered it with the one in the turbo... but now u can use a lil shorter hose... that one is angled upwards just before the pan... it will not flow oil correctly

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Can you post a picture of the fittings coming off the CHRA?

I B BANGGIN

the line looks like its a -8an line and not the -10an....i would recheck that!

greasemonkee

BlackBeastEK

thats simple you have -10an fittings with a -8an braided line thats it

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Thats what I thought. You have that the drain fitting (female) with a male to male coupler then your 45* fitting. They make <u>male</u> drain fittings that would eliminate the coupler and would raise the whole line half an inch or more.

Like this from ATP

greasemonkee

Yep I just measured it, I wouldn't have thought they sent me -8 line when I ordered -10

lovey408

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yep I just measured it, I wouldn't have thought they sent me -8 line when I ordered -10


</TD></TR></TABLE>


can i ask where u ordered this from?

Topdawgg

yup, definetly a -8 line... they are suppose to fit snug inside the fitting

TDautowerkes

that line is -8 send us your address ill send u 1 foot of -10 for free + shipping!

I.C.C.

damn hows that for customer service!!!

akira712

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">


</TD></TR></TABLE>

you a aircraft or motorbike mech?

93supercoupe

THATS MY MOTOR!!!

j/k, just get the male fiutting and the right size line and be done with it.

It seems of u twist that 45, it will be a straight shot to the pan.

greasemonkee

Here's the scoop. I sat down and carefully measured the line again to confirm what size it was. The line really is infact a -10 since I measured a round end (not one freshly cut) this time and it measured 5/8" which is 10/16 (or -10). The problem is that those are Russell full flow type hose ends and they require Russel pro flex type hose. I am using a thinner walled teflon hose.

Moral of the story: don't mix hose and hose ends that aren't compatible with each other even if they are the same manufacturer.


Thanks for the hose offer, and I went to aviation maintenance school however you can tell.

TDautowerkes

ok we can send you hose ends foir ss type hose....


those are NOT free....lol

turboteg2nv

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greasemonkee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
and I went to aviation maintenance school however you can tell. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I think locking the bolts on the return line with wire is a good indication

meanEG

i would really try to change the set-up. i wouldnt want toil sittinmg in the line like that. that might back up up to the turbo too.

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turboteg2nv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think locking the bolts on the return line with wire is a good indication </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha just maybe. That's nicely done too.

TunerToys

We manufacture an AN style drainflange as well. Althought the drain flange you currently are using is a fine looking piece , we'll send you one of these for free to help out the slope of your drain line. Should raise it about an inch on the turbo end.



They are available here - AN Drain Flange for T3/T4 at Tuner Toys

Hit us with a PM (from your username - greasemonkee), and we'll send it out at no cost.

You'll need to transfer over your cool safety wire hardware.

Craig


Modified by TunerToys at 12:48 AM 7/17/2007

akira712

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bailhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

haha just maybe. That's nicely done too. </TD></TR></TABLE>

How do you know? that you cant see the other end, if both sides arent twisted and terminated right lockwire is useless.
But yea thats how i knew
&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt;&lt; this guy = avionics tech